murrayec

For one or two off items it is best to go to a suppler, there is a steep learning curve to home etching and it takes a lot of trial n error to get it right. This publication is a great introduction;- Most of the materials are inexpensive, except for the UV light box which is required for exposing/transferring the artwork to the resist on the metal to be etched. If one is considering this, stay away from the spray on resist available in the electronic stores which is rather hard to control. Using a film like 'Puretch' is far better and will help to keep your sanity! Eoin

The August Fair Date;-

It's here:- https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/resources/proto_drawings/

July's Fair Date;-

It's a solder up job, parts from the etch sheets, the bottom sheet in the above photos is the main chassis frame, bogies frames are also on the etch sheets. Eoin.

Purchased many years ago when they were offered, discussed many times over the intervening years and now, and now!.......... Eoin

It's just unreal, poor girl

I'm assisting a chap to build one of these kits, thought I'd throw up a few photos here as wrennie's photos above, have disappeared;- Eoin

June's Fair Date;-

These chaps may have an 071 in the future, they posted a thread on here some time back https://shop.bowatersmodels.co.uk/collections/coras-iompair-eireann Eoin

071 was made by Hells Kitchen models in Wolverhampton, yes, I think about 10 kits were built? might have been more but limited! Resin body and etched brass chassis n bogies Eoin

In the workshop for repair;- SSM kit with extra detailing built by KMCE Eoin

May's Fair Date:-

@murphaph Their made up by myself Eoin

If this unit has been put together in usual SF manner, the body is glued to the chassis. Usually done with impact or UHU adhesives, so out with the scalpel and cocktail ticks to open it up- insert the scalpel in the join of body and chassis and carefully slide it along to try and cut the glue, as you proceed insert the sticks behind the blade as you move along. You may find molded parts in the join on the body side which will hinder the blade- their push-pull unit had four of these, 2 on each side, force will break these so go carefully....... You can see the broken moldings on the chassis edge here on the DVR I installed a NS angle at each end of the body with a captive nut soldered in, to screw the chassis back on, allowing for easy opening up in the future. Eoin

???? This is how I would push/adjust that photo. The photo is low resolution, better results can be achieved with higher resolution files. Eoin

Same here, my impression from this image was pale, pale blue!!

This will give you some idea on inclines and the space required, I have built a few inclines and found 1:30 is about the min 'straight' incline that works- just! all depends on what you are going to run on it...... Having a deep lower track- for scenery, is not possible in limited space. That is why helixes are used but need to be based on large radii, these limit the size of trains, and limits the loco running gear life. Down the rabbit hole....... Eoin

Yes, it can, but requires old style cutting wires, soldering, lighting units replacement for DCC and instillation of live coupler connection to power the rear coach lights.... Electric coupler setup Directional lights and coach lights Completed job. Unfortunately I took very few photos when doing it..... Eoin