David Holman

That's well above my pay grade, but Am sure there are folk out there who will know.

Well done Alan, good to see things are back on track.

That looks high quality and deserves lots of sales.

No easy routes for this man! Great work John.

Tick VG, a sticker and extra house points! The photos clearly show that model locos should not be black - it is just too dense, so the weathering really brings the model to life. Having built two of these kits (later versions, mind), I reckon there were around 1200 rivets to press out on each one, so readers should have every sympathy and the Archer rivets transfers work really well. Why anyone would produce a kit of such an obscure loco, especially in 7mm scale and broad gauge is a bit of a mystery, but then look at the finished article and you start to see why. Still available from Studio Scale Models, by the way and the revised version is a delight - as long as you invest in a decent rivet punch! Running rights on Northport Quay a given, David. I think that is five Sligo tanks between us now...

Love this type of train - a real mix of vehicles height, length and colours.

Looks like very useful advice to me, John. A matt finish to body work and a bit of light use of weathering powders to roof and bogies maybe all that is needed. Interesting to reflect on the techniques require in the various scales, while dealing with 3D prints seems to require an approach all of its own!

Like???? This is astonishing work, Scahalane! That roof alone is just epic and good luck with the glazing, by the way... Most of us are happy to work at the smaller scale end of things, but every now and again, someone not only comes up with something truly remarkable in scope, but also has the skill, vision and determination to see it through. By the twitching of my thumbs, something extraordinary this way comes! Just wonderful. Well done sir!

Back in the day, when tv programmes were made for schools to watch, a favourite of mine was "Look, Look and Look again!" Sound advice for anyone and even when you look at early Picassos, it is clear he was a brilliant draughtsman before he followed other paths. Cubist model railways another matter methinks!

All sorts of lessons and inspiration here, not least that you don't need a huge space to produce something of quality. For me though, it also shows the influence of artistic talent, which makes this scene live and breathe. A great place to photograph favourite models too!

Fabulous! Time very well spent.

The crane is approaching completion now, with just a few tweaks here and there - plus a pair of axle boxes on the side I'm not showing! The component parts are shown below - separated for painting and weathering. After four days of waiting for the Precision paint to dry, decided to take a chance and over paint it with Humbrol and [fingers crossed], this seems to have worked, so as they are both enamels, looks like the Precision tins were missing something. It certainly wasn't a case of not stirring them enough. I've used a mix of matt black with No67, dark grey - the same as I've used on the Acla's hull. As you can see, most of the crane is this very dark grey now, apart from the red buffer beams and the light grey interior of the cab. The rest of the pictures show various angle of the model - as much a bit of 'proof reading' as anything. Weathering powders have been used extensively - burnt Sienna [for rust], black for soot and coal dust, plus pale grey which I find helps tone things down and avoid making the colours too stark or bright. Remaining jobs include the aforementioned axle box castings, some coal dust on the cab floor and maybe some lettering - though haven't decided what yet. Northport Quay No1 maybe? Alternatively, I've got a selection of brass name plates I could use - or I could just leave things as they are. The workbench needs a serious tidy up now and Fintonagh is off to a show in Guildford next Sunday. After that, a carry case for Acla is required, so I can take it to next month's club competition & I might just make it a display case as well. One thing for sure, there is always something new to look forward to!

Really big worms!

One wagon type that made it across the water unaltered is the standard tank wagon. Dapol do one and given the amount of work needed on a Slater's kit, are good value. In terms of rtr locos, don't forget there are a couple of nice industrial types available, which should go rather well with your chosen setting. Meanwhile, Alphagraphix do a whitemetal underframe kit for their wagons, along with an etched chassis for an H van.

Various bits of detail have been added to the crane, then it was given a coat of spray primer. Looking at photos on the web, I got an idea that the corrugated body might be wagon grey, with the boiler, winch and jib black. Thinking about it, it would have been easier to spray the whole thing black first, but instead decided to brush paint and the Precision matt black I used still hasn't fully dried two days after application. Anyway, the first couple of pictures show the boiler, which is a piece of aluminium tube from an old roller blind. Made a conical top from 20thou plastic, then used plastic filler to adjust the shape. Details came from the spares collection, plus some Archer rivet transfers. Decide some rear access doors might be appropriate on the body, in case the rear of the boiler needed attention & these were quickly made from more plastic sheet. Cab steps also came from the spares box, along with a hook each on the buffer beams. An operator figure was added to the cab, while the roof has been given a small extension at the front. I've used elastic thread for the jib cable, carefully wrapped around the main winch drum and threaded up and over the jib to a piece of white metal, fitted with a home made hook. The weight of the white metal is enough to keep the elastic thread straight & have since used this method to replace the cables on my Airfix/Dapol crane. Am now thinking that I may spray the whole crane black, as adding weathering, rusty highlights and so on may well work better than the current grey-black combination.

Looks very 'in hand' to me!

That looks ridiculously good and with a fine cut in the rail top would challenge anyone to say it is not the real thing!

Ouch!

Welcome to Irish 7mm scale, as I keep saying - the water is lovely! Overall, 10-12 feet is about the minimum for a terminus fiddle yard set up. Northport Quay is 7'6 of scenics, indicating 30" train length. You can get away with less if you use the fiddle yard as the entry cross over, as per several of Iain Rice's designs. Check out the Alphagraphix website for cheap ( proper Irish) wagon kits and more. The loco kits are designed for 32mm gauge as well. Think you are right to stick to freight only - coaches take up a lot of room and if you enjoy shunting, then 7mm scale is much easier and more fun. Enjoy the new toys and keep us posted!

For a mock up that is pretty darned good - but also very sensible, given the tolerances required. Must admit that I do most of my stuff on the hoof, as it were, but do make a lot of sketches to work out where things go and always draw out a new layout full size on lining paper. I also make lists of things to do, which I find helps getting stuff done in the right order.

Quality always sells, as the saying goes, so all power to your collective elbows.

Nice models JB, while we are all grateful for that hair shirt you wear! Such knowledge is so valuable and therefore essential it is used properly.

Many thanks! Was wondering where the steam exhaust went. The cab roof is only temporary, but will be drilled out to take a piece of brass pipe from the top of the boiler. Amused myself yesterday evening going through my spares boxes (just the six of them), looking for castings to adorn the boiler. Guess like most, I never throw anything away, so came up with quite a useful selection of taps, valves and the like. Most of these vertical boilers seemed to have a few scattered around, plus the all important water and pressure gauges. On the model, they will barely be seen inside the gloom of the cab, but hopefully will create an impression. That's the plan, anyway!

The last couple of photos made me realise that the winch section of the crane didn't look right, so cut down the side frames & added a pair of A frames to help brace the jib. I also realised that, even with a fixed jib, the crane would still need controls to move back and forth, and swing from side to side, as well as making the hook go up and down. Spent a fair bit of time looking at prototype photos, particularly ones of the more basic types & gradually formulated how this might be done. Rightly or wrongly, have come up with the following: A lever to control steam from the boiler entering the cylinders, including the ability to go back and forth A lever to move the main gearing from the winch to sloughing [turning] and moving the crane along. Gears for these last two are assumed to be linked by chain drive to drive the rail wheels and also slough the jib. A third lever to switch between the two above. The winch kit includes two levers, as well as a footbrake pedal, so the third lever comes from the spares box & is actually one from a signal cabin. The motor gearbox of the model needed to be kept hidden, hence the deep sides to the crane's chassis, but it seems appropriate to ensure there would be access on the real thing, so have added a couple of simple hinged covers, made from 20thou plastic. The jib itself is assumed to be two hefty girders, kept apart by steel crossbars - all plastic rod and strip on the model. The spares box came to the rescue again with a couple of pulleys for the top of the jib and to go on the winch. The bottom of the jib is held by a piece of 2mm brass rod, with a short piece of tube separating the girders here. The same method is used to keep the braces apart on the A frame. All a bit fanciful, but it seems to fit in with what photos are telling me - and none of it works, of course! This afternoon, added a water tank on one side of the cab and a coal bunker on the other, plus a mock up of the roof [not fixed yet], to try and give a better overall picture of what the model will look like when finished. A lot of dealing still needed, but it has [mostly] been good fun so far.

Have used Tortoise motors for 20 years and they never go wrong. However, being over 7cm deep you need similar baseboard framing. Not cheap either. Servos at the other end of the price scale and even with suitable circuit boards to control them, can work out pretty economical. The Megapoints system uses servos and offers bounce for signal arms and the like. Worth a look, but costs can quickly spiral, especially if you use the plug and play components. If you don't fancy electrickery, then wire in tune is both simple and cheap!