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A good beginner kit?

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Having recently acquired a soldering iron, I've been looking to get into brass or whitemetal kits and was wondering, could anyone suggest a good place to start/ one that wouldn't be too difficult? Irish would be ideal but nothing is out of the question.

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Posted

Irish whitemetal kits have largely been superseded by resin (Provincial Wagons) and 3 D printing.

A simple wagon kit is probably the best starting point, before tackling a complete a loco or coach.

JM Design

My CIE 25436-25893 series flat wagon kit (set of 3) would be a good starter for etched kit assembly, fold up construction with minimal soldering.

image.png.800ca87b08edfcc416695b9ab8c130f3.png

Dart Castings/MJT can supply whitemetal buffer and axlebox castings, I can supply cast brass springs.

Supplied to order from PPD in Scotland, I will need to check pricing.

Studio Scale Models

Website appears to be down.

Produced a brass fold up kit for the CIE 30T Brake Van and very some very nice whitemetal kits for.

1. Irish Standard Open Wagon used by GSR/GNR/CIE 

2-3. GSWR & MGWR 'soft top" Convertible Wagons

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Posted

Agree with all the above but would add a set of broaches/reamers to Galteemore's list of tools if you plan to tackle an etched kit. These usually require holes opened out to accept bearings or wire or whatever. Broaches are the best (only?) way to do this accurately. They're a worthwhile investment. The 0.6-2.0 mm set (yellow packet) is possibly the most useful. Possible suppliers are:

Hobby Holidays: https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=75

(though it seems they are out of stock here at the moment - temporarily I would think)

Cookson Gold: https://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?channel=uk&query=broach

Best of luck with whatever you decide to start with.

Alan

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Posted

Amen to the above! Rule number one - never, EVER, start with a loco kit. A wagon much better and you could do a lot worse than JM's products.

 The golden rule of soldering is undoubtedly 'cleanliness comes before godliness' - hence Galteemore's suggestion of the glass fibre pencil. A necessary evil as you will forever be getting bits in your fingers. Flux is essential too - I use Fry's Powerflux paste because it stays where you want it, though it does leave a residue to clean up afterwards and other brands are certainly available! While I use 240 degree multicore solder for electrical work, my go to for kit making is 145 solder, which is ideal because if you want to solder several pieces close together, it can be useful to use different temperatures - I've got 80 and 188 as well for that very reason. 

 However, no need to get ahead of yourself. Practice on bits and pieces first. Soldering can be seen as a bit of a black art, but it just requires care and the right tools. Another one is the iron itself - you will not be able to solder large or thick pieces of brass together with a 15 watt iron. I use mine for layout wiring, but have a 50 watt one for loco and kit building - though I work in 7mm scale, where my 100watt iron also comes in useful. 

 Another tip - try not to pick up the iron by the hot end. Seems obvious, but we've all done it - and it really hurts!

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Posted

Agree with all of the above advise. I have built several of the SSM kits, the Bandon tank is not so difficult if you  insist on starting with a loco! and the 30t brake van makes a rather nice model.  Take your time and ask on this forum if you have a problem. We have all done it!!  :trains:

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the help fellas, Now straight into another Question, where can I get my hands on scrap brass?

Edited by Metrovik
Spelling.
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Posted

 

On 9/1/2024 at 5:23 PM, David Holman said:

Amen to the above! Rule number one - never, EVER, start with a loco kit. A wagon much better and you could do a lot worse than JM's products.

 The golden rule of soldering is undoubtedly 'cleanliness comes before godliness' - hence Galteemore's suggestion of the glass fibre pencil. A necessary evil as you will forever be getting bits in your fingers. Flux is essential too - I use Fry's Powerflux paste because it stays where you want it, though it does leave a residue to clean up afterwards and other brands are certainly available! While I use 240 degree multicore solder for electrical work, my go to for kit making is 145 solder, which is ideal because if you want to solder several pieces close together, it can be useful to use different temperatures - I've got 80 and 188 as well for that very reason. 

 However, no need to get ahead of yourself. Practice on bits and pieces first. Soldering can be seen as a bit of a black art, but it just requires care and the right tools. Another one is the iron itself - you will not be able to solder large or thick pieces of brass together with a 15 watt iron. I use mine for layout wiring, but have a 50 watt one for loco and kit building - though I work in 7mm scale, where my 100watt iron also comes in useful. 

 Another tip - try not to pick up the iron by the hot end. Seems obvious, but we've all done it - and it really hurts!

Also I've got a 30 watt soldering iron, is that enough of a middle ground to do both wiring and kit building in 4mm scale.

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Posted (edited)
54 minutes ago, Metrovik said:

Thanks for all the help fellas, Now straight into another Question, where can I get my hands on scrap brass?

You need to use thin stuff - under 0.5mm or thereabouts. Best place is an engineering supplier like College Engineering or Metalsmith. Ideal source would be another modeller who can let you have some scrap etch bits etc. eBay may be able to assist. 

Edited by Galteemore
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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Metrovik said:

Thanks for all the help fellas, Now straight into another Question, where can I get my hands on scrap brass?

Hobby Holidays has a good selection of brass and nickel silver sheet including the thin stuff recommended by Galteemore. 

https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=19

1 hour ago, Metrovik said:

 

Also I've got a 30 watt soldering iron, is that enough of a middle ground to do both wiring and kit building in 4mm scale.

A 30W iron will handle most small jobs such as those you'd encounter in a 4mm/ft wagon kit. As you practise on scrap bits, you'll start to get a feel for what the iron is capable of. 

Edited by Tullygrainey
typo
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