Angus

Hi David, Thinking some more on this I've realised I am slightly confused by your comment on shortening the dropper. In 2mm the dropper (heavier iron wire) acts as the counter weight to pull the loop down. Even if the loop goes beyond the vertical the dropper will extend back past the vertical and return the loop back to horizontal. If you shorten the dropper surely you would reduce this counter weight effect? This started me thinking that your problem might be that the coupling is set further out relative to the end of the wagon/coach in 7mm. This would allow the loop to pass further through the vertical to the point where the dropper can't act as a counter weight. If so the solution would be to somehow restrict the movement of the loop. Hope the makes sense, it would be easier to explain with a sketch (assuming I had any drawing ability!)

Hi David, As a 2mm scale modeller I've been using DGs for a while now so have experience of my own and those shared by others in conversations amongst other 2mm modellers. I've never used them in 7mm scale though. The loops are recognised as a problem, that said, I don't have much of an issue. Some 2mm modellers just put the loop on one end of their stock, which works if your stock always travels in one direction. If not you are going to have problems due to stock with no loops trying to couple (or have to carefully choreograph the moves). When I first started using DGs I experimented with some soft iron wire for the loops. I thought I was being clever as this meant I could just fold the loop and dropper up out a single piece of wire, no need to solder on a dropper. The wire was thicker though, probably bigger than 0.5mm where the standard 2mm wire is 0.3mm. I found I had a couple of issues: Firstly the loops clashed more causing problems when coupling. Changing back to 0.3mm phosphor bronze wire all but removes the issue. I think the slight spring in the phosphor bronze wire also helps. Secondly the loops didn't drop back as consistently. I suspect this was do to the loop being heavier so the dropper didn't have as much of a counter balance effect bringing the loop down. The wire was also a slightly tighter fit in the mounting hole (but still free to move) so I suspect there was more friction involved. Again, moving back to phosphor bronze wire with an iron dropper resolved this. I've found the loops do pop out occasionally but only if I'm manhandling the stock, I've never had this issue if they are on the track and my fingers aren't involved. As your rakes are short might it be worth trying some 0.3 phospher bronze for the loops? It should be strong enough even for 7mm.

Hi David, a post on RMweb has just reminded me of an issue with DGs. If you have long stock and sharp curves body mounting the couplers can cause derailments. The loop pushes on the coupler vertical of the wagon in front sideways pushing it off the track. With a 2mm scale diesel (about 4" long) if the couplers are body mounted it will push anything longer than a short wheelbase wagon off the track on and A5 point (although I think the curve exiting the point is slightly sharper) I now bogie mount my couplers. It might be worth checking all your stocks works through your point work before progressing any further.

Just measured the wire that comes with the 2mm couplings and it's 0.3mm diameter. I'd guess this would be strong enough for 7mm?

Hi David, DGs are the chosen coupling in 2mm finescale circles with about 70%of people using them. My experience is to use as thin a wire as possible to form the loops. This is better visually but also operates better as the loops slide over one another easier. In 2mm the DGs come with thin phospher bronze wire which is also a bit springy. I'm guessing this also helps.

Just got a copy of the September Railway Modeller. The photos look great, a really good example of how a small layout can appear much bigger than it is.

I notice in the "coming next month" column in this month's Railway Modeller there is a photo of a rather attractive MGWR green loco...... Looking forward to reading this next month!

Chapeau Ben Healy, He deserved the win today.

I'm sorry, I refuse to believe that is a work bench, I can see the wooden surface beneath.....

Hi Darragh, Try: https://www.modelbrickyard.com/en You can customise colour, bond and mortar. Not sure if you will get the shade you are looking for but worth a play if you have't tried.

That looks stunning David. The dark green suites the loco so well.

I which case I must have been sat by you last night and didn't realise. I must make more of an effort to introduce myself! It was a great talk though.

Also not convinced there is anything to "Cash in on" here. Most of the finescale societies (2mm, 3mm, S Scale etc) have produced their own plain track bases. These are all pretty similar, normally six sleepers on a web through which the rails are threaded. The 2mm Scale Association's 8' 6" product is shown above. From memory the development of the tooling for these was a considerable investment that had to be backed by the product development fund financed by the society's membership subs. The only commercial offerings that are similar are from British Finescale who offer a the above for standard N Gauge but for code 40 rails, finer than all commercially available track. They do offer points kits in other scales 00, 00SF & EM but as can be appreciated these are all scales with a large following. I doubt the interest 21mm gauge matches even the smaller of the specialist societies. That's not to say it can't be done. It just needs a co-ordinated effort and investment from those interested.

Hi, just a question I'm struggling to find a definitive answer to. On broad gauge vans what size are the G and S in Great Southern days, the lettering seems to cover 3 planks so I am assuming 18" but we all know what assumption do..... Thanks