irishthump

At least you know the loco is ok! You can program a 4 function chip to work the directional lights and the headlights but you still won't have the cab lights so a 6 function is the best solution. Sound decoder wise, I'd go for the Murphy Models sound decoder. It's a Loksound but I find they perform better.

Then I'm pretty sure the cab lights need 2 separate functions to work properly. One for forward the other for reverse. There's nothing wrong with the loco itself, you just need a decoder with enough functions. It's Bachmann chip you're using right now?

Ok. So does the cab light come on at the radiator end when you change direction?

It's basic, but it's a good system. As far as I know the F2 button is set to only work as long as it's pressed down. Let's go from the start. What happens when you press keys F0 - F4? And if F2 makes the cab light come on at one end what happens when you change the direction of the loco?

On a side note, I see a lot of complaining about the archaic nature of DCC and the reluctance of manufacturers (specifically US companies) to catch up to more modern technology. One thing that's overlooked here is that when the NMRA laid down their standards for DCC they insisted on any DCC systems being completely interchangeable (and backward-compatible)with newer systems. A good thing, IMHO. The last thing you want is a handful of companies selling different products that are not compatible.

At least the Iphones work!

And if Steve Jobs had anything to do with DCC it would have worked great and been user friendly but you'd have to buy Apple locos......

Spot on. The Lokprogrammer lets you programme CV's with a selection of drop-down menus similar to Decoderpro. When you've made all the changes you want the CV's are programmed in a couple of seconds.

No you're right. I meant to say cab lights in my above post. Also, the function outputs differ slightly between the 071's and 201's. It's a bit hazy, as I haven't had to programme one for a while, but I think the headlights need 2 functions on the 071 and 1 function on the 201.

Maybe, but they are there and they're supposed to work!

Check for wires going between the tender and the loco. If there is a lot of them it would indicate the decoder is in the body.

I don't think there is a problem with the loco. What decoder are you using and which DCC system do you have? The reason I ask is: 1) The decoder probably does'nt have enough function outputs. The headlights requires 2 separate functions for them to work in both directions. This is the reason it only works at one end. 2) The reason F2 has to be held down is because of the DCC controller. A lot of brands set F2 to only operate as long as it's pressed (This is because most sound decoders assign the horn to F2.)

Just as well.... don't have the cash for a pair of 121's right now!

Have to agree, it's a cracking job. It will be a good runner too (even with the stock Athearn mechanism) as long as you use the right decoder.

I'd be very wary of not looking into it further. There could be a problem with the PCB or maybe a loose wire somewhere in the loco. Although the fact that it happened in both locos would make a PCB fault more likely. Also, if the locos were'nt ran for some time were they stored in a cold/damp environment? That could cause a buildup of moisture. Personally I would open the loco and have a look, the body is tight fitting and could trap a wire against the chassis. Also check how the decoder is sitting on the PCB. Esu decoders tend to sit a little high which can result in metal on metal contact when the body is placed on top.

So did you need to perform the decoder reset or did the problem go away on it's own?

That's unlikely, Noel. Those switches are basically on/off and would'nt really be able to affect the cab lights the way the OP has described.

These decoders can be programmed to make the lights behave like this. As you say, probably more prototypical the way it is.

Try resetting the decoders to factory settings by entering a value of 8 to CV8. Decoders can sometimes behave peculiarly if they have'nt been run for a while.

Bleedin' masterpiece!

Having notching assigned to high numbered function keys is only part of the problem, you also have to aware of how notching works within the sound file. Once you activate notching up it will remain active until the function key(s) are pressed again. It can also take a second or two to activate so you need about of practice to get the feel of how it operates. Assigning the notch functions to lower keys makes it a lot easier. Again, this is a much easier process with the Lokprogammer.

I forgot to mention. The MM 071 Loksound decoders have a notch up/down feature which allows you to change the engine sound independent from the loco's speed. You can notch right down to idle without altering the speed at all.

Yes. You can play back the various sound functions but you can't really see how the loco drives without having it on the track.

Yes, they use the same files.

For what it's worth, the Lokprogrammer will set you back about €120, basically the cost of one MM 071 chip, but it's probably the best investment I've made. I can overwrite any of my Loksound decoders so I'm not stuck with sounds I don't like. Also, blank Loksound decoders can be got for €100 each plus free shipping.