Electrical Connections

[GNRi1959]

Is it best to solder any ‘multiple’ looped cables under a baseboard, as opposed to using block connectors? It sure would reduce risk of break in sound power supply from possible frayed cable, wouldn’t it?

[Broithe]

A good soldered connection will generally be a better bet than a screwed one.

It can even be worth tinning multi-strand wire, if you do want to have screwed connections for the occasional disconnection.

With a soldered joint, you do still have the potential for breakage where the solder ends and the multi-strand wire emerges - reasonable support will largely prevent the stress concentration there becoming a real issue.

When I had a proper job, our control cabinets were arranged with large banks of screwed connector blocks, but the connections were not directly to the wire - the ends of the wire had crimped blades attached, to avoid the crushing/cutting of the wire strands that can occur as the screw is tightened.

This sort of thing - the 'hook' on this sort means that you can 'feel' that the full end of the screw is on the blade, not just a bit of it catching the very end of the blade.

Edited November 29, 2021 by Broithe

[GNRi1959]

What I done this morning was tinned the ends of the cables and put the back into their connectors, seems to be fine and I can keep an eye on things. Thanks

[Broithe]

1 hour ago, GNRi1959 said:

What I done this morning was tinned the ends of the cables and put the back into their connectors, seems to be fine and I can keep an eye on things. Thanks

That should be fine. It's probably the best compromise for model rail use.

[GNRi1959]

1 minute ago, Broithe said:

That should be fine. It's probably the best compromise for model rail use.

By the way, I’m using these snap connectors as I find them much better that screw type

[Broithe]

35 minutes ago, GNRi1959 said:

By the way, I’m using these snap connectors as I find them much better that screw type

They will be more than adequate for anything likely to be required on a model rail set-up - and they have the advantage that the wire isn't subject to the turning end of a screw as it is tightened up.

Edited November 29, 2021 by Broithe

[David Holman]

Probably fine for a home layout, but hard soldering every time for me as my layouts regularly get taken apart (well, at least they used to) and put back together again for exhibitions. Am sure it is all this movement that has the potential to cause problems.

 The main ones I've had to deal with were broken solder joints on point tie bars, though there are ways to minimise this. The two worst were firstly a single stray strand causing a layout wide short and shut down and, most recently a dry solder joint on the plug/socket for my hand held controller. Both immensely frustrating as you first need to find where the problem is - though generally easy to fix, as long as you remembered to pack a soldering iron that is. I also once had a wire break on an alignment bolt on the fiddleyard. Unfortunately, I'd only got an 18 watt iron with me and spent 20 minutes gently warming up what seemed like the whole layout in an effort to get the solder to run! Nowadays, always take the 100 watt iron with me...

 Given I have attended over 100 shows, the number of problems has been minimal, but can't help thinking screw joints would increase the chances of something going wrong. A belt and braces approach seems to be best.

 No experience of snap connectors, but again, should be fine for home use. 

[Mayner]

There seems to be several alternatives all of which work the snap connectors seem to have a following in the United States and seem to have been featured in more recent work (less than 25 years ago!)

The most important thing is to twist, tin and solder the ends of the cables whatever type of connector you use.

I use a mixture of screw terminals and tag strips, though I could not get tag strip on a recent visit to the local electronic parts store.

I used terminal blocks on a recent N Gauge but had forgotten what I had used.

Black and red is for DCC Track Power, Blue and Brown DCC Point power, apart from the wire and terminal blocks everything is salvaged from a layout built over 20 years ago in Ireland.

Point control is Tri-ang passing contact point switches connected to a terminal block.

The Lenz  LS 110 Stationary Decoders are due to be removed and points wired direct to the Tri-ang levers as the LS110s are not man enough for working Seep Point motors particularly in pairs in crossovers.

I will use the LS110s with Peco point motors on South Dock with DCC radio remote control through the Throttle, I better finish the wiring on East Dock the layout is falling behind Tony and David 

[GNRi1959]

Nice to read all comments. This is the first layout where I actually spent more time under the baseboards, than above. Previously, in a rush to get some signs of scenic life showing, I lost sight of what was absolutely essential underneath. So, at the moment I’m taking it in stages and find the under-baseboard challenge interesting for a change.

I think, ultimately, when all works well I may replace all temporary Connectors for solder joints. 

[GNRi1959]

Dear friends, I think I have all my point motors in position and almost all wired. The question I have, I am now taking cable from each motor back to the individual switches, so I assume that I cannot loop these, I must feed each point motor from its own switch, makes sense I hope.

[Galteemore]

This may help, Tony - some good wiring diagrams. Do you want some of the motors to throw simultaneously?

 

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwir18ykhcP0AhWZQfEDHWzWBNAQjhx6BAgBEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rmweb.co.uk%2Fcommunity%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F115511-wiring-multiple-point-motors%2F&psig=AOvVaw3EC3RxG3OQJ2-AfHfgnmkt&ust=1638463175358378

Edited December 1, 2021 by Galteemore

[GNRi1959]

I could have one switch operating a paired crossover but I don't mind going separate with each point as there are only 6 in total anyway

[Sven-E]

On 29/11/2021 at 10:59 AM, Broithe said:

It can even be worth tinning multi-strand wire, if you do want to have screwed connections for the occasional disconnection.

This industry practice seems to have changed over the years and not recommended anymore. The problem is possible breakage at the end of the tinning, as you already mentioned for soldering cables together. There is also a potential problem with the tinned copper that it shrinks over time, thus making screw terminal loose. Retighten now and then, just like IKEA furniture.

[Broithe]

44 minutes ago, Sven-E said:

This industry practice seems to have changed over the years and not recommended anymore. The problem is possible breakage at the end of the tinning, as you already mentioned for soldering cables together. There is also a potential problem with the tinned copper that it shrinks over time, thus making screw terminal loose. Retighten now and then, just like IKEA furniture.

There is no perfect solution.

You just need to select one that is adequate for your application.

You can even have corrosion issues, from the junction between dissimilar metals.

 

A lot of us will have suffered from having a screw loose now and then...