Horsetan

Grease is the word.

I was last in Luzern in 2006, and still haven't quite worked out how Buchli drive actually works. Maybe some madmen might try to recreate the LMS Turbomotive in full size....

A fair few MG EVs in London - the Uber cab drivers are increasingly going around in MG5 EV estates, which look like a cross between a Toyota and a VW Passat.

I'm curious as to why there aren't additional CCTV/ANPR cameras situated on the road approaches to each crossing. Then you'd at least have a chance of working out who the eejits at the wheel are. Currently they all seem to be getting off scot-free when they shouldn't even be behind the wheel.

The ends only need to be prised upwards as the side clips are being released.

Er.....the nameplate definitely reads Lough Erne...

Interesting to see the Glenties line starter mounted on the bridge - the cable wheel and vertical cable run still visible on the footbridge wall. The arm does have a bit of a droop, suggesting that tension has been lost.... I think the starter signal is still in existence today, exhibited inside the Talyllyn Railway museum at Tywyn.

Remove the bogie outer frames - they pull off. Unclip the baseplate - there are four clips to be levered out with a screwdriver blade. That's it. See my post here

I thought the whole point of a greenway was to ensure the railway never came back.

One thing they're all good at is kicking the can down the road....

Scale flanges on scale rail, at the right gauge, are generally an improvement. Some people in the past have managed to turn down flanges just by using a file with the wheel mounted in an ordinary drill, but I'd suspect the results might be a bit inconsistent unless you're careful to constantly measure whilst the work is underway.

All done now. Looks the business.

What d'ye think lubricates the gears in IRM diesel geartrains?

I wonder if that RTÉ money is still resting in Ryan Tubridy's account?

The Tim Traveller channel is highly entertaining in its own right. Listen for his themed musical accompaniments in the background!

35018 was also the first Bulleid pacific to be rebuilt

You'll still get the tell-tale "chirrup" in the rails as the train approaches.

"Ted, I think he's a bit cold now that his towel's fallen off...." What I liked about Donegal Town "Diamond" most is that it only has three sides.....which makes it a triangle.

You could have a newsagent selling the "Portadown News"

I see axles for 21mm gauge on those bogies!

Forgot to conclude: the above leaves you with twelve surplus "A" wheels, which make ideal practice pieces if you're learning how to use a lathe. Turn them to P4 profile so you have spares. Also, six spare P4 axles with Deltic gears on them... ....and an invalidated IRM warranty.

I'd been thinking about the "A" regauge to 21mm (P4 profile) for a while. IRM's wheel diameter comes out at 12.7mm (3'2") and I had thought there was no directly suitable wheel on the market. It turns out that the answer was staring me in the face all the time, because Accurascale's P4 wheel pack for their recent Deltic/Class 55 is practically the same diameter, registering 12.66mm on the calipers. This is undersized for a Deltic (they actually ran on 3'7" wheels - 14.66mm) but Accurascale's compromise actually helps us here. Although the Deltic wheel has two small holes at 180⁰ to each other and a slightly different dish to the front face, it's still eminently usable for this quick 'n dirty job. Since both types of wheel are fully insulated only at the hub, that means there won't be much of a problem with pickup, since the collectors only need to extend to touch the backs of the new wheels. Off with the "A" bogie sideframes: ...exposing the extended axle ends, and then unclip the baseplate: Fish out the leading axle - on A39r, this is the one with nearside speedo drive, so that has a tiny end instead of a rotating cover. Compare with the Deltic wheelset: There's not a lot in it between the "A" and the Deltic: To remove the wheels from their axles, all that's needed is to grip and gently twist each wheel anticlockwise, as if unscrewing a fine-pitch bolt. As long as the wheel is kept straight, no damage to the insulating bush should occur and you should not end up with wobbly wheels. DO NOT remove the brass bearings from the axle. This is what we end up with: As the Haynes Book Of Lies says, "refitting is the reverse of removal" - the Deltic wheels are mounted on the "A" axles, again going carefully, twisting clockwise as you press the wheel along. A decent indication of when to stop is when you see just the merest glint of silver appear in front of the wheel hub. We need to have an Irish back-to-back gauge handy, giving a back-to-back measurement of 19.67mm. These are available from the Scalefour Society Stores and are not terribly priced: Incidentally, you could adjust to 19.87mm back-to-back if working in "dead scale", in the same way that I use 17.87mm for dead scale British standard gauge. The measurement over the outside face of the Deltic rim should come out at around 23.9mm. Now see the difference in gauge: That should provide a suitable spur to finish the others: Now is the time to bend the pickups outwards to match the wider gauge. They must be able to touch the backs of the new wheels: Insert the regauged wheelsets, with the brass bearings clicking into their original places: Clip the bogie baseplate back on, push the outside frames back in, and the job is done: Now repeat all the above for the other bogie: This can be achieved in about 40 minutes, plus up to thirty quid for the Accurascale Deltic P4 pack (cheaper on eBay if you play your cards right). End result just looks right:

Slavery never really went away. Even the skin colours of exploiters and exploited remain much the same. It was ever thus. *shrugs*

Looking at the likes of Amazon, etc., I'm not entirely sure things have changed.

The headcode box areas look handy enough to fit revolving blinds in.....