New soldering iron

[John-r]

Hi all,

Got a sudden rush of blood to the head and bought this soldering iron and stand and solder.

Never soldered before so don't know what to do or expect. Any advice ? Did I get the right

Iron and solder or do I need anything else.

Thanks in advance, John.

[Glenderg]

Looks like the same thing I have. The tip is chiselled mind. You'll need to get fluxes ( like ear wax that you rub on the area to be jointed and it helps or allows the solder run along the joint. Otherwise it won't stick to the brass or just stay as a blob. You can get high end flux like Carrs, but go into a hardware shop, ask for plumbers flux (comes in a shoe Polish Tin) and use a cotton bud to apply it lightly.

 

Use a few off cuts to test on, and you'll be on the pigs back in no time.

[DiveController]

Look online or on YouTube. Some good videos on basic how to do it techniques.

[Mayner]

Antex irons are probably among the best for model railway use and capable of lasting a long time. The choice of solder and flux depends on the use resin core for wiring the layout and electrical work, more specialist solders and fluxes for sheet metal work in kit and scratch building.

 

Lead & lead free solders don't mix so if you use the lead free solder supplied you will need a separate iron or tip with lead based solder.

 

I use an 18w Antex for general wiring and 25 & 50 watt Antex irons for the heavier jobs including kit building.

 

Asthma and nasal irritation from fluxes is probably a bigger risk than lead poisoning or metal fume, so Glenderg's plumbers paste flux or DCC-Concepts Sapphire flux is a better alternative to phosphoric flux

 

http://www.dccconcepts.com/resources/soldering-and-tools??id=all

[John-r]

Thanks for the help lads, John the link for dcc concepts was very helpful along with your advice,

Richie as always great advice, maybe you could give me a quick demo next time we meet,

Dive looked up YouTube like you said great help. As usual I bought first then asked questions.

I'll get it right some day. Cheers. John.

[Dave]

Hi John,

 

I have a very basic how to solder on my YouTube channel might be helpful. Link is below.

[John-r]

Hi dave, that was very informative ,you made it look so easy and uncomplicated.many thanks.

[Dave]

Hi dave, that was very informative ,you made it look so easy and uncomplicated.many thanks.

 

No worries John

[murrayec]

Hi

 

This may help also;

 

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3869-Soldering-Tips-by-murrayec?p=59978&viewfull=1#post59978

 

Eoin

[John-r]

Thanks Eoin, that's some setup. So one last thing is my lead free solder no use to me for brass kits.

It's the same old story should have listened in metalwork class at school many years ago.

Thanks lads.

 

John

[irishthump]

Hi John,

 

I have a very basic how to solder on my YouTube channel might be helpful. Link is below.

 

Excellent little tutorial there, Dave.

[Dave]

Excellent little tutorial there, Dave.

 

Thanks Graham

[Junctionmad]

Thanks Eoin, that's some setup. So one last thing is my lead free solder no use to me for brass kits.

It's the same old story should have listened in metalwork class at school many years ago.

Thanks lads.

 

John

 

Stay away from lead-free solder , it's far harder to use, requires cleaner joints and higher temperatures. Get a roll of conventional roisin cored leaded solder for basic electrical work. Lead free is only needed for commercial products.

 

For brass , I would highly recommend Carrs products, and their 170 degree solder. Electrical solder melts at around 220 degrees and in my experience requires a 50w iron to provide sufficient heat when used on brass . the flux is key to good soldering.

 

The iron you got , would be aimed at simple electrical work. If you find you are using an iron a lot. Consider upgrading to a 50w temperature controlled one.

[John-r]

Hi junctionmad, thanks for your advice,it is very helpful, I now have a better understanding of what I

Need. Next step burn some fingers:).