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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. irishthump
    I actually have that book, think it's time to read it again! Thanks for the advise Weshty, but I already picked up some 2 aspect signals... SORRY!
  2. irishthump
    To hell with a rolling road! Use the need for a test track as an excuse to build a seperate track!
  3. irishthump
    I would agree, a harness would get in the way with the limited space inside the narrow body. Here's a TCS 21 pin without a harness, should do the job. http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=4721 I recently picked up another 141 and decided to just put a non-sound decoder in it. (My other 3 141s are all DCC sound chipped.) I ended up using a Hornby Sapphire that I had lying around, works fine.More expensive than the Bachmann, but I think it has a few extra programming features.
  4. irishthump
    Here's the basic layout from my control panel to give you an idea. I plan to put station platforms on the double main line somewhere between the two crossovers. The siding directly above the mainline will also be served by one of the platforms.
  5. irishthump
    Folks, Now that I'm installing my point motors I wanted to add some basic signalling to the layout. The SEEP point motors have the built in polarity switch so I added the wiring to allow LEDs to be ran from them. Can you guys give me any advice on how the signalling should operate? ie placement and type of signals around mainline crossovers and sidings etc... It does'nt have to be strictly prototypical at all. I think I will be pretty much limited to 2 aspect signals, and wondering how to best incorporate them.
  6. irishthump
    Welcome man, Anto is a Powercab user and from what he has said there should be more than enough power for running those 4 trains at once. I'm sure he'll chime in at some stage with more info for you. I only got back into the hobby myself after 20+ years, and decided very early on to go the DCC route. I myself went for the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 and it more than meets my requirements. But shop around and get as much advice as you can before deciding on a system. There are a couple of other threads about this subject in the Q+A section, have a read!
  7. irishthump
    Yep, absolutely stunning stuff...
  8. irishthump
    Got started on the wiring... Managed to get 3 points wired up and working before the heat in the attic overcame me! Using mainly SEEP motors but because a couple of the points are right above baseboard supports I ended up using Hornby surface mounted motors, but they seem to be working fine.
  9. irishthump
    SEEP point motors through a CDU.
  10. irishthump
    Made a start on the control panel today; used car lining tape to make the track diagram then drilled holes and attached the point switches. Progress so far... I also placed a switch next to my programming track so I can drive locos onto the track normally. A lot of soldering to be done tomorrow!!!
  11. irishthump
    Here, here!!!
  12. irishthump
    Thanks for the kind comments, lads! The flowing curves really came about as the shpae of the layout did'nt lend itself to Settrack geometry. I basically could'nt get it to fit in the available space, so I used Flextrack instead! Have to say though. nicer to work with in general than standard pieces.
  13. irishthump
    You mean the ones outside the engine shed? If I remember right I actually used rust coloured pastels ground into powder with sandpaper.
  14. irishthump
    These shots give a better view of the overall layout... Where the fat controller sits...
  15. irishthump
    Here are a few pics of my layout at last! Finally decided on the trackplan after a lot of tweaking. It's not perfect but it's as good as I think it will get with the space I have available... It's basically a double loop in an L shape. Here's one view, towards the main engine shed. And if you pan to the right, you have the freight sidings. A few more pics of the shed (based loosely on Connolly!) Excuse the English Class 25, but I recently treated myself to that one. It's DCC sound fitted and a great little model. A couple of "night shots!"
  16. irishthump
    I feel your pain! Or do you get that other one - "Are you coming down yet?" Right when you're under the baseboards trying to solder a joint!
  17. irishthump
    Turn the iron on when it heats up wipe it on a damp sponge or cloth. Tin it by melting a little solder onto the tip and letting it flow over it. Leave it on until it stops giving off smoke then wipe the tip on the sponge again. That should do it....
  18. irishthump
    Welcome, Sulzer! As a fellow "attic-bound" modeller have to say it's great to see another member coping with the horrors of attic trusses! Can you post more pics to show us the full layout?
  19. irishthump
    Dirt, plain and simple. The tip has to be spotlessly clean and well tinned to transmit maximum heat.
  20. irishthump
    Thanks for clarifying that Anto! Yep, I had been given a bum steer for sure on that other forum. If I had asked you on here first I would have bought the Powercab. Although I have no complaints about the Prodigy.
  21. irishthump
    Sorry Anto, I have been misinformed! Here's what I have been told on another forum... If you leave 2 locos running and enter the address of a 3rd one then one drops out of the recall stack as we know. If you then reenter the address of the loco that dropped out of the stack then the loco will not remember it's speed setting and will stop. That's exactly what I was told and I had more or less decided on buying the Powercab at that stage.... Talk about being given a bum-steer!
  22. irishthump
    Well if the budget is set in stone then he would probably be better off with the Powercab.
  23. irishthump
    What he said! The Powercab only has a recall of 2 locos. Now I'm not 100% sure, but I think that means when you run 2 locos and type in the address of a 3rd one, one of the other 2 gets dropped from the stack and stops running. Can anyone with a Powercab confirm this?
  24. irishthump
    Take your time and get as much info as possible, I was glad I did! BTW, the Prodigy Advance has 3A which was another reason I went for it. As for running multiple locos - modern locos draw less power so this is'nt surprising. But you will see problems trying to run several sound equipped locos. All depends on your plans for the future, but 1.5A is a bit limiting IMHO. One thing is fo sure, get rid of the Select!
  25. irishthump
    Just curious, is she up for sale, Dave?
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