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WaYSidE

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About WaYSidE

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Biography
    Mid 50's with 5 kids from 8+ to over 20
    Living in southeast midlands.
    total newbee, on steep learning curve.

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  • Location
    Laois

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  • Interests
    irish rail for now, used to have many more until santa brought the train set

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  • Occupation
    parent, farmer & more.

Recent Profile Visitors

143 profile views
  1. i think the lens is damaged, if i get a chance ill photo with another camera
  2. Ja know when ye get new job and some tells to look for long stand, it's begin to feel like that
  3. Noel, thanks for the photos, so some like to make models, others to operate, some to recreate prototypes, the first lima shot makes me think i should collect 1950 lima coaches, they run so well , i luv em, i use my 3 for testing tracks, but i starting to rthink i shouldn't as they are so 1950s, if your ever selling please consider me.. you Irish modellers are amazing, the effort you put into helping others on this site, i have read hundreds of usa, uk web pages, not once did anyone mention, as a saw on a post on IRM, that the wee turnout clips abridge rails on points can corrode or get dirty..,, yous go to the trouble of hosting pictures, crawling the attics for archives, supporting other modellers. thanks for all this info.. uploading photos is a slow process around here, rural broadband, = on all the time windup copper line, will do, uploading photos is wowfully slow, but when i next in office, it be faster
  4. I need assistance choosing what occupancy detectors, servo switch motors and related systems to use, Q1. should i gap both rails, per block = 4 sets of double gaps, per section in the ''stop, slow stop' long track sections, so much conflicting info online, my head is a mess, it would really suit me to gap both rails, and not just one side...i laid 100 plus metres of track n designed the layout in winter over two years, totally stuck now, even after running trains big long trains... Q2. if i do gap both sides of the track do the current sensors go on the incoming positive + side wire or the return negative (dare i mention 'common') to me 'common' is so divisive i know only refer to 'common' it as something that i can walk and play and relax in, in London. q3. Location detection - whether a train is located at a specific point on the layout. Proximity detection - whether a train is located at or near a point on the layout. which work best, ??? i mean which is easy peasy to install, run, maintain and dont need the brains of the 'team who priced the childrens hospital,' esp to send proper commands to turnout motors via the accessory bus, which systems actually suffer from proximity to main power bus? i know light effects light sensors, but does current effect the hardware attached to the light sensors as most hardware needs to be in close proximity, this is so confusing, LDR, PT and IR pairs, hall sensors, proximity sensors, Rfid if you had a choice which one to go for???? which to totally avoid. personally I think rice size rfid are fab, but they are reported not to work well if 12 inches near a bus wire..
  5. Eoin,, will do at weekend when i have decent camera in attic
  6. Noel, i havn't a clue bout them, but i do plan to use some, n rodding to manual turnouts, so i will keep an eye out here for progress
  7. thanks all... i will try Eoins suggestion for the murphy models, its is the Murphy and not the lima you describe, ?? thanks garfield thanks all...
  8. i think its a craven, or at least that whats it looks like, says lima underneath, gray roof, black n tan sides no white stripe, i will get photo for you this weekend..
  9. i understand from marksmodels, they cant get replacement bogies for damaged clip pins( or what ever they are called,,)on MURPHY MODELS BOGIES, is there an alternative,, ??? some bogies online seem to have the wee tab like pins on the top of the shaft, like the ones that clips into the murphys carriage base, but me's thinks there shorter bogies and also not same height. https://www.petersspares.com/hornby-x9723-maunsell-coach-bogie-pk1-with-wheels.ir or https://www.petersspares.com/hornby-s9926-gresley-coach-bogie-frame.ir theres other too...any ideas?? other than using bolt n nuts..which will be my last resort we also have a damaged lima model...need bogies for that too. yes we have two children under 12 who play with the trains and managed to floor a 071 at full speed, but it was the adults, their friends and a nasty online seller who are at fault with the bogies. does this come off? it does but now it wont go back on...
  10. WaYSidE

    barrow street

    Inspiring, thanks for sharing, i chuckle that your a 'junior member' you could be called warb'ilangelo, or maybe warb deVinchi, Often when i look at pic's and vid's of modellers work across the globe, i think' what chance have i in creating something so amazing. As i struggle on, five steps back, a few forward, i sorta get disillusioned. After a while more research, i plod on... Having read this entire tread with great photos, esp' the wide angle shots of your amazing layout I have been totally inspired by whats possible. Thank you, from this newbee, and I am sure I say thanks from all Irish modellers for raising the standards so high.
  11. WaYSidE

    Railyard, new layout

    Two more pic, after first attempt at ballast in with washed sand, fire ash, a scatter of ballast n tiny weed seeds from dust in the combine harvester. It's my first attempts,, never done any of this before. Southwest corner. In such confined space, I have to work from outside walls back into middle . My plan is to rough ballast everything on outside mainlines, as it's hard to get back into those spaces.......
  12. WaYSidE

    Railyard, new layout

    Hi, I understand track occupancy and the many different options and systems and manufactures, but am looking for advice... I am building a system to run trains, we went against all good advice and decide to lay more track and have far less scenery, because running trains around and around is easy, we dont want children decoupling models and breaking rakes, climbing over scenery, and anyway 95% of all the track near us is in open countryside. The layout so far is about 100m of double crossed looped track and a few end to end routes within, a few engine sheds, all in a small attic. 4 m x 2.75m , I have spent two years research and have only mid winter to build. It just fits 3 x 8x4 boards with an extra few meter runs both sides in holes in walls into more small side attics.adding a few more meters in hard to get to spaces, 2 levels built, 3rd is planned (with code 100, a wee bit of code 75 and electrofrogs), the already constructed section is mostly peco 100 track, star shape bus wire, 2.5 and 1.5 twisted bus, most is divided into power div' block wiring two-rail isolated gaps, 7 metre = longest runs including track, both rails gapped. far too many insulfrogs (some will be DCC contrled other manual) , part of level 2 and all level 3 will be electrofrog and mainly for the dearer locos best wagons and adults as those sections will be at my height, when ever, that is I can get to build those sections. Unusually.. i think, but for good reason, 80% of layout is wired above baseboard, as the base is 50cm from floor, due to low angled attic ceilings and the many children who will use the layout.. i kept it low to their height. while I understand 'booster divs and' 'power divisions' and the difference circuit breakers add to blocks i am getting bogged down in track occupancy as I say I have kids and designed most as manual turnouts, these are mainly close to the front edge so they could learn how they work, and how to operate them. this also allowed me to isolate many of the turnouts in power division groups ready to attach all the circuit breakers. We had a hornby select, to start, but now that we have run trains and more, we have moved to Z21 and have great fun with it, got to run six trains for ages with two children, no crashes or derailments. We also have dr5000 (a presie) for the entire accessory bus, which will remain seperate from Z21, used to run the trains. question???????? whats the best 'hardware' detectors for track occupancy, (we will not have many signals) mainly just at tunnels into those side attics and all signals will be on the outer mainline by the walls so that kids wont crush them if they reach over. we realy wish to control sections of track occupancy. I think a hybrid system would suit me, some 'current detection' esp' where i havent yet laid tracks, some infrared and maybe a reedswitch here and there. Its very confusing 'common rail' or not, but i choose not, i think the current dectors go on the negitive power side and not the positive..? I mainly wish to introduce block detection to stop trains running into each other, and occasionally to change the more remote signals and on the lowest 1st level dont have any real space for long sections of track with slowdown sections and stop sections, but will have on the yet unbuilt 2nd and 3rs levels. the remote point motors will be a mix of cobalt and peco surface motors, (yes i understand the differences). some of these will be linked to block detection. there is so much choice main stream manufactures and small firms making so many varied products i am lost and seek advice. . Sorry about the poor quality track plan photo, red is' UP' the loop, to Dublin, blue line 'down the loop, everything else is secondary < East..............................chug chug..........................west> heres a part of layout , west side note the very tight space under the ceiling slope, the green foam is sound barrier , made job very easy and disappears after ballasting with sand below, the ballast is just finished and still wet below shows lower and upper level, upper level in shot, upper level with wiring below base board base board above shows east end , wired above base board below is old shot before upper level was finished, but taken on tab with better camera.. below... north west , shows incline into hidden attic, not shown on track plan, but in an above photo you can see it emerge onto mid level an engine yard, has since been build in oval space . give us abreak, its my first ever layout, see more pics on my profile, .. thanks for viewing, i'v learnt alot form this site... keep up the great work
  13. I'm a DCC OO/ho NewBee. No soldering, wiring, model making experience or any other train skills...and I currently am at a 'stall' in the track build as I learn and think about block occupation in a few out of the way spaces in difficult to reach spots.

    Attic size <4 m x 2.75m, with stairwell and access in sorta the middle.

    It just fits 3 x 8x4 boards with an extra few meter runs both sides in holes in walls into small side attics. 2 levels built, 3rd is planned with code 75

    Track = <100 metres peco 100 track all mostly laid, star shape, 2.5 and 1.5 twisted bus, block wiring tworail isolated gaps, 7 metres runs including track, both rails gapped at many insulfrogs (some will be DCC) , part of level 2 and all level 3 will be electrofrog.

    80% of layout is wired above board, while I sorta understood 'power divisions' and the difference x circuit breakers and then track occupancy requirements, as most is manual, i'v left all that to the latter part of the build, which is where I am now at.imageproxy.php?img=&key=ac96cff20d889157imageproxy.php?img=&key=ac96cff20d889157imageproxy.php?img=&key=ac96cff20d889157

    0001-northwest.JPG

    0002-northeast-with-incline.JPG

    0003-south-two levelsJPG.jpg

    0004-west.JPG

    0001-sand-ballast-northwest.JPG

    0005-southwest.JPG

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