First brass kit GNR brake van

[cg-antrim]

I'd like to begin work on a SSM GNR brake van but am wondering what is the best tool to use to cut out the parts? And does superglue work as well as solder in putting these kits together? Is there any advantage to working with solder?

 

Thanks, everyone and sorry that these are basic questions.

[Georgeconna]

I use a nail sissors, curved and Straight types. I solder them, others glued them Same results really but the solder I feel will take bit more punishment!

[Kirley]

As George said nail scissors will do your job but if you want the tool for the job Google "Xuron Photo Etch Shear/precision Scissors"

[popeye]

Hi cg, I used solder & super glue. Use solder for the main structure and super glue for things like the thin strips down the sides also glue the buffers as they will

melt if soldered as i found out. You will learn a lot and be impressed with the end result. Good luck and let us see it when it's done.

[murrayec]

Is there any advantage to working with solder?.

 

Hi cg

 

Solder does a better job than glue, glue sometimes lets go on brass kits after time! Brass can be hard stuff to glue, main thing is that it has to be very clean!

 

Though do use low melt solder- 75deg. 145deg. & 185deg. and a temperature adjustable soldering iron- Maplin do a electronic unit that's not to expensive and well worth it if you plan to do more etched kits. It goes down to 150deg.

 

The idea of the three solder temps- this gives you 3 soldering stages, first at 185deg. then turn down the iron, second at 145deg, and third 75deg. great temp for soldering white metal parts. If you plan out the soldering steps carefully and use the three different temps you should have no problems soldering on parts without previously soldered parts falling off.

 

Phosphoric acid based flux is the best if you can get your hands on the acid- dilute it with water- 1 acid to 2 part water.

Carrs do flux in small green or orange bottles but will cost far more than the acid idea

 

Eileen's Emporium for the solder

 

Soldering tips;-

 

After cutting out the parts, use the leftovers to practice before you attempt soldering the model.

 

Clean all parts with fibre pen or emery paper thoroughly, do not touch the faces to be soldered.

 

Make a few small timber right angle jigs to assemble the parts on, and hold in place with thump tacks, pins n the like

 

Sweat solder everything where possible- apply flux to parts, melt a small blob of solder on each component at their joint faces first, try to get it even, apply flux, then bring the parts together and hold fast with clamps or pressure from a hand held stick, apply the iron briefly to melt the solder, remove the iron, hold in place until you see the solder solidify, hold for a few more seconds- done.

 

Work in stages, let the work cool down, wash thoroughly with water-n-washing soda and your off again.

 

If things are not sticking- stop, clean the parts, flux again, and start again.

 

If you do go to Maplin, pick up a couple of their heat sink clamps- they can be very handy when soldering close to small parts already soldered on. They are aluminium and will take the heat away very quickly.

 

murrayec

[David Holman]

Can only agree with Murrayec. That is as concise an account as you could want. And it works.

Just add, have used 5 min epoxy for white metal, it is less scary than solder, while many cyano glues do not like white metal at all and all that happens is you stick your fingers together instead...

Re cutting out etched pieces, I get by quite happily using a heavy duty craft knife. Works for me anyway.

[Glenderg]

Glued one of SSM's 30 ton brake kits recently with ZAP glue, medium CA+. No problems whatsoever, and a clever tip on it for detailed working.

[cg-antrim]

Thanks everyone - that's really helpful. If it turns out anyway passable I'll post a few photos!

[aclass007]

Excellent post by murrayec... I suggest it should be made a Sticky somewhere!