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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. Here are the same vids on Youtube. [video=youtube;OwiBnQG7a-s]
  2. Thanks for the compliments! That's a Bachmann class 25 in the first vid, with factory fitted sound. The 141's are using sound chips from The Model Shop which were fitted by myself.
  3. Here's a some short vids of the layout... http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i131/Irishthump/Train%20Vids/?action=view&current=video-2012-09-04-22-51-35.mp4 http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i131/Irishthump/Train%20Vids/?action=view&current=video-2012-09-04-23-00-37.mp4 http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i131/Irishthump/Train%20Vids/?action=view&current=video-2012-09-04-22-40-26.mp4
  4. Anto, it looks mighty! Did you add any additional flock after you put down the basket liner?
  5. Well the new unit arrived last week and it's working prefectly, so I was glad I waited rather for the replacement instead of running out and buying a new system. Sorry for the late update, but I was too busy just running trains... In had pretty much forgotten how much fun it was!
  6. Sorry, Anto. Completely missed your question! Here's the link to the liner I used.http://www.buy4now.ie/woodiesdiy/productdetail.aspx?pid=12569&loc=P&catid=14.30
  7. Wrenne is spot on about the 0v and 12v. As for the central position thing... you need to have the point blades in the central position when fitting the point motor underneath the board. You will need to wedge it or tape it as the spring in the point will make it spring to one side or the other. You also need to hold the bar on the point motor dead centre while doing this. Again, you can use tape or a piece of card. About the switch... point motors are only designed to received a quick burst of power, if the power is left on for too long the motors coil will heat up and burn out. And this can happen in a matter of seconds! To stop this you can fit a CDU or capacitor discharge unit between the point motor and the switch. This unit will only deliver a very quick burst of power to the motor no matter how long you hold the switch in position. Here's a link which explains all this is in great detail - http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.htm#Point Motor Wiring.
  8. I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points. I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout.
  9. I was there on Sunday and I enjoyed it a lot. My kids will be chuffed the Lego won best layout, as they hijacked my voting slips! Had a good look at the 071s and have to say they look savage. I really only want one in Supertrain livery, so there's my Christmas ruined! Wrenn was the only face I know there. And since he was relaxing at the front desk having being made MC I took it upon meself to torment him for a few minutes....
  10. Are you planning to operate the points via DCC as well?
  11. Sorry lads, I assume that's the MRSI show over the Oct bank holiday?
  12. Well Hattons said that they rarely get Gaugemaster stuff being returned faulty. I know the Prodigy is a MRC product which Gaugemaster buy in and then re-badge, but it's obviously good enough for them to stand over it. Like you say their DC controllers are incredibly hard wearing.
  13. That's the reason I'm willing to take another replacement. It was at a great price and I found the system a real joy to use. Have you tried the free software for the Prodigy Advance? I have it on my laptop but hav'ent gotten round to buying the PC interface for it yet.
  14. I get where you're coming from, Anto. I was onto Hattons this morning and since they have them in stock I've decided to give the PA one more go. If it goes wrong you can all tell me "I told you so"!
  15. Sounds like a plan! I sent the Advance back to Hattons this morning. Not 100% sure what I'll do just yet, if they have another one in stock I might take a chance on it. I mean what are ther chances of getting 3 dodgy ones in a row?! But thanks for the info, Anto.
  16. Just a question on the SB3A, Anto. Am I right in thinking you have to buy a seperate power supply for the booster?
  17. Anto, I payed £200 for the Prodigy Advance, so I can spend that again on a new system. Fro what I can see I could get the Powercab and the SB3A for around that price.
  18. I think so, Anto. The only thing I'm worried about is the fact that the Powercab is 1.5A and the Advance was 3.5A. I could be running up to 4 sound equipped locos at once. I would also have a few coaches/wagons euipped with lights. Would you say the Powercab would cope with that?
  19. Sorry! 199 not 299!
  20. Sorry if I sounded harsh, man. Not my intent! Just pointing out that it does'nt make sense.
  21. The first one. And at 299 it's a lot cheaper than buying from Gaugemaster directly.
  22. A fob off?! What planet are you on? Why would Bachmann want to "fob off" potential buyers of a product that they are producing?
  23. No chance it's an error? I mean you have Bachmann issueing a statement to say they're not involved
  24. Just because MM is using the company that makes Bachmann's models does'nt make the 071 a Bachmann product. Kader actually owns Bachmann, they bought the company in the 80's. It could well have been Kader's decision not to include Bachmann.
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