Slow MM 071

[controller]

Hi, I bought a MM 071 sometime in 2014. It ran very slow. I brought it back to the shop, as I was not happy with it's performance. They changed the decoder and gave it a test run. They said it ran fine . I have no permanent layout, so I only run the few locos I have occasionally . I ran it today and it ran very slowly. I assume it was replaced with a MM decoder. If I was to replace it with a more expensive decoder would it improve the performance?. If so, any tips on which on. All my other locos run fine.

 

Thanks, Controller.

[BosKonay]

Could it be in a shunting mode?

[Noel]

Suggest try the loco with a 12v DC controller (i.e. remove the decoder and put the blanking plate back in).

 

That will tell you if it is a decoder setup issue or a problem with your DCC controller, or a mistake with a CV or controller command (e.g. shunting mode, CV5 too low, CV3/4, etc). I always test new locos on 12v DC without decoders to be sure they mechanically run ok. Testing on 12v DC will tell you if the loco is mechanically ok and running at proper speed.

 

If it is ok on 12v DC then put the decoder back in, reconnect the DCC controller, and reset the decoder by setting CV8=8. That will reset all CV values to default values.

[murrayec]

Hi

 

I'm sure you have done this- have you set it to run and leave run for a while, if the CV's for the motor have been set for slow take-off she needs time to get up to speed!

 

Eoin

[controller]

Thanks Lads, I will try what you suggest and get back to you.

Controller.

[Noel]

Suggest try the loco with a 12v DC controller (i.e. remove the decoder and put the blanking plate back in).

 

That will tell you if it is a decoder setup issue or a problem with your DCC controller, or a mistake with a CV or controller command (e.g. shunting mode, CV5 too low, CV3/4, etc). I always test new locos on 12v DC without decoders to be sure they mechanically run ok. Testing on 12v DC will tell you if the loco is mechanically ok and running at proper speed.

 

If it is ok on 12v DC then put the decoder back in, reconnect the DCC controller, and reset the decoder by setting CV8=8. That will reset all CV values to default values.

 

Ps. Remember after resetting a decider its address will change back to the default of 3. Just in case you try driving it with its previous address number and thought it was dead.

[controller]

Hi Lads, I did as was suggested and removed the DCC decoder and replaced it with a blanking plate , and tested the loco on 12v DC. It ran just fine . I replaced the DCC decoder, and back to square one, slow.Can you explain about resetting the decoder, cv values etc. Is that the number you give the loco?. I have a Hornby Select,I know I am limited with what I can do with this controller.Can you tell me what shunting mode is?. When I was putting in the DCC decoder, I bent one of the pins.I managed to straighten it, but the decoder is a little bit tight. Could this affect the performance of the loco?.

 

Thanks Lads, Controller.

[WRENNEIRE]

Firstly who made the chip?

Can you reset the chip to Factory settings?

Most chips can be reset by giving CV8 a value of 8

There may be a problem with the Select as I remember someone here saying you cannot do this on a select

If you are in Dublin drop into the MRSI clubrooms this evening and I will check it out for you

[tonybonneyba]

Firstly who made the chip?

Can you reset the chip to Factory settings?

Most chips can be reset by giving CV8 a value of 8

There may be a problem with the Select as I remember someone here saying you cannot do this on a select

If you are in Dublin drop into the MRSI clubrooms this evening and I will check it out for you

The Hornby Select is not in a he NMRA (<-?) standards, but the Hornby Elite & eLink are in the NMRA standards as Hornby didn't want cash out loads of cash on the select as its their DCC starter controller for beginners in DCC & they had just cashed out bringing the elite & eLink up to standards by sending out updates. Thankfully, most new starter sets with DCC now comes with eLink, which is in NMRA standards.

[murrayec]

Hi Controller

 

Yes Wrennie is correct- the only CV one can change on the Select is the loco number.

 

Shunting mode = is controlled by a function button on your select, which one can depend on the type of chip that's installed- check the instructions for the chip! or just try from function 3 up wards....

 

Bending the pins is not major as long it's not missing, if the chip plugs into the socket you can bet its connected.

 

Do the Wrennie meet if you can- he'll fix or break it if he can!!

 

Eoin

[irishthump]

It's quite possible that the chip is fine but just doesn't work well with the select.

 

NMRA standards are designed to ensure that any decoder will work with any DCC controller. Since the Select is not NMRA compliant it's a well documented fact that it doesn't play well with certain makes of decoder.

 

I used a Select myself so I know about this!

Bachmann, TCS and Gaugemaster decoders have all been known to cause issues so it's worthwhile finding out which decoder you have in the loco.

Hornby decoders all work fine, understandably enough. So if all you want to do is run the occasional loco then the select will do the job if you stick to the Hornby chips.

It might also be worthwhile making sure your Select has the latest firmware version installed. You can check this by looking at the display when you turn the controller on. It will display a series of 3 numbers, if you see 15-30-03 in that order then you have the latest version. Version 1.5 is the latest firmware, the 15 representing this. If you get a different number then you can send the unit to Hornby for a free upgrade. The newer firmware allows the controller to access more functions (originally you could only access 9, now you can access 29) as well as fixing some (but not all) compatibility issues.

If you don't have the latest firmware you can send the unit to Hornby for a free upgrade.

[controller]

Hi lads, Thanks for all the advice. I think it is time for an upgrade. Maybe a Hornby Elite or better. I am not sure which decoder I have in the loco. I can hear a knocking noise from inside the loco , which is not in any of my other locos. It may be restricting one of the motors. When I turn on the decoder it will display 12-30-03. Thanks for the invite Wrenneire. I can not make it tonight,but I will call in soon. I will bring the loco with me, and avail of your expert advice.Are the clubrooms on Dorset St.

 

Thanks again, Controller.

[irishthump]

Hi lads, Thanks for all the advice. I think it is time for an upgrade. Maybe a Hornby Elite or better. I am not sure which decoder I have in the loco. I can hear a knocking noise from inside the loco , which is not in any of my other locos. It may be restricting one of the motors. When I turn on the decoder it will display 12-30-03. Thanks for the invite Wrenneire. I can not make it tonight,but I will call in soon. I will bring the loco with me, and avail of your expert advice.Are the clubrooms on Dorset St.

 

Thanks again, Controller.

 

A knocking noise fro the loco would indicate a mechanical issue. Maybe one of the drive shafts has become misaligned and is causing the mechanism to bind. Would you feel confident opening up the loco to check? If not I'd go back to the retailer again and tell them it's making a noise.

[controller]

Hi, I do not believe I would be able to take apart such a complicated piece of work . I will leave that to the experts.

 

Thanks, Controller.

[irishthump]

Hi, I do not believe I would be able to take apart such a complicated piece of work . I will leave that to the experts.

 

Thanks, Controller.

 

Wise words!

In that case I would go back to the retailer. It's clearly not running as it should and they should sort it for you.

[controller]

I took the DCC decoder out again and replaced it with the blanking plate. I tested it on 12v DC, and it ran just great, no knocking noise at all .When I put back the DCC decoder, the knocking noise returned. I think I will buy a decent decoder and see will that solve the problem. If not,it's back to the shop.

[Noel]

I took the DCC decoder out again and replaced it with the blanking plate. I tested it on 12v DC, and it ran just great, no knocking noise at all .When I put back the DCC decoder, the knocking noise returned. I think I will buy a decent decoder and see will that solve the problem. If not,it's back to the shop.

 

It sounds like its just the decoders motor CV settings are askew. Setting CV8=8 should sort it all out. As your hornby controller can't write to CV8, suggest bringing the decoder to the retailer who may be able to do it in store for you with their DCC system (i.e. assuming they have a test rig in store and 1m of test track).

 

I've often accidentally messed up decoder settings myself and got all manner of strange loco behaviours, but was always able to reset the decoder to normal default values using CV8=8 reset.

[controller]

Thanks Noel, I will bring it in to Marks, and see what they can do for me . (Cheaper than a new decoder).

 

Controller.