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Creating countryside scenics

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Scenic How to: We are always asked how to do scenics so we thought we'd put together a 'How to' step by step on doing a scenic board. This is a small sample board that we'll have on display in store so you can view it in detail. If your apply these technics across your layout you can recreate the same as is shown here. If don't have room for full layout then a small board this size is great for displaying your models or using to photograph. If you've any questions on anything shown here feel free to post.

 

Step 1: Starting off with our blank board we mark out roughly were we want the track to go

 

BRM_H2_1.jpg

BRM_H2_1.jpg

Edited by modelshopbelfast.com
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Step 5: Next its time for the ballast, a bit of a tedious process to do but take your time and get it right and its well worth the effort. Ballast was scattered dry gently brushed into place and a ballast shoulder created either side of the track. Once it was in place it was given a light spray of water using woodland scenic sprayer. Whilst still wet we used a dropper to soak the ballast with woodland scenic cement, the shoulder is quite deep so it's important to make sure the glue has soaked through. We generally as a rule of thumb let the glue dry overnight and then give it a second soak to make sure everything is locked in. Nothing worse than lifting a board and finding the ballast fall off as only the surface has got glue. If any bits of ballast move while gluing don't worry, once it drys touch in the ballast AFTER the glue drys. Do not touch the ballast while it is wet!

 

BRM_H2_5.jpg

BRM_H2_5.jpg

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Step 8: Now use Woodland plaster cloth to form the shape of the bank, covering squashed up newspaper. Use masking tape and water to hold the newspaper in place if its a larger area. The front area has the Hornby Granite walls glued in place. Once the glue and plaster cloth have dried, paint over with Woodland Green undercoat to hide all the white and brown. This provides a good base coat for the grass that will be added next.

 

BRM_H2_8.jpg

BRM_H2_8.jpg

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Step 10: Still working on the bank, start to build up the depth of the grass using Woodland medium and coarse turfs, again we mix shades to give a more realistic appearance. We also use the grass master here building up layers. If this was a layout its likely we'd have a few tress added to the bank, but as this is only a small board we aren't putting any on here.

 

BRM_H2_10.jpg

BRM_H2_10.jpg

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Step 11: Once you have the upper part of the bank looking the way you want it we move the the siding and the edge of the ballast shoulder. We're modelling a rarely used siding so we want to have the grass encroaching onto the siding. Same technic used again with the Noch grassmaster put glue down on the area you want to have grass then run the grassmaster over, mixing different shades with the lighter burnt grass closer to the track. You can see here the glue is still drying. Once the glue has dried then use a low powered hover to lift the excess grass.

 

BRM_H2_11.jpg

BRM_H2_11.jpg

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Some pictures on the board:

 

Another shot of the factory finished Bachmanns Class 08, a close up shot like this shows you how effective the static grass is and the difference the Woodland track pens make to the track. Other small details added to layouts will be noticed by very few but add extra realism, did you spot the authentic fishplates under the back wheel of the loco?

 

BRM_H2_gronk_2.jpg

BRM_H2_gronk_2.jpg

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I will echo what the lads have already said Gareth, fascinating work and excellently executed. I love the pic in post 18 of the 08. The fishplates on the track in that pic might not be what everyone would think of modelling and if they don't well that's a good enough reason to do so, brilliant I love it :tumbsup:.

 

Rich,

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