GNRi1959

Thank you, next step is to wire it and test it. Thats the part I'm looking forward to. Do you normally solder for testing or use crimped connectors to Peco power connectors, I have to employ 2 DPDT switches also.

Peadair, yes I got the photo. I really am sorry I couldn't figure out who sent it but yes, thanks for that.

Well, why not. Hopefully, a bit of feedback will improve things for me. Two points to note.... The track in the top of the picture is just sitting there, it is not fixed. There is a short section of track between the curved crossover in the foreground, it is a bit short in length and after testing , I may replace it. If wagons run over it ok, shunting at slow speed I may leave it. What do modellers do with end to end layouts. At the North end (bottom) there was a road bridge over and at the top just short of the passenger platforms. Any ideas?

Track is now almost laid, really testing time getting points positioned and infill pieces laid between crossovers. Had to leave it yesterday evening room lighting started to prove inadequate (nice to be in a cosy room though with a radiator nearby!). A good hour should finish track laying today!

Laying track today, it is hard work.I'm boring a hole under each point for connection to whatever system of point control I'm happy with.

Are the commercial rod and crank point rodding systems available actually to scale?

I also thought of concealing the joint and break in the ballasting with sleepers as can be easily seen here in Omagh. This is the area I am modelling so its pretty close.

Thanks for that Noel. I happen to plan on cutting short sections that are around four - five sleepers wide. I don't want to make it look obvious so may make one of them slighter longer to stagger the joints.

Noel, does the small piece of track have to be a Peco set track? Can I use flexi that is well fitted?

Junctionmad, you are so right. Someone else pointed that out to me in a PM earlier today. However I have made some forward movement today before I lose the plot. I ran the loco today for 20 minutes. 10mins with cork and 10mins without. I recorded the sounds coming from both options and played them back. The corked board was much quieter so I coated my baseboard with PVA, spread evenly, and placed the cork on top. I chamfered the cork edge along the suggested distance from the sleeper ends and it dried quite quickly. I like it.

I'm hoping to start fixing some track this weekend and from the many things I have read and digested I think I'm happy to go along with this...... 1. Laying the track directly onto the birch plywood baseboard (cork has minimal influence on sound/noise) 2. Baseboard joint will employ Noels method of a short piece of track bridging the joint with fishplates either side 3. I will bore a hole for each point so that point control (underneath) can be an option later if I change my mind. 4. I hope to explore road and crank changing on the surface 5. I will wire the layout and run it for some time before final fixing and ballasting

To all.... the my layout is not for exhibition, travelling or moving. It was built on two baseboards so I could get them home from work in the car. If I ever have to move it briefly to decorate the room, change the carpet or maybe once a year bring it to the local model exhibition I can. So thus far, I think Noels idea sounds like a solution worth exploring. Thanks all.

Of all the methods suggested I quite like the idea of a brass screw inserted into a pilot hole and screwed to the correct height before soldering the rail into position. As you say, you can easily disguise this with ballast etc.

I have sent PM -thanks

I need 12 copper clad PCB sleepers in a hurry - anyone out there able to post to me? Will cover cost. Need them for baseboard joint.

What is the best method of preparing the trackwork prior to making the cut in the baseboard joint? I have read about PCB's (??) and other methods but what is the tried and tested way that's best?

Kirley, there nothing to see really as its just a track arrangement with loco and wagons on a baseboard of cork. I took delivery of a nice boxed/unopened Bachmann Red Brick signal box which is quite similar to Omagh. The North Cabin at Omagh had a raised platform and handrail to the front facing the line which I will have to add to this kit.

This evening the first engine and wagons left Omagh North with several wagons on board. I ran my first test on the cork and to be honest there was more noise from my heart beat, excited by this first time to control a loco in over 30years!

Dave, Get the picture loud and clear, thanks Tony

Thanks for this, I have only 10 points in total?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]26487[/ATTACH Alas, I found a decent picture in my collection. This was taken at the siding which has been the subject of great debate. Complete with manually operated unloading hatch.

When using rod and crank point control I presume its best to connect to the pre-drill a hole in the centre of the tie-bar or is there any merit in using a system of cranks on the surface to try to look as realistic as possible and throw the tie-bar from one end only.

Dave, this small shunting layout measures 2metres x 500mm and will only serve to move 0-6-0 class engines and wagons around the sidings and mainline from end to end. One line on a shuttle, the other for shunting. There will be little or no noise, I imagine. However, if anyone out there thinks that I'm totally wrong in doing this please let me know because I plan on starting to lay track soon. Thanks.

I cut these birch ply track templates for my large radius curves this morning when things were quiet.

I know it's way past Christmas but as a traditional 'film' user I sold off all the digital camera stuff I bought last year, and didn't use, to fund a £400 railway spending spree over Christmas!