Jump to content

irishthump

Members
  • Posts

    1,829
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by irishthump

  1. Not around as much lately but Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to one and all.....
  2. Or maybe they could just treat us to a look at their own scratch-building/modifying skills?
  3. Steam vs. Diesel? No contest!
  4. Thought so. The 071 has a different pcb to the 201.
  5. Does that give you directional headlights or do still have to turn them on and off at each end yourself?
  6. Whoa! And the Lazarus award for thread necromancy goes to.....
  7. Ya gets what ya pays or and all that!
  8. Just to clarify, did that change I suggested move the other light to F3? The problem is the MM chip (ESU Lokpilot) is higher spec than the Lais or Bachmann which are budget decoders (fine for normal use but lacking extra features). Having said that the Lais have a lot of programming options for lighting effects like gyro lights, dimming and strobes but these are aimed at US modellers.
  9. Yeah the TCS looks the same too. The Lais manual is a carbon copy of the Gaugemaster DCC25. It looks like Dave's problem is actually the controller's F2 not being a latching function.
  10. Not sure about the function mapping on the Bachmann, have to look into it. The Lais works fine on the 141 because there's only 2 lighting functions to be mapped, the 071/201's have 4.
  11. I don't think there's way to get them to change directionally with that decoder. You'll have to settle for turning them on and off at each end.
  12. Try changing CV 36 to 16. That should move that headlight to F3 instead.
  13. That's your problem. F2 on the Prodigy is "non-latching" so it only stays on while pressed down. All the other function buttons stay on when pressed once. You need to move it to another function button. Give us a few mins....
  14. OK. You're using a Gaugemaster Prodigy or NCE Powercab? When you say flashing do you mean it only stays on when you keep the button pressed or is it actually flashing on and off?
  15. OK. Taking the Lais decoder first, I'm guessing you have front and back marker lights on F0? And do the lights at one end come stay on when you press F2 or F3?
  16. Noel, Which decoder are you using in the 071/201? The Lais decoder seems to have the exact same manual as the Gaugemaster decoders which means they can be a bit limited when trying to map the lighting functions.
  17. And sorry, which loco 201, 071?
  18. Dave, What brand of decoder are you using? Those instructions were for the Loksound decoders.
  19. Yep, I just got the email warning me that third party hosting would be disabled soon, so all future pics will be local copies. But I'm afraid I'm in no rush to update any of the other links.... Oh and Photobucket can kiss my **s!
  20. Thanks Noel! Yes it runs better than I expected. The only gripe was that I wasn't able to rig the headlights to a different function on the decoder so I just settled for the marker/tail lights. I'd have to check which horn I used, but I plan to change the brake sound anyway as it sounds a bit naff!
  21. That's what I thought myself DV! Did you get your own A Class finished?
  22. Finally got the fibre optics fitted for the lights and installed the sound decoder, so it's all finished bar the weathering! Here's a quick video of it in action shunting a few bogie flats. As you can see the slow running is very good. The soundfile is actually an EMD 567 rather than the 645 that was fitted to the A class but I think it sounds pretty good, please let me know what you guys think.... [video=youtube;ih9y-3Lr-gc]
  23. Ok, very nearly there! All glazing, buffers and detail parts have been attached, sound chip has been installed and is working fine but needs to have a suitable file loaded to it. I also attached steps to the bogies, these were made from repurposed HO caboose ladders. Here's some pics of 019 sitting on the tracks.... I had a bit of an issue with the lighting. Specifically, the Hornby PCB that I used is wired with a negative common as opposed to a positive. My homemade led boards were wired positive so they had to be scrapped. I installed the boards and soldered in the connections. To prevent light bleed I gave the boards and leds several coats of primer then drilled small holes in the top of each led, fibre optic strands will be fitted into the marker/tailights when all else is done! Here's a couple of pics of the chassis with the lights activated:
  24. Not a hope...
  25. And they won't be clogging up the f*cking M50 at rush hour, which is from 9am-7pm in this country!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use