irishthump

Dirt, plain and simple. The tip has to be spotlessly clean and well tinned to transmit maximum heat.

Thanks for clarifying that Anto! Yep, I had been given a bum steer for sure on that other forum. If I had asked you on here first I would have bought the Powercab. Although I have no complaints about the Prodigy.

Sorry Anto, I have been misinformed! Here's what I have been told on another forum... If you leave 2 locos running and enter the address of a 3rd one then one drops out of the recall stack as we know. If you then reenter the address of the loco that dropped out of the stack then the loco will not remember it's speed setting and will stop. That's exactly what I was told and I had more or less decided on buying the Powercab at that stage.... Talk about being given a bum-steer!

Well if the budget is set in stone then he would probably be better off with the Powercab.

What he said! The Powercab only has a recall of 2 locos. Now I'm not 100% sure, but I think that means when you run 2 locos and type in the address of a 3rd one, one of the other 2 gets dropped from the stack and stops running. Can anyone with a Powercab confirm this?

Take your time and get as much info as possible, I was glad I did! BTW, the Prodigy Advance has 3A which was another reason I went for it. As for running multiple locos - modern locos draw less power so this is'nt surprising. But you will see problems trying to run several sound equipped locos. All depends on your plans for the future, but 1.5A is a bit limiting IMHO. One thing is fo sure, get rid of the Select!

Just curious, is she up for sale, Dave?

I thought the same thing. I started with a Hornby Mixed freight set, which ran lovely so I could'nt understand the complaints. I soon found out that the Select will run fine with it's own decoders that are installed in it's locos. The problems start when you run other makes of decoder on the Select. Likewise when I started running the locos from the set with my Prodigy Advance, crap running right from the start.

You will find that ther systems don't need to have their firmware updated because it works properly! That just proves what they say about DCC systems made by train set manufacturers.

When you say Decoder I assume you mean controller? Then yes, they both have more than enough.

The Gaugemaster Prodigy Express is available for £124 from Hattons. http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/45/8/73/0/Gaugemaster_Controls_Any_or_multiple_scales_DCC_control_equipment_and_points_decoders/prodlist.aspx Also the NCE powercab can be got for £131. http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd-670066615.htm?categoryId=89 I went for Gaugemaster but bought the Advance 2, and I would highly recommend it if your budget can stretch the extra few quid. I was thinking about the Powercab myself but was turned off it by the fact you can only have 2 locos in the recall stack. A problem they were going to address but not sure if they have done it yet. Anthony is a Powercab user and he speaks highly of it, so maybe he can give more info. A word of warning about using the Selecty with sound decoders! I had three 141/181 chips which malfunctioned on me and I have an idea it was something to do with the Select. Search the Web for reports of Select problems, the list is frightening... Likewise with the Dynamis, the general opinion is to steer clear of "Train Set" DCC controllers and go for a dedicated DCC manufacturer's system.

Just a word of thanks to Model Shop Belfast for their help and service. Had some problems with my 141 sound decoders (which may well have been my own fault!) but got in touch with Gareth and he arranged to replace them for me. No hassle, no quibble even though I had bought them a few months ago. They arrived today and are working great! Thanks again Gareth.

Spot on, Eamonn. I have one of those Halfords irons as well, just be sure clean and tin the tip when you are finished. I've done a heap of soldering on my layout and I'm still on the tip I got with the iron.

Thanks man. I can live with the flickering on the tails lamps, but I'm considering fitting a couple of those to my 2 Hornby locos. They're both 0-6-0 and can struggle on some of my pointwork.

I would agree. I started back into the hobby with the Hornby Mixed freight set, and the track mat is great for getting a feel for track laying in general. The Hornby points can be a bit iffy but the rest of their track is fine for general use, when I started my attic layout I used Peco points and relegated the Hornby ones to the lesser used sidings. Like Mayner said be careful with tight curves when running long locos and coaches, the 2 outer curves on the track mat are fine, but longer stock will struggle with the tightest curve.

I am looking for Kadee no 308 is that right? Bloody typical! Could'nt find them for love nor money last time I looked...

Yeah, but I'm having trouble locating them, just wondering if there was an alternative.

Lads, I have been experimenting with various methods of coupling/uncoupling on my layout. I had been using using the Brian Kirby method, for any of you unfamiliar with it here's a video showing how it works. It's easy, cheap and works very well but it involves fitting magnets under the track at every place you may need to uncouple. I boight a few Kadee no. 20's off Ebay just to give them a try and I have to admit they seem great, if a little fiddly! Just looking for some advice from anyone who uses them; which magnets do you guys use for uncoupling? I have been experimenting with square magnets from cupboard latches which is what the Kirby ones use but they're a bit unreliable for the Kadees.

I don't think it makes a difference if you run it in on DCC. I think the reason manufacturers recommend you run in on DC before converting to DCC is so that you can be sure the loco is running properly before you chip it. If you install the chip and it does'nt work, at least you'll know it's not the loco!

On the subect of running in; I gave each of my 141s a run of about 45 mins in each direction (without any coaches or wagons) on DC before fitting them with DCC decoders. You can actually hear the diefference in the motor, it runs more smoothly and quietly.

I can't seem to get the hang of removing the bodies by squeezing the sides either. My own method (after removing front cab) is to turn the loco upside down, you can get at the tabs that hold the body on if you turn the bogies to the side. It's then a simple matter of easing the tabs away one by one and the body comes off easily. Another advantage of doing it this way is that you don't need to remove the side railings.

Have to agree Anto. A very light weathering would set this loco off perfectly. It just would'nt be right to have a spotless loco on a detailed layout like yours, it just seems out of place.

Your wallet will be opened as well!

Did you go with the Advance 2? I have one myself and it's a great piece of kit.

How about these... OK, I know one is a 181....