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RedRich

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Everything posted by RedRich

  1. I hope they sell very well for you and they look great. I love the pic of 086 with the orange door. Rich,
  2. The kind of track that P4 Track Co and C&L produce varies. P4 Track Co produce as has been said before the track bases some with sleepers and chairs moulded you thread on the rail. Other sleepers in the range need to have chairs added and are available in plastic representing wooden sleepers, plastic panels representing Dow Mac concrete sleepers with pandrol clips fitted you thread on the flat bottom rail and ply sleepers which you again fit your chosen chairs to and thread on the rail. They also make point kits representing the different sizes A, B, C, D etc. C&L produce 1 meter lengths of bull head rail on thin sleepers to match their thin ply sleepers used for hand built track as well some new timber tracks bases for points laser cut all you do is add the rail and chairs. They also produce the switch blades and crossings ready built and machined for those who don't fancy any filling and soldering. With the use of gauges it's like putting a kit together but it depends on a bit of skill and how confident you feel. They also supply some of the other similar products in their range that P4 Track Co supply. I think it is universally agreed by most modellers that build their own track that P4 Track Co products are far superior. All these items are available in 00 EM AND P4 gauges. 00 is naturally the 16.5 mm track as you would most commonly see used and is the same gauge as Peco Hornby etc. EM is 18.2mm to try and more correctly model the 4 foot 8 and a half inches of the British prototype. P4 18.83 is the exact gauge. Nothing is produced for Irish 21mm gauge which is 5 foot 3 inches in the correct gauge and needs to be hand built. If you use Peco track at 16.5mm gauge it equates to track that is 4 feet wide which is 15 inches under gauge for correctly modelled Irish track. If the sleeper spacing is your only interest then I would advise you to ignore any of the above and get one of the fold up brass sleeper spacing gauges from Peter Harvey, cut some of the webbing on the Peco track and even though it isn't in true gauge at least the sleepers are correctly spaced and it will save lot's of cash and sleepless nights. Rich,
  3. That's a hell of a model Fran, the real deal only in America. Rich,
  4. Seamus and Rob to my utter regret I had started to run low on space on the memory card when I had shot that wagon. The yard (Waterford West) was full of activity that day. There was beet, bulk cement, liner, beer cages among others. The Dublin Waterford train arrived and left for the return journey. The weather that day was amazing for the time of year. I had intended to make another trip soon but I never did. Pretty soon most of the traffic had ceased and it's why I always say that we should photograph everything now as it will be history some day. Timber trains are all one is likely to see there now and who knows how long that will last. I have lots of photos pre digital days that still have the negatives and I hope to have them resized some day. It seems that the only way to recreate that kind of scene these days is to model it. Rich,
  5. I've seen these beer cage wagons with these type cages with both rectangular and round head buffers. It would be a matter of choosing which numbered wagon you would want to model. All of the wagons used for these cages had extra box iron on the top of the chassis for carrying those type of 90 keg cages. Rich,
  6. Tom it's all about doing research and looking through threads about the subject online, that's the most important part. Kadees are sold with draft boxes where you can fit the whole unit to the chassis of your chosen piece of stock. You need to cut a small piece of the headstock from the item of rolling stock and get a Kadee height gauge to judge the height the draft box and coupler need to be set at. In some cases this may involve using some plasticard spacers fitted to the floor of the chassis to achieve the correct height. Couplers are also available to fit directly into the NEM pockets on the rolling stock and come in several sizes and numbers. Lots of the lads use them on their coaching stock on here to great effect and will be more than happy to assist if you ask, that's why we're here. MK11 and MK111 rakes are usually permanent and semi fixed rakes on the prototype with the outer coach ends fitted with drop eye couplers lowered to enable the loco to be hooked to either end (a Generator Van or a passenger coach) depending on direction of travel via the screw link coupling on the rolling stock or loco. The other coaches and the inner ends of the outer coaches are permanently fixed with buckeye couplers. It really isn't that difficult to use this system once you are shown how by an existing user of the process. Some lads fit the buckeyes to locos permanently to enable run around sequences on their layouts without having to physically uncouple the rolling stock and at the same time fit as much of the skirts and pipes on the loco as they can and it looks great when it is done. Anthony has done a lot of this kind of conversion on his stock and it looks and works great. Anthony always posts these kind of conversions in his work bench thread and always gives great and friendly advice when asked. My advice would be to have a good look at his workbench thread as all the info you would require is there in photos and writing. Rich,
  7. I will but I better not let the missus see me doing it. Rich,
  8. It would be my first port of call Des. I love a challenge and seeing a great piece of engineering take shape and become something living. Rich,
  9. That's an excellent compromise with the hex spacers. The updates of the build are very informative and are a breath of fresh air as I haven't seen anything like it on here before regarding a 21mm build of a steam loco so well detailed and described. It's got me itching to have a go at something similar myself. Maplins are a great source for getting tools and other items for railway modelling. I've purchased wire for the electrics on previous layouts and the new build. Soldering irons, drill bits, transformers etc among countless other items needed for the hobby. I recently picked up a nice soldering fume extractor and some extra filters for a good price. Rich,
  10. Brian was very obliging and willing to carry out the work for me Anto during our conversation. As soon as production packs for the loco are produced I couldn't see why Brian would not make them available as a part of the Lazerglaze range for the 201 model. I will take this up with Brian on our next conversation and let people know here. More often than not these can be applied as a friction fit without adhesive to the model. I'm a bit inclined to maybe use some Johnson's Klear around the corners of the window apertures and let capiliary action help the glazing set. I't maybe not totally neccesary but I'd feel safer. It will certainly move the model a few steps up the ladder in detailing looks and that sounds good to me. Rich,
  11. Brian does all the work himself Rob in house. Things might require a little more time at this time of the year considering that we are in the height of the exhibition season. I think the laser glaze is as important an after sale detailing part as anything else we have had in the past from the cottage industry. People are using it in locos that are already factory flush glazed as it just looks more realistic and no matter how thick it looks to fit the window - windscreens on a model it looks ultra thin when fitted. I've seen it on Hornby or Lima MK111's with the correct extreme etchings window frames, and it brings the models to a new level of realism. I may use the Southern Pride Models MK111 bogie side frames on the MK111 trains as I will be using a modified version of the Jim Smith Wright (as sold by Brassmaster) bogie for 21mm wheelsets. Johnsons's Klear seems to have some great uses for the modeller and can be used when gluing clear plastic or acetate when the material is coated with the clear because if any fogging of the material occurs more Klear can be used to remove it. Klear seems an ideal product for using to hold the fitted glazing or name plates in place as it adheres to the model by capillary action and seems more efficient than varnish. As I've said I will be sending a 201 body to Brian soon for measuring and manufacture of the glazing. I had intended to have it produced for my own fleet but I don't see how it would be any problem for someone wishing to flush glaze their model to contact Brian themselves as all the spade work will have been done. I will leave the angular cabside windows as they are on the model and concentrate on the four windscreens and the other 4 cabside sliding windows nearest the doors. Although the four sliding windows aren't flush to the cabsides on the prototype they are considerably closer to the bodyside then they are represented on the model.I will have a go at creating the rubber seals on the 4 cabside sliding windows with microstrip if I can. If not I'll use some ultra thin paint lines to represent them. Hopefully and if time permits the waiting time won't be too long to have them produced. Rich,
  12. Fran the content of that link is very worrying. I am appalled at the state of the models and the packaging and to offer those models for sale to the modellers that have supported the manufacturer in their modelling lives is disgraceful. I think a lot of the problem has it's origin in the factory that produce the models. There have been too many models reaching the shelves with poor finishing and errors dimension wise over the last few years. It seems that if a manufacturer does not have someone on the ground in the factories where the models are produced, then you can have very little hands on input in the manufacturing process. By the time errors are spotted it's too late as the tooling has already been produced and to rectify the problems would lead to new tooling and more cost to the manufacturer. It's a bit uncertain at this time to hope that a top class model will be produced for the price it will sell for. It doesn't bode well. Rich,
  13. Fran I didn't have a chance to look at the link but I'm assuming you are talking about Pugsley (Martin McDermott) and his work. Pugsley's modelling especially his weathering techniques and use of different artists mediums oils, gouaches, powders, dry brushing etc is amazing. For anyone that feels a bit reluctant to shell out on an airbrush or compressor his uses of the other materials produce amazing results. His work is probably seen as an inspiration for many people to have a go at some modelling projects themselves. I would certainly put him on a par with Martin Welch and that is big praise. I followed the class 59 thread on RM web religiously and felt his pain as he really took the model to a new level. He worked on the side grille in brass on the mechanical end of the model and it produced a great result. The use of different gauges of wire and florists wire was fantastic, and he also used brass for the support struts on the main chassis. I remember seeing his class 47 loco weathering finish on Model Trains Weathered and he got some great praise from the American godfathers of the art. He also uses Model Color and Model Air acrylics in earthy tones and sandy colors to great effect and mixes all his own paint colors. The build of the Class 37 sprung bogies in 0 Gauge are in a different league. It's well worth a look for anyone wanting to learn and the chap is very friendly and always offers advice and encouragement to people. Rich,
  14. Lazerglaze makes a huge difference to a model as it removes the prismatic effect of the plastic glazing favored by the manufacturers. I am having some done for my 201's as the non flush glazing on the windscreens just looks poor and plastic looking on the models. I'll be sending over a body for measuring and manufacture of the glazing soon. This was all meant to be undertaken during July but due to other circumstances I had to delay it. Rich,
  15. There are many different companies producing rtr track In 00 EM and P4. C&L, P4 Track Company (Exactoscale) SMP. There are several different ways to build your own track using components from the above mentioned companies and Peco. Some of the P4 Track Co bases have chairs and you thread on the rail as has been mentioned before. Other track bases and panel lengths for LMS GWR etc are available and you thread separate chairs 4 bolt 3 bolt 2 bolt depending on what railway you are modelling on to the rail and with the use of gauges and pips on the track panel you glue the chairs on with Butanone. There are also ply sleepers available from suppliers and some people use these attached the same as above or sleepers are produced with holes for rivets to be fitted and the rail is soldered to the rivets. You can then cut chairs in half and fit them cosmetically. There are also fish plates available. Flat bottom rail soldered to copper clad sleepers is also a popular choice among modellers. P4 Track Company (Exactoscale) are being taken over by C&L Finescale at the moment and their products will be introduced to that companies website when time allows. If you want any more info don't be afraid to ask. Rich,
  16. Thats a great piece of work Fran and very informative. I love the class 59's myself, very close to our own 201's. Rich,
  17. Thanks for that Wiggy. Where there's a will there's a way. Rich,
  18. Probably the most requested BR model on wish lists ever. It looks like a winner from the pre production shots. Rich,
  19. Fran I also think that there was one of the earlier ones in Foster Yeoman and DB Schenker blue and red livery loaned to DB Schenker. I also think the light clusters were different on the earliest builds and one of them had a bell on the cab. Good news about the laptop I look forward to the blog update. I may replace the pc with a laptop eventually, a 17" monitor would be preferable, any tips. Rich,
  20. I wonder could it or the CMX one be converted to 21mm. Rich,
  21. Ah the Floyd Richie. A man after my own heart. What a history they have had, the Syd Barret era, the Dark Side of The Moon to the Wall. Roger Waters leaving and the legal aftermath. Live 8 in 2005 is one of the gretest moments from the history of popular music when Gilmore, Waters, Wright, and Mason reformed for the show. I am listening to wish you were here at the moment. Rich,
  22. Now this has really got my attention. Anto I have no doubt that you will produce a first class 59 from this project. I am assuming that it is a 59-2 class. You have all the ammunition needed for such a project. Have a good look at some class 59 pictures especially the outer ends of the bogies as they may need some extra bits added. If you can come across an A1 models class 59 detailing kit along the way snap it up. It would include brass roof grille, side grilles, chassis skirt etc. A set of class 66 sprung buffers would look nice also. I think it's great that yourself and Fran (working on his American loco) are working on projects like this at the moment. This is what modelling is all about and more people should be having a go and testing themselves. If things aren't going as planed don't give in relax and try again. Anthony and Fran didn't get to the point where they are ready to tackle something like this without trying and having a go. As I said I have 100% faith that this will be a winner, and my own personal hope is that more people will be inspired to have a go at something similar. You don't know until you try. Rich,
  23. I'd have thought Bachmann would have been the most likely candidate Fran. The model doesn't look bad at all, the bogies look quite good compared to the previous incarnation from Lima. It makes you wonder will they still produce that in the Railroad range. Rich,
  24. Confidence and willpower, I reckon you'll be fine. Rich,
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