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Murphy Models 141/181

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Posted

Hi all,

 

yesterday an all new 188 arrived and I could not wait to make the first changes to it. First I had to cut down the bearings for the couplers to allow the bogies to turn with the front closing parts mounted. After that, I looked at the additional parts. Putting in the horns needed a bit of cutting on them, but worked out well. In the package a black mushroom shaped piece of plastic can be found, would anybody please be so glad to tell me where to fit that? Then I opened the case and took a look into it. New questions... I heared about a problem concerning the cab lights when using a "normal" 21 pin decoder. I could not find any cab light LEDs so far. Are they only fitted in the new 071s? Then I took of one of the cab interiors to look after the LEDs for the head lights. In the loco are four of them; one red (SMD), two little white ones (also SMD) (all three for the marker lights) and one really huge one for the two big lamps in the middle of the front (btw: what are they called?) I wanted to replace all white LEDs because I presume in the 1960s no one would have had xenon or LED fitted lights. For the SMD ones this seems to be feasible as they are from the common 0603 shape from which I had ordered a batch for different modelling purposes some weeks ago. The huge one is of a unknown design to me, a square base and a round head. Did anyone already make an attempt to change these LED to more yellowish ones and if so, which ones could be used?

Another question is about the 181s in more modern IR livery. With the model I have two antennas are delivered. Alas i could not find any foto showing where to put them (btw: the above mentioned mushroom shaped thing is orange in this case).

 

Any help is much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Gerhard.

Posted

Bernard,

If you still have the body off, turn it upside down and you ll find 3 markerholes these are a mm so deep they should be two of these holes along the centre and one of to the side, drill these out, the one to one side us were the mushroom goes and the two centre holes are for the larger pieces.

The 141/181's dont have cab lighting, only the 201 and the 071's have.

Posted

Bernard,

If you still have the body off, turn it upside down and you ll find 3 markerholes these are a mm so deep they should be two of these holes along the centre and one of to the side, drill these out, the one to one side us were the mushroom goes and the two centre holes are for the larger pieces.

The 141/181's dont have cab lighting, only the 201 and the 071's have.

Posted

Bernard,

If you still have the body off, turn it upside down and you ll find 3 markerholes these are a mm so deep they should be two of these holes along the centre and one of to the side, drill these out, the one to one side us were the mushroom goes and the two centre holes are for the larger pieces.

The 141/181's dont have cab lighting, only the 201 and the 071's have.

Posted
You don't need to change the LEDs just paint over them with translucent yellow paint and this will give you the same effect

 

Isn’t the simplest suggestion always the best one, thanks for sharing that one Anthony.

Posted
You don't need to change the LEDs just paint over them with translucent yellow paint and this will give you the same effect

 

Hi Anthony,

 

i will try this suggestion first, sounds good!

Posted

Picked up 20 141/181's yesterday

All brand new, have not even been taken out of the box in some cases

Mostly CIE Black and Supertrain liveries

A couple of IR's as well

Drop me a PM if you are looking for any particular number

Posted

I now managed to fix the blueish lights on B 188. As recommended I used yellow colour, but I tried out to use a Schneider permanent marker, thats quite close to an edding marker but another producer. For the big LED that tured out quite well, i coloured the LED itself and the ligh conductor on the LED side. Colouring it also on the other end turned out to become to yellowish, rather like an old french headlight, so I rubbed it away there. For the SMD LEDs I did not come to succes via this method, I instead changed them wich took me some 15 minutes, the longest part of the process being the polarity check.

 

Thanks for your help

 

Gerhard.

Posted
I now managed to fix the blueish lights on B 188. As recommended I used yellow colour, but I tried out to use a Schneider permanent marker, thats quite close to an edding marker but another producer. For the big LED that tured out quite well, i coloured the LED itself and the ligh conductor on the LED side. Colouring it also on the other end turned out to become to yellowish, rather like an old french headlight, so I rubbed it away there. For the SMD LEDs I did not come to succes via this method, I instead changed them wich took me some 15 minutes, the longest part of the process being the polarity check.

 

Thanks for your help

 

Gerhard.

 

 

Any photos? Maybe you could show us what way the polarity goes on the smaller LEDs

Posted
Any photos? Maybe you could show us what way the polarity goes on the smaller LEDs

 

Yes, I thougt this Question would come up :) I will make some photos in the next few days, please forgive me, if it takes a week or even longer, I am fighting with my camara and the artificial light that I need in this time of the year when I come home from work. Last friday I tried to take pictures from the sentinel with its new coupler and real coal, but the camara would not focus on this all black little monster. For details from the Inside of the Baby GM I will take photos when fitting the decoder to another loco; yesterday I read on facebook that the modelshop in belfast got new blank decoders from Zimo so I hope the order of my friend will also be served so I can get my one in two weeks time or so. Some hints for now: When you remove the cabin interior, pay attention to the little rectangular black plates that are put between the light conductors to divide red from white. Losing it causes the light shining trough to the other lenses. Also make shure that the black isolation tape will not fold down when refitting, this would prevent the light from the LEDs getting to the light conductor which means the marker lights would be dark, even if the LEDs are lit. Prevent the tape from getting between the chassis and the cabin case, if otherwise you will have a nasty gap. The polaritiy of the LEDs is marked clearly with + and - on the pcb; you just need to know which side of the new LED is + and which -. In my case on the backside of the LED is a green T-shaped mark that indicates the polarity. I've got a digital multimeter that, if switched to diode test, lightens the LED on a dim level, so I could easily try out in which direction the new LEDs must be mounted on the pcb, comparing the measurement on the old diods on the pcb with the result of the loose new ones. I also will include pictures when opening the other locomotive.

 

Cheers,

 

Gerhard.

Posted
Yes, I thougt this Question would come up :) I will make some photos in the next few days, please forgive me, if it takes a week or even longer, I am fighting with my camara and the artificial light that I need in this time of the year when I come home from work. Last friday I tried to take pictures from the sentinel with its new coupler and real coal, but the camara would not focus on this all black little monster.

 

Take your time - nobody will die for a few days more....

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