Crimping will cause far more work-hardening than soldering - there will be some hardening from the temperature effects, but you would have to press rather hard on the soldering iron to produce any appreciable work-hardening. Any decent crimp will grip the insulation for the mechanical connection, for this reason. The Ross Courtney had the wire passed through the small hole before soldering, to provide a mechanical support and the wire would be supported a short distance away. The problem, particularly in a domestic situation, with any crimp is having a tool appropriate for both the crimp and the wire that is in use. I have a nice collection of crimpers here because they fell out of calibration at work, sometimes just due to a change in wire supplier, but they're still near enough for my purposes.
The Scotchlok will survive the hardening of the copper because the wire is supported by the 'tunnel' effect of the body.
A soldered and taped connection, as might be used under a baseboard, would be essentially the same situation.