Soldering Track

[GNRi1959]

Just had a most frustrating time trying to solder track work to solid brass screw heads at baseboard joints. Had to lift track and replace because there was a mess of solder on the rail and none taking too easily on the screw head!

 

Frustrated........

[Broithe]

Some brass screws are lacquered, others may have a lubricating wax film applied, neither of these will help - a rub with glass paper may be of benefit?

[GNRi1959]

Is brass normally troublesome - is there an easier alternative?

[Andy Cundick]

I've always used steel gimp pins,just file the paint off and use a sensible size iron (30-40 amp),Andy.

[GNRi1959]

Andy, thanks for the response. Not wanting to shift almost 40 wood screws would it be worth trying flux on the screw heads?

[GNRi1959]

I can always revert back to slipping in a jointing piece of 25-30mm to bridge to joint, I don't see myself on the model show circuit anyway.

[Mayner]

A lot depends on the solder used, the cleanliness of the rail and screw head and the power of the iron. T

The resin flux in multicore solder is unlikely to be up to the job of soldering to a screw head to a rail without some additional help.

I have used "Powerflow flux' with multi core or plain solder for assembling handlaid track, the important thing is to thoroughly clean the flux reside from the joint on completion otherwise you get verdigras growing on the surface.

You should be able to get Powerflow flux from your local plumbing merchant.

If that does not work for you, simply pin the sleepers to the baseboard on either side of the baseboard joint with trackpins before cutting the rails. This arrangement worked for me on a modular N gauge shunting yard layout which survived a move from Ireland to New Zealand, I fitted strips of ply across the baseboard ends to protect the rail joints during transportation and storage.

[johnminnitt]

Hello, I used brass screw heads in this fashion some time ago, with no problem in soldering.

First I filed the screw-head - to remove any plating, muck etc.

Cleaned up rail with fine wet and dry.

Used 145 degree solder and plenty of flux - the same combination I used for etched kits. (Normal Phosphoric acid flux).

Afterwards cleaned up remaining flux with a damp brush.

You ask would it be worth using flux on the screw, I am sure it would be much harder without.

As Mayner says the flux in cored solder is not really up to this, I would always use a separate flux for any constructional joint - the 145 degree melting point helps too.

Edited April 21, 2018 by johnminnitt

[GNRi1959]

Hi John,

 

Thanks for this. Just returned from Bangor show where a few ver well experienced modellers were able to put me wise on this.

You're correct and I'm better equipped now!