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Darius’ Workbench

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Darius43

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For the next MTK project I thought I would take things relatively easy and build the 2-HAL Stores Unit kit using some spare Hornby 2-BIL/HAL underframes to make things easier.

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The parts for the non-cab ends are missing from the kit so I will need to scratch build those from plasticard.

Having already built the MTK 2-HAL De-icer unit this one should be relatively straightforward.  The large roller doors are quite recessed on the prototype so the MTK “flush” ones will need to be cut out and replaced.

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Cab and roof attached and fettled to shape.

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Non-cab end made from plasticard and glued in place.

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Checking the MTK body against the Hornby HAL it’s a few mm shorter.

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This means it won’t fit onto the spare Hornby chassis that I had earmarked for this kit.  Not to worry as I’ll make my own chassis as before.  Fortunately I still have sufficient spare bogies to hand.

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The other advantage to making my own chassis (apart from the fit) is that, unlike the Stores Units, the Hornby ones have continuous step boards.  They would need to be removed, which is not that simple as the Hornby motorised chassis is cast Mazak including the step boards.

Cheers

Darius

Edited by Darius43
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  • 4 weeks later...

@Darius43 Amazing work all round, I am interested in your seat upholstery patterns. Where did you source them, looking at your posts I have the impression they are printed on label sheets where you can peel off the backing.

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Hi Tim,

I printed the upholstery patterns on white decal paper using a laser printer and then cut out and applied them to the seats as a regular decal - see one of the earlier posts on this thread.

The upholstery pattern “swatches” are on This Website.

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Cheers

Darius

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Hi Darius,

Thanks for the information on the upholstery, I found the earlier references. As others have said, you are prolific. You must have some great references to work from.
What glue do you use to glue the etched sides to the cutback plastic coach sides? 
 

Tim

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Hi Tim,

I use superglue.  The top edge above the windows is glued first and clamped with bulldog clips.  Once that edge is set the centre and bottom edge are glued and clamped.  Excess glue squeezed out is quickly wiped away with kitchen roll paper.

Cheers

Darius

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On 3/4/2024 at 11:51 PM, TimO said:

....As others have said, you are prolific. ...

It's almost as if he senses that his time upon this Earth is limited, so he's going to build as many models as possible in the remaining lifespan....!

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3 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

It's almost as if he senses that his time upon this Earth is limited, so he's going to build as many models as possible in the remaining lifespan....!

I’m not sure if I should “like” this post or not…

Hang on, I can hear a bell tolling.

Cheers

Darius

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31 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

I’m not sure if I should “like” this post or not…

Hang on, I can hear a bell tolling.

Arthur Kimber, the man behind the Northeastern Kits range of 4mm scale etched brass NER locomotives, is in his 90s and apparently still designing new kits, so.....

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2 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

Arthur Kimber, the man behind the Northeastern Kits range of 4mm scale etched brass NER locomotives, is in his 90s and apparently still designing new kits, so.....

That’s reassuring. Roger Crombleholme, who bought a standard gauge loco for preservation in 1965, is also still actively designing Irish kits :) 

3 minutes ago, Galteemore said:

That’s reassuring. Roger Crombleholme, who bought a standard gauge loco for preservation as long ago as 1965, is also still actively designing Irish kits :) 

 

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