Ballasting - Glue and Drop method :)

[BosKonay]

I'm trying a few ballasting methods on Amiens Street, so thought I'd post a few 'how tos'

 

Here is a method I call 'Glue and Drop'

 

1 - Prep your foam/cork underlay and track as normal (I drill for the dropper at this point, etc).

 

2 - Plaster the underlay entirely with copydex / foam tack glue. i use a small glue spreader and 'paint' the foam sides and all under the track. Then lay the track on the glue. I use this opportunity to also add back in any cosmetic sleepers.

 

3 - Dump ballast liberally over the lot, and use a finger / small black of wood to tamp it down.

 

4- Weight the track down so it sets in shape and level

 

Fast forward 24 hours.

 

5 - Remove the weights and use a small hand held or computer vacuum to remove the excess ballast.

 

 

All done

 

PRO:

- It's a one step process, and as I am gluing the track down anyway, it's making laying, ballasting, cosmetic sleep repair all one job

- It's very neat, as ballast will only stick where you plaster the glue - I'm using this method for points, just not applying glue to the moving tie area

- You use a LOT less ballast

 

CON:

- Ballast only sticks to the glue, so you don't get much 'depth' You might want to go over the area again with the traditional dropper method to model fresh ballast or deeper ballast.

 

Any feedback or thoughts let me know!

[Dave]

Looks great, certainly reduces time in laying track and ballast all in one go.

[David]

How long do you have to complete the job before the glue gets too dry?

[Kirley]

A Railway Society in England did tests on the various methods of ballasting some years ago to find which one reduced the noise levels and your suggestion of Copydex plus Woodland scenic foam was found to be most effective. I was going to use it but thought it would be too messy but after seeing your efforts Stephen I’ll give it a try.

[BosKonay]

Using woodlands flex glue, you have about 15-20 minutes before it goes off / too tacky to work with - plenty of time to adjust and tweak the track alignment, slide in cosmetic / replacement ties and pour the ballast over.

 

As you say kirley, the noise reduction properties should also be excellent.

[Guest hidden-agenda]

Looks very tidy and professional.

[BosKonay]

I've done another stretch of flex track, and a single slip this morning.

 

Will take some more snaps in the morning once vacuumed.... am 'quietly terrified' about the slip But had to be tested

[burnthebox]

Talking about ballasting, has anyone seen this guy before, even though he's talking the queen's english, I cannot understand a word, but watching may help when putting down track,

 

http://modelrailwaylayoutsplans.com/the-latest-from-the-talented-dave-2

Edited December 18, 2012 by BosKonay

[BosKonay]

Here is the continuing mainline and a single slip with the same method (carefully ballasted to avoid the moving parts)

 

Edited December 18, 2012 by BosKonay

[Guest hidden-agenda]

Talking about ballasting, has anyone seen this guy before, even though he's talking the queen's english, I cannot understand a word, but watching may help when putting down track,

 

http://modelrailwaylayoutsplans.com/the-latest-from-the-talented-dave-2

 

A Yorkshire man (muck and brass lad and a mug o Tetleys member mind NO SPILLAGE).

[BosKonay]

What I'm liking about this method is that, because the glue is 'under' the track, the ballast only goes where you want it. None sticks to the chairs, rails or top of the ties and, for points, the ballast, once hoovered off, is under the movement.

[RedRich]

The sound deadening effect is vital if the layout is built in the upper part of a house. Copydex when cured dries rubbery, add this to the rubber foam and the rubber cups on the ends of the leveling feet should help eliminate a lot of noise. Of course this doesn't really matter if the layout is in a purpose built shed. It all looks tidy and neat which is down to your method, super stuff.

 

Rich,

[BosKonay]

 

Couple of updated shots

 

A peco long point, looking well, and the final bit of mainline that joins it.

Edited December 19, 2012 by BosKonay

[BosKonay]

Close up of the point

 

[BosKonay]

(Don't mind the visible cables, they will disappear (like the white card) under a liberal spray of track grime and oil stains )

[BosKonay]

Personally, having done this section, I won't be returning to the ballast, brush, wet, drip pva method at all... (other than to touch up areas I've not done yet)

[kevrail]

I have read a lot about the different methods of Ballasting. Diluting PVA etc. I dont dilute just drizzle between rails and on the sides. Whack on the ballast let it dry and brush surplas off with a dry paint brush. Seems to work for me. With the PVA I find less is more.

I do not use any cork under the rails or anything like that because initally I was lazy but like the "Clickty Click" of the trains running on the track.

I am very careful with points and do not use glue at all just let it fall naturally, ensuring the point mechanism is not hindered in any way. If you look at my pics of Kilcoole you can decide for yourself if this is ok.

Just thought I would throw my tuppence worth in.