Horsetan

Clearly some phones are more flexible than others.

Sawing off the excess axle length means I have a grand total of ONE completed wheelset ....so I could start putting the coupling rods together: 2 layers for each rod. Aluminium hairgrip is all you need to keep 'em together during soldering: Then remove the rod from the fret in order to file down and clean up the excess solder: An evening's work: I think we'll start sawing out some chassis spacers next..... That would be a Chivas Regal 12-yr-old. It will be mostly empty by the time this engine is finished.

One wheel is mounted flush with the axle end: The other end shows the excess portion needing to be sawn-off: Easy job with a piercing saw. In this photo, you can see that I have test-quartered the wheels, with the offside (r/h) crank leading: For those who don't deal with steam, that basically means that when the engine moves forward, it's the right-hand crank that will come round first, followed 90 degrees later by the nearside (l/h) crank. I don't know yet whether right-hand lead is correct for the "S"-class. There were some British steam classes (I think the LNWR "G2A" 0-8-0 was an example) which had a left-hand crank lead, as does the Drewry "04" diesel shunter.

^ I don't get that at all.

I have enough trouble getting me head around 2D, never mind 3D.

Couldn't wait to test a pair of driving wheels on the Ultrascale lengthened axle: This shows the measurement over the wheel faces to be about 25mm, so if and when I order more driving axles from Ultrascale (think of the NCC "WT"), I can ask them to supply them at 25mm long as a reasonably standard length for Irish 5'3". There's supposed to be both a checkrail and a flangeway gauge in the Stores list. Tip: if you're stuck without the flangeway gauge, try substituting a spark plug feeler gauge, as there's usually one of the right thickness in the bunch. For example, one of the feeler "fingers" has a thickness of 0.58mm and this is dead-on correct for the flangeway in dead-scale (no compromise) Scalefour. It would also work for dead-scale 5'3" flangeways.

The correct back-to-back gauge arrived in today's post. I don't believe it.

lol

Frustrating, wha'?

They are Grand.

None anywhere on the screen - I've scrolled up, down, left and right. The phones I use are the LG GM360, and a Nokia C5.

That would be a challenge for any coach preservationists who want to restore it to the rails. Wonder what coach diagram it is?

I sometimes access the Forum via one or other of my mobiles (non-Apple), and have noticed that though it is perfectly possible to log-on and see the various sections and threads, I am only allowed to access the first page of every thread. There is no allowance made for seeing pages 2, 3, 4 and so on if a thread grows to more than one page. Is there a reason for this "page 1 only" appearance?

It's not so much the stock, but the basic tools to gauge wheels and rails.... If you can't get those, you can't really get started.

Three hundred-plus quid's a lot to pay. Mind, though, the Swiss HO electrics from HAG have been in that sort of territory for years, and they still run on 1970s motor technology.....

They seem to be out of quite a few 5'3"-related items. I'm just after having a message from Jeremy saying he thinks he's out of the back-to-back gauges as well (even though the online shop says they're available). Not good if you're wanting to make a start in 21mm.

Not sure what's happened, but can't see any photos here.

A bit like Forbes was doing on the CDR.

Here's a thread about the Voith Maxima model. I wonder who the manufacturer is.