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071 number removal

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heirflick
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lads, anyone know of a way to remove the numbers on the new 071 without damaging the paintwork?

 

It depends on the paint finish Seamus. If the loco is produced in the same factory as Bachmann models then some white spirit on a cotton bud rubbed gently works, although it can leave a ghost image of the original number if done to rough. I have had some great results with t cut on the tip of a blunt cocktail stick, I got that advice from a well known painter in the UK , doing a demonstration few years ago. Rub gently and it should work a treat. Always make sure that the area to receive the numbers has a gloss surface to help the transfer blend in and it makes the transfer backing paper disappear. Use a matt or satin varnish depending on your choice of finish to seal the transfer. I look forward to seeing some pics of the finished result and I bet it will look great.

 

Rich,

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I have had some great results with t cut on the tip of a blunt cocktail stick, I got that advice from a well known painter in the UK , doing a demonstration few years ago. Rub gently and it should work a treat.

 

Best method Rich. Never tried Anto's method before, but just a quick note on 10A scalpel blades - the tip is very fragile, moreso than 11's, and whilst not a biggy with card, when broken, produces a chisel shaped top that might scratch plastic if you don't have anto's delicate hands. :P Richie.

 

RR - was it Tim Shackleton doing the demo?

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i did use anto's method an a lima 201 and made a complete b....x of it , as the blade just took the numbers and surrounding paint right off:((

it seemed like the numbers were blended into the paintwork and not embossed like the lines on the old 141/181's. i removed them with breakfluid and a cocktail stick with no bother.

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Careful with brake fluid - it takes no prisoners. Wash it off twice afterwards. I did a poor scrub once, and a class 50 ended up like it had the Ebola virus a few hours later. :mad:

 

richie, you should drink loads of guinness to boost your immune system!! thanks for the tip on dublin atc live feeds....passed a few minutes on thae night shift:)

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i did use anto's method an a lima 201 and made a complete b....x of it , as the blade just took the numbers and surrounding paint right off:((

it seemed like the numbers were blended into the paintwork and not embossed like the lines on the old 141/181's. i removed them with breakfluid and a cocktail stick with no bother.

 

Seamus if you decide to ever use a blade again, put some micro sol on the printed numbers and let it soak right in. Use a curved blade as it won't scratch or cut into the paint. All factory finished models are sealed with varnish before the printed numbers are applied. This is helpful if you are using white spirit or thinners as it may remove some of the outer coat of varnish, but it won't remove any paint.

 

Rich,

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Best method Rich. Never tried Anto's method before, but just a quick note on 10A scalpel blades - the tip is very fragile, moreso than 11's, and whilst not a biggy with card, when broken, produces a chisel shaped top that might scratch plastic if you don't have anto's delicate hands. :P Richie.

 

RR - was it Tim Shackleton doing the demo?

 

It wasn't Tim Shackleton Richie. For the life of me I can't remember his name. He had painted examples of his work on display and the teak painted coaches were truly amazing for a non mass produced model. His lining was done with a lining pen and he gave a demo of how to achieve the best results. The lining looked as good as any printed lining I have ever seen. He gave a great tip on how to achive a metal look to factory painted coaches and locos by using tiny amounts of t cut and polishing the model. It really took the eggshell look off the model and it looked so realistic. He advised plenty of practice on old pieces of rolling stock to get the technique down to a tee.

 

Rich,

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Any man who can use a lining pen with skill is a man to be listened to. I spent a long time looking for one, got it, and never understood, after a half assed effort, how one was supposed to line a Titfiled Thunderbolt or similarly curved steam number. Like plastering, it is an art and mystery.

 

R

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The numbers on the silver/black 071's are printed on top of the silver on the sides and the same on the yellow front. They come of very easily with the scalpel blade. As I said before you have to be very very gentle when doing it. I already renumbered one for myself and another 3 for some customers and I've had no problems at all and the final result is fantastic. Also don't put brake fluid anywhere near the model unless you are prepared to do a respray job and be careful if you are using T cut as for some reason the metallic silver don't seem to like it.

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Guest hidden-agenda
The numbers on the silver/black 071's are printed on top of the silver on the sides and the same on the yellow front. They come of very easily with the scalpel blade. As I said before you have to be very very gentle when doing it. I already renumbered one for myself and another 3 for some customers and I've had no problems at all and the final result is fantastic. Also don't put brake fluid anywhere near the model unless you are prepared to do a respray job and be careful if you are using T cut as for some reason the metallic silver don't seem to like it.

 

Put up some pics will you mate.

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Nice little article describing how to remove numbers using the method I described only with a flat screwdriver in this months Model Rail Magazine

 

I have found the curved scalpel blades - No 10 & No 15 - to be good for this process. There's no corner to dig in and leave a scrape-mark.

 

65.jpg

65.jpg

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