irishthump

Neither the function mapping or the function latching are adjustable in the controller. The function mapping (which function key controls which function) is adjustable by reprogramming decoder cv's.

I can give you a list of cv's to change if you're comfortable with programming the loco yourself.

I doubt it's either of those as they are both 4 function decoders and as Noel said you need 6 functions to get all the lights to work. They are also both 8 PIN chips so wouldn't fit the 201 without an adaptor. If you have a programming track you can read back CV8 which will give the manufacturer number, at least we'll know what brand it is. But at a guess if it was fitted by Mark's I would imagine it is the Murphy Models decoder which is an ESU.

The problem is with the controller, the Prodigy has the F2 button assigned to be momentary function. That is it only stays on as long as the button is pressed. Double check by holding down the function key. This can be changed on some controllers but not the Prodigy. The prodigy is an American controller so it is designed to take account of the fact that most American DCC sound decoders have the horn assigned to F2. Since it was working on the Select I would say you have the correct type of decoder (6 function), but the only way to fix the problem is to assign the headlight to a different function key. This is not too difficult be we need to know exactly what brand of decoder you are using. A decoder reset will do nothing in this case.

No, definitely not. I've converted a load of those old Athearns and doing all the hard work only to see the chip go up in smoke is enough to drive anyone round the twist!

For years people would'nt believe this was real, until their locos started to come apart at the seams..... It's caused by the PVA absorbing moisture which makes the lead oxidise. It can be prevented by varnishing over the PVA if the damage has'nt already occurred. This reaction only happens with lead, so if you're using fishing shot (which is no longer lead) you should be alright. I'm not sure if Liquid Lead is actually made from real lead, but I would'nt take the chance so use superglue!

A cheaper a more readily available alternative is curtain wire: You can use this as the tube and guitar strings make a suitable material for the wire controlling the points.

Richard, here's a link to a video I posted demonstrating the Full Throttle features.... http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/5839-Loksound-Full-Throttle-A-quick-demo

Nice job Noel. I never had the cajones to cut up any of my 141's so I settled for the drop in speaker option! It sounds good but like you said I don't think it justifies the work involved. On a slightly pedantic note: that particular GM engine sound is the EMD 567 which was fitted to the 141's and 121's so it isn't prototypical for a 181 which were fitted with the EMD 645. There is a 645 sound file available from ESU.

As far as I know DC Kits (courtesy of Legomambiffo) can supply them with the Full Throttle features, but you would need to contact them as they only list UK sounds with those features. Otherwise you can download the files from ESU yourself and programme your own Loksound decoders if you get the Lokprogrammer.

A very merry Christmas to all!

Never had the pleasure, Seamus, but it's always a sad day when an Irish retailer has to call it a day. Happy Christams and the best of luck in whatever lies ahead.

Let's face it, Dave. That's every night when you get to your age!

And easier to ween yourself off of as well....

Looks like about a kilo of heroin....

Try using T-Cut on a cotton bud or Q tip. Use a VERY small amount on the cotton bud and stroke the decal very gently to prevent any damage to the underlying paint. Go slowly, it takes a while but eventually the decal will be removed. Once it's gone, take a clean cotton bud and gently polish away the remaining T Cut.

Just to clarify; The process of selecting and driving a loco is straightforward enough but the process of programming CV's is a bit of a rigmaroll with the Powercab! Especially when compared to the simple couple of key presses needed on the likes of the Gaugemaster. BS819 - Don't let that scare you though! The NCE is excellent and will do all you need and it's almost within your budget. If at all possible if you can find a way to actually try the systems for yourself that would be the best thing but of course that's not too practical so I suggest you have a look on Youtube as there are many video reviews showing the operation of the various DCC systems.

Hi BS819, Although the Gaugemaster system is a fair bit over your suggested budget (it's selling now for around €200) I would recomment it for it's ease of use. The NCE Powercab can be got for around 150 Sterling but isn't as user friendly, although it is an excellent system and will do all you need it to do. It also provides less power, Gaugemaster is a 3.5amp system Powercab 2 amp. But this will only be a problem if you plan on running a lot of locos. There are a couple of other DCC systems such Lenz or Roco which I don't have any direct experience of but I believe are very good as well. Some other members who use them may be able to help though. One piece of advice you will hear a lot is to steer clear of DCC controllers from model train companies suce as Hornby or Bachmann. These would fall well within your budget but you won't find many favorable reviews! Speaking from experience hear, I had the Hornby Select which can only be described as Cheap-And-Not-So-Cheerful!

Ah come on! If you're gonna make a lightsaber you've got to go METAL!

Hi, TDR. I use the Prodigy 2 myself and I think it's excellent. It's more simple to use than a lot of other DCC systems (all the info you'll really need is printed on the back of the throttle!) and it provides 3.5 amps of power which is more than enough for 3 locos fitted with sound. As a general rule of thumb a single, non-sound loco will use about .25 amps while a sound loco will pull about .50 to .60 amps. This is assuming you're using good quality, modern models with decent motors, some of the older ones can pull up to 1 amp. Either way, you have more than enough juice!

Jayzus, that's stunning work, Eoin!

Ooooh! Aaah! Don't think I can make it, bit of a twinge in the auld back! You know yourself....

Sounds fantastic! I hope there's plans for an IRM Open Day.....

Wonderful news, Dave! Personally, I don't think I could resist the temptation to just use the spce for a huge layout...