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NEM Tension coupler

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MKrocker
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Hi lads,

 

Does anyone know how to remove the coupler of the MK2D coaches? I thought it was a NEM coupler, but can't for the life of me get the thing out?

The reason for taking out the coupler is that I am displaying the coaches and want them buffered up properly!

 

I couldn't clip them out so I just cut them out. But that's no use if you plan on using the coupler again. If you want close coupling on the MK2Ds you should use the Roco type couplers that Hornby make.

10969188_637055213088584_1132866435_o.jpg

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Hi lads,

 

Does anyone know how to remove the coupler of the MK2D coaches? I thought it was a NEM coupler, but can't for the life of me get the thing out?

The reason for taking out the coupler is that I am displaying the coaches and want them buffered up properly!

 

They are amazingly tight. I picked up a pair of coaches at the Stafford show yesterday and so I had them handy to have a go at. They do start to move if you squeeze the ends together first, but they're still more reluctant to come out than I am determined to make them..

 

I found it better to remove the bogie and release the carrier* from the coach, to avoid any mishaps, but it was still more difficult than I was prepared for..

 

*Taking care not to lose the tiny spring.

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Hi

 

I've had that problem with all the MM coaches- this is what I do;-

 

The socket is a bit tight so I shave down the end of the coupler bayonet ends insitu- just a little and with a brand new scalpel blade. Then clamp the bayonet together with a tweezers and pull the coupler out. Best done in a cradle to protect the coach, and while pulling it out twist the couple to one side so that one bayonet enters the socket first.

 

If you shave a small amount off the bayonets the coupler can be used again

 

Eoin

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Hi

 

I've had that problem with all the MM coaches- this is what I do;-

 

The socket is a bit tight so I shave down the end of the coupler bayonet ends insitu- just a little and with a brand new scalpel blade. Then clamp the bayonet together with a tweezers and pull the coupler out. Best done in a cradle to protect the coach, and while pulling it out twist the couple to one side so that one bayonet enters the socket first.

 

If you shave a small amount off the bayonets the coupler can be used again

 

Eoin

 

Ah! I shall try that.

If I manage to get it off i'll replace the coupler with the roco or hornby close coupler.

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I couldn't clip them out so I just cut them out. But that's no use if you plan on using the coupler again. If you want close coupling on the MK2Ds you should use the Roco type couplers that Hornby make.

 

How do the Roco compare to using Kadee's on MMs? (i.e. Cravens and Mk2d)

 

I've noticed some of my MM Mk2d's have quite a variance in the height of the existing NEM coupling.

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How do the Roco compare to using Kadee's on MMs? (i.e. Cravens and Mk2d)

 

I've noticed some of my MM Mk2d's have quite a variance in the height of the existing NEM coupling.

 

I have no experience with Kadees and have only tried the Roco couplings on the MM MK2Ds. They worked brilliantly for me as they allow the coaches to be actually joined but, thanks to the otherwise crap swivel coupling on the MK2Ds, they don't derail on tight curves. However you can't use them to couple the MK2s to MM locos because there is too much of a height difference so that may be a job for the Kadees if you can buy them in varied heights.

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Hi

 

Yes, the MM socket varies on the different coaches, I fitted Kadees 18, 19 & 20 onto cravens- but the coupler socket is a bit high so I super glued them to the underside of the socket! if you use the green Delux cyano you can snap them off again if needs be.

 

If using Kadees- always use the setting up jig to get them at correct height. The instructions suggest using a .8mm strip of shim metal across the track rails and the trip pin should just touch the shim- if you don't have the jig.

 

Kadees come with a very helpful leaflet to help setting them up

 

Eoin

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