joshs workbench

[josh_]

So I decided to make this as a side thing from Connolly shed 

I currently got home and turned my desk into a paint shop

And this was to pimp out these 2 tri ang coaches I had lying around that my mam got me years ago

I picked up a racing green spray from marks and gave it a good smooth coat as Simon told me it was the closest I could get to a CIE green

Surprisingly turned out great as it was first time ever spray painting/detaining a model before 

Came well prepped with the paper stand, goggles and 2 old face masks from Covid but cracked a bit of the plastic which looked bad but worked around it just fine as you see below with the little strips of masking tape

Currently, the paint is drying and will be fitted and then eventually decaled after I spray the roof black and the inside brown as I’m replacing a laminate(well badly attempting)

Hope and love to post all my shenanigans of modelling up here in the future

[josh_]

I do need to work on my lifting as where my desk is it’s quite a dark spot

I’m sketching out an idea of how to tackle this problem as it’s annoying especially dealing like today

I plan to have LEDs on the board of the bedroom circuit above the desk to give me lighting in a better angle to work on as the lil colourful ones are “aesthetic” but downright as they can’t last half an hour before they start to die even with fresh batteries and aren’t bright enough 

[David Holman]

Lighting is indeed important. Aim to have the same on your workbench as you will have on the layout. For LEDs, have found that "cool white" works well.

See that the spellchecker goblin is at work on your thread too (lifting for lighting) - sometimes I wonder what language I'm typing in!

[josh_]

They dried out perfect and i will show my process sunday of me detailing my coaches as i will get some black and brown spraypaint 
Im working with one coach at a time

 

[josh_]

17 hours ago, David Holman said:

Lighting is indeed important. Aim to have the same on your workbench as you will have on the layout. For LEDs, have found that "cool white" works well.

See that the spellchecker goblin is at work on your thread too (lifting for lighting) - sometimes I wonder what language I'm typing in!

Ive LEDS already and i can get them cheap almost anywhere and i would get one like the ones i already have that change colours which can be cool and then have a lamp with a scope to help detail either parts/kits or decals is what i plan or my desk 

Im also been thinking abt getting a proper sturdy desk and chair, for the desk something like an old office desk that i could do up with built in shelves and for the chair ill get either an old office chair or a gaming chair

[josh_]

Apologies for the wait 

Finally got a load of my dads spray cans 

Im gonna go with satin black for the roof but do also have Matt and gloss black using the reference from the RPSIs website seen below 

[josh_]

Some pics during the process 

I like the rough look it comes some realism personally but it does look like rhino skin

[josh_]

Now I’m gonna wait and put on the sides and then find hopefully if I have one a light green marker to do the livery but will print or buy decals 

Mainly I’m saving my money for Dundalk and express points

[josh_]

Yes it had no windows in it and paintwork scuffed a lil due to the bubble wrap

 

Coach 2 now 

[Flying Snail]

It definitely looks at home in that rake. The colours seem a good match. Well done!

[josh_]

Thanks so much all that’s left is the other coach and decals

[josh_]

Did the roof and what I did instead was 

layer of satin black

layer of Matt black

2 layers of satin

whcih turned out better then the first time I did it I’m gonna get some strong sand paper to get that rhino skin off and hopefully it does the job

Did the sides and interior too 

Saw the opportunity and decided why not paint my junior cert woodwork piece 

Its drying out rn done in a Matt black I will paint on some logos and maybe signage onto it for that appeal

Woodwork piece was actually a last min thing I did which didn’t turn out too bad and from what I remember got a good grade 

Worth rooting at the scrap box

[josh_]

Will show the dried out results tomorrow 

But I will sand the rhino skin roof tomorrow 

[Georgeconna]

Good effort but you seem to be layering on the paint way too heavy,.

A few light coats each time to build it up is the way to go. 

Are you using different types of paint as the cracking tends to be caused by acrylics and enamels on top of each other?

This affect looks good.

 

[josh_]

From earlier today 

Had a lil problem but fixed easily 

Paint stuck to the paper causing both layers to rip off 

Earlier this evening 

Both running in my clubs layout (MRSI)

Now gotta do the decals soon when I swing by marks to pick up one or 2 hornby express points 

Before and after of clearing the paper fort for painting 

[josh_]

Uh oh

Any tips gents? The tables mdf and spray paint stained on it was those big Pringle tin size industrial spray cans for your info

[Mol_PMB]

9 hours ago, josh_ said:

Paint stuck to the paper causing both layers to rip off 

I'm delighted to see that you're learning about repainting models, and improving your skills as you go. Starting with a couple of cheap coaches is a great idea as a learning exercise, and they're looking good.

In this case think you're trying to work too fast. The green hasn't properly dried before you have turned the coach side over to do the brown.

Another thing to think about is the preparation of the parts before painting. If you want the paint to stick well, they need to be clean, dry and free of grease, so it's a good idea to clean them first and then let them dry properly.

20 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Good effort but you seem to be layering on the paint way too heavy,.

A few light coats each time to build it up is the way to go. 

I agree with this. You'll get a better finish, and it will dry more quickly, with a series of thin coats. 

Where you're using green to cover red, it would be better to start with a light grey primer, which will neutralise the red colour and help you achieve a good even green colour without the paint having to be very thick.

 

I suspect there's little you can do to remove the paint from the worktop. If the surface is MDF then trying to remove it either by chemicals (e.g. thinners) or mechanically (scraping/sanding) is likely to make things worse.

A couple more thoughts. Think about the order you do the painting. On the coach sides it might have been better to do the brown interior first, then finish with the green exterior which is the most visible.

And you might consider something to hold the parts while painting, even if it's just a couple of matchsticks to keep them clear of the newspaper.

Finally, make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area with those spray paints.

Keep up the good work!

[Georgeconna]

On 6/6/2025 at 11:23 PM, josh_ said:

Uh oh

Any tips gents? The tables mdf and spray paint stained on it was those big Pringle tin size industrial spray cans for your info

Cellulose thinners will move that but not on your cutting mat.

On 7/6/2025 at 8:52 AM, Mol_PMB said:

I'm delighted to see that you're learning about repainting models, and improving your skills as you go. Starting with a couple of cheap coaches is a great idea as a learning exercise, and they're looking good.

In this case think you're trying to work too fast. The green hasn't properly dried before you have turned the coach side over to do the brown.

Another thing to think about is the preparation of the parts before painting. If you want the paint to stick well, they need to be clean, dry and free of grease, so it's a good idea to clean them first and then let them dry properly.

I agree with this. You'll get a better finish, and it will dry more quickly, with a series of thin coats. 

Where you're using green to cover red, it would be better to start with a light grey primer, which will neutralise the red colour and help you achieve a good even green colour without the paint having to be very thick.

 

I suspect there's little you can do to remove the paint from the worktop. If the surface is MDF then trying to remove it either by chemicals (e.g. thinners) or mechanically (scraping/sanding) is likely to make things worse.

A couple more thoughts. Think about the order you do the painting. On the coach sides it might have been better to do the brown interior first, then finish with the green exterior which is the most visible.

And you might consider something to hold the parts while painting, even if it's just a couple of matchsticks to keep them clear of the newspaper.

Finally, make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area with those spray paints.

Keep up the good work!

Good words from the Maestro

[josh_]

On 7/6/2025 at 8:52 AM, Mol_PMB said:

I'm delighted to see that you're learning about repainting models, and improving your skills as you go. Starting with a couple of cheap coaches is a great idea as a learning exercise, and they're looking good.

In this case think you're trying to work too fast. The green hasn't properly dried before you have turned the coach side over to do the brown.

Another thing to think about is the preparation of the parts before painting. If you want the paint to stick well, they need to be clean, dry and free of grease, so it's a good idea to clean them first and then let them dry properly.

I agree with this. You'll get a better finish, and it will dry more quickly, with a series of thin coats. 

Where you're using green to cover red, it would be better to start with a light grey primer, which will neutralise the red colour and help you achieve a good even green colour without the paint having to be very thick.

 

I suspect there's little you can do to remove the paint from the worktop. If the surface is MDF then trying to remove it either by chemicals (e.g. thinners) or mechanically (scraping/sanding) is likely to make things worse.

A couple more thoughts. Think about the order you do the painting. On the coach sides it might have been better to do the brown interior first, then finish with the green exterior which is the most visible.

And you might consider something to hold the parts while painting, even if it's just a couple of matchsticks to keep them clear of the newspaper.

Finally, make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area with those spray paints.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks so much for that reply that made my day

The coaches i initially wanted to sell but had no luck and picked them up one day and thought "they could pull off laminates if i did them up" and then it all started from there

Only problems i faced were getting the plastic off and matching the roof as one looked like rhino skin and the other was perfectly smooth 

I did have them clean and dust free, there was scuffs on the original factory paintwork but a thin layer or 2 of paint covered it perfectly but id definally go use a primer next time

Ill try nail polish remover to try it ill post the results

I think i did it from roof, inteiror and them the sides and for the matchsticks, could sthin strips of cardboard or even custom small wood stand work?

My rooms small but always got my window and door open day and night and thanks so much for the advice

 

4 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Cellulose thinners will move that but not on your cutting mat.

Good words from the Maestro

Never thought of cellulose, ill see if i have some lying around

Right gents, 
Just swiped my mams acetone(nail polish remover) 

Got cotten pads too ill post before and afters

[josh_]

Smooth as butter 

These are all the lil spots paint got in/before pics and what I used 

[josh_]

Apologies it’s been a while been up to mostly railway shenanigans and waiting around on a carpenter for my other topic 

Connolly Shed 

Now I started work on these projects yesterday 

Its an old Bachman. 2-8-0 consolidation 

So far stripped it, put some the plastic gears in distilled malt vinegar to clean it but I first thought of nicking the last drop of my dads grey goose which could of worked as good

I also got another 2-8-0 and a diesel (I forget the class of loco) 

there all American as maintaining my grandads old athearn 4f’s and making a complete freight set I grew a connection with collecting the older Bachman and athearn stuff 

 

[josh_]

Here’s some pics and videos I got of them 

Some clips showing how aged they are 

[josh_]

Some more that took ages to send 

[josh_]

I have a problem 

I had 2 very small steel circles pop out when I opened up the motor 

I’m unsure where they go 

Any ideas from those who are more experienced and knowledgeable on model motors 

[GSR 800]

25 minutes ago, josh_ said:

I have a problem 

I had 2 very small steel circles pop out when I opened up the motor 

I’m unsure where they go 

Any ideas from those who are more experienced and knowledgeable on model motors 

IMG_8984.mov

They're the motor's brushes. They should be sprung, though idk if pancake motors achieved it via regular springs or a type of plate?

Edited July 28 by GSR 800

[josh_]

I wanna leave them out at the same time I sense that they could be a key component 

Ill open it up and show inside the motor 

[GSR 800]

5 minutes ago, josh_ said:

I wanna leave them out at the same time I sense that they could be a key component 

Ill open it up and show inside the motor 

IMG_8985.mov

motor wont work without them, they carry current through

[josh_]

Should they be placed in the holes here?

[GSR 800]

14 minutes ago, josh_ said:

Should they be placed in the holes here?

almost certainly in the two inner holes yes, though they should be sprung.

[josh_]

There solid 

I put them in but which way is better

left or right? I’m personally feeling the right but unsure 

[josh_]

I managed to get them through the holes at the front shown in the video 

is that right place to put them?

[josh_]

3 hrs later 

there done 

after a lot of repeated stripping and fidgeting with the underside and finding other problems 

the 2 are now resting funny built back 

now the ill work on Connolly tmr and show the progress and more info on that topic as well as post the diesel tmr

[josh_]

Attempted at running it

Didnt budge an inch

But produced steam as i got baby oil 

I didnt know u had to put abt 2-3 drops of the oil in the funnel, i put abt half a cap full in it and it was fogging up the layout, and had this damp smell off it, like stale hot candle wax(didnt stop a crowd from forming)

Now gotta strip it again and test it on some track at my bench and see hopefully i can get it moving perfectly

As it was my first time stripping a loco and reassembling it, im not surprised thinking back 

Was also pretty stupid to work on 2 identical models as parts likely got mixed but u learn