Glenderg Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 [i'm not claiming to be brilliant at this, it's just something I discovered that's worth sharing, and I'll get better over time] Mornin All, As an alternative to Deluxe Materials Scenic Rust, and other more methods which Anto etc. are king of, I have an alternative to the beginner that I thought might be worth sharing. So the method is done using Gouache paint, or Cotman Water Colours as it's branded in shops. They come in small tubes at about €5.25 each, but there is enough in each tube to do for years it seems. I work with three colours - Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber and Raw Sienna, and they are gloopy watercolours that are designed to dry, be re-wetted and re-worked, and so on. So here's how it work's and what you'll need. The object it's going on to needs a primer or base coat. It will not stick to plain plastic surfaces. The paint is put on neat, not watered down. The burnt umber chiselled into corners and alternative stripes of raw and burnt sienna chiselled in vertical strokes. Ok, so it look's like a child did it. That's perfect. Let it dry - it will take about 6 minutes. The next step is to wet the chiselled brush and then dry it off. There will be enough moisture left in the brush to wake up the paint. Using vertical strokes again the paint will start to blend together, but you do not want a single colour. Push the darker paint into the corners and leave the bright colours bloom in the middle. It will take 3 or 4 minutes to dry. The next step is to rewet the area with an almost dry brush, and tap the surface with cotton wool or the fine sponge to soak up excess that you don't want. Cotton buds can also be used. This is the result. Leave the project overnight, and return in the morning. If you feel it's too heavy re-wet the paint and remove more. I'm happy with this so I'm going to seal it and leave to dry with Games Workshop Fixative/matt varnish. Acrylic varnishes will re activate the paint, so avoid them where possible. If you want to add more layers, seal that layer and once dry the process can start again. The great Tim Shackleton uses this effect with far more skill than I - http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/p472785474/h2D2D78C3#h2d2d78c3 This is it currently, and I'm off to remove a bit.It still looks a bit heavy, but that's the beauty of this paint. I hope this post has been of some help, might encourage others and get some more tips. Richie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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