Basic weathering

[Peter]

Afternoon folks,

I'm looking to do some basic weathering to these 2 n gauge locos. I still have to attach some parts and apply transfers. What would be a simple way to weather them to take the new orange paint look away? This will be my first time weathering, I don't have an airbrush either. Or are there videos you recommend online for basic weathering?

Thanks very much, Peter

[Galteemore]

Hi Peter - nice work! Less is more here. Look at photos and see where the dirt gathers in real life. An easy first step is a dirty wash. Dilute some acrylic black paint down with thinners and wash it over the body. Then wipe over with a cloth or cotton buds when wet. The dark colouring will settle in the cracks and crevices and bring immediate definition to the model. After that a little gentle work with powders will work wonders. Go slowly and don’t overdo it. 

[Peter]

Thanks for the advice. 

My first attempt didn't go so well  

That's a 1:1 mix of water and flat black acrylic paint on another model. I used a cloth and cotton buds to take the paint off but if dried too quickly. Back to the drawing board. 

[murphaph]

Use an enamel wash and you will have hours of working time. You can also just make something similar using oil paints + turps but the drying time will be even longer than with enamels. You can buy ready made enamel washes. Then take off with a cotton bud (after it has dried a bit, maybe an hour or overnight) or those make up sponge things. I think they are for mascara. You can use turps or similar to more aggressively remove (assuming your paintjob is acrylic and not oil or enamel based).

Edit: Your models are great but with the stratification you are maybe always going to struggle with washes pooling in those layers where they wouldn't in reality.

Edited January 12, 2023 by murphaph

[Mayner]

Before deciding whether its worthwhile weathering N Gauge models its best to consider the level of weathering/dirt visible on a loco and stock at normal viewing distance.

American diesels seldom look weathered or dirty at normal viewing distance in N. Pride in corporate image and climate helps!

 

Similar climatic conditions and maintenance/cleaning regime to Ireland. 

Otira Tunnel banking locos leading consist, pilot trains through a 5¼ mile tunnel and after a short time become dirtier than locos working over the Midland Line from the Westland to Christchurch

Early 90s Sligo-Dublin reasonably clean 121 moderately weathered 141, clean coaches

N Gauge diesels custom painted finished with satin lacquer (both aerosol) stock un-weathered

[David Holman]

Looks like very useful advice to me, John. A matt finish to body work and a bit of light use of weathering powders to roof and bogies maybe all that is needed.

 Interesting to reflect on the techniques require in the various scales, while dealing with 3D prints seems to require an approach all of its own!

[Peter]

Thanks for the advice folks. 

Phil, I see Humbrol do a dark brown enamel wash. Someone in a youtube video recommended that as well for n scale. I'll give that a go. 

John, I took the train from Greymouth to Christchurch in 2015. That was some scenic journey. 

David, I'll give the weathering powders a go as well. 

[Galteemore]

Great stuff Peter. The military modellers in particular have some brilliant products - Mig Jimenez being one brand I use a lot.  Re powders, this advice is helpful https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/specialised-model-accessories/weathering-powders-and-materials/

[Northroader]

For weathering powders I go to an artists shop, and buy sticks of pastel chalk. Rub one on some emery paper and you get some fine powder. Scatter this lightly over where you want, then brush it over with a dry fine hair paintbrush. Usually I go for umber, burnt sienna, orange, tan brown, and black. More on the undercart and ends. It can be washed off with soapy water if you dont like it.

[Galteemore]

22 minutes ago, Northroader said:

For weathering powders I go to an artists shop, and buy sticks of pastel chalk. Rub one on some emery paper and you get some fine powder. Scatter this lightly over where you want, then brush it over with a dry fine hair paintbrush. Usually I go for umber, burnt sienna, orange, tan brown, and black. More on the undercart and ends. It can be washed off with soapy water if you dont like it.

Any photos pls - sounds good!!

[JasonB]

Hi Peter, 

Washes and powders are fine normally, but because of the layered finish of the print, you need to be a little more cautious when using them. 

Powders can be less forgiving on rougher surfaces, and are also prone to staining a model when trying to remove them, if you've gone overboard with the application.  

[Northroader]

On 13/1/2023 at 4:49 PM, Galteemore said:

Any photos pls - sounds good!!

Here’s a recent beer van, and I think if you paint a wagon white, and stick it in a goods train, you’re asking for trouble. Anyway, being white, you can pick up what’s been done easier. Mainly a wash with very diluted Matt black, far more white spirit than paint,  then some black and brown chalk, more on the ends. A bit of mainly brown brushed crosswise on the roof, and a bit of brown on the axleguards. Looking at my Irish pregroup, it’s a bit too clean for a weathering thread!

[Noel]

If you don't have an airbrush you can do just as well using watered down weathering powders, brush on swab off using cotton buds but this only worlds well on smooth plastic surfaces, not so well on pitted 3D surfaces (ie dried toothpaste texture). Adding some decal fix to the water solution enables you to reactivate the dried powders and rework again and again if you are not happy with the results. Have fun. Its a wonderful learning process.