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New kits from Worsleyworks

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Colin R

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Hi guys

 

I am sure some of you know this already, but I have not visited this site for a while and low and behold some new carriage kits have appeared.

 

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_Irish_Standard_Gauge.htm

 

While I am still waiting that a WT might appear its good to know that if we have the drawings Allen had said he can make a kit from them.

 

I saw some NCC wagon drawings on the web the other day, cant for the life of me recall who put them there, I was just wondering if it would be worth me asking him to do a couple of them?

 

Colin

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Hi Blaine I do take your point about them not being kits per sa but, until someone comes up with all the bits in a kit then I think for now this is as close as we shall get.

 

I will say one thing about them and that is it takes the hard work out of getting the body looking right

 

Hi D I was not aware that he was doing so many GS&WR 6 wheel coaches, without having photos of them in front of me, I am not sure if they are the same type of coaches you produce. Plus he has done an NIR Parcel van sides for someone now so that is new.

 

Talking of new kits D have you got anything new planned for the coming months?

 

 

Colin

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Great stuff, I look forward to seeing some of it, I do know the feeling of taking on to much, I am looking for any drawings for the BNCR 6 wheel tender that went with the NCC U2 locos, I might have a need to build a couple of them if things go to plan as I am not sure if there is anything out there in 4mm scale which I could use.

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There were two Colin, one standard one and a high sided one often known as a bread carts for some reason. You can get the smaller one as a resin kit from golden arrow models and it is suitable for use behind V1's etc however for the U2's you need to scratchbuild it. The reason why some U2's had the old tender was because they were from the U, and U1's when being converted.

 

On another note, if you want to model a U2 (or mogul) with a Stanier tender, you cannot use any that are RTR this is because the length is longer than it should be, to fix this you can either cut down the length of the tender or by a brass kit from brass masters.

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Thanks Nelson, you beat me to my next question, I looked up the brass master tender kit and they do look the part, I just need to make sure they are the right width as I read somewhere that those sent over to Ireland from the UK where made wider to make use of the larger Irish loading gauge, but sadly at the moment I don't have any drawings to confirm or denia that statement.

 

I will check out the model from golden arrow as I know Chris from our narrow gauge world.

 

Colin

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Thanks Nelson, you beat me to my next question, I looked up the brass master tender kit and they do look the part, I just need to make sure they are the right width as I read somewhere that those sent over to Ireland from the UK where made wider to make use of the larger Irish loading gauge, but sadly at the moment I don't have any drawings to confirm or denia that statement.

 

I will check out the model from golden arrow as I know Chris from our narrow gauge world.

 

Colin

 

Alan Edgar (RM Web De Seby) as built some excellent S4 models of NCC & GNR locos including a scratch built NCC Whippet and a Mogul built using a set of Worsley Works parts

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80681-an-ncc-whippet/page-2

 

It looks like the BNCR tender underframe was wide enough for a standard LMS tender tank.

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Just a quick up date from Worsley works, I have emailed Allen today over another matter and I got this reply which was encouraging.

 

He said that if we wanted a WT kit then he would need to have a minimum of 4 to 6 pre-orders to make it happen, this is to 1) fill the sheet to be etched and 2) to pay for the setting up costs.

 

As for castings I have been advised that the Alan Gibson Midland/LMS white metal locomotive components are a close match and I think Alan Gibson still do wheels as well.

 

 

As for a motor and gearbox I would contact Branchlines via their blog as they have a good range of motors and gear boxes, they also do a list of motors and gear boxes for you to chose your own if you so wish.

 

at:- http://branchlines.blogspot.co.uk/

 

their email address is:- sales@branchlines.com

 

 

Other odds and end could come from Eileens Emporium at:- https://eileensemporium.com/

 

 

Usual disclaimer I don't have any commercial ties with any of the above except as a customer.

 

 

Colin

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Don't go with Mashima, they have now officially closed down and the motors are becoming scarce, there are great throeads of disscusion about suitable alternatives.

 

I was recently in contact with Chris Gibbon of High Level for a suitable motor and gearbox for the 650 Class

 

Chis advised that at this stage Mashima motors are still available and are considering Canon Motors as an alternative.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I booked a "WT" kit with Worsley Works ages ago, so should remind Mr Doherty that my order still stands. 21mm gauge only for me.

 

Drivetrain: I have just received a spare Märklin bevel-and-spur gearbox driven by a Faulhaber coreless motor (about £31 from Germany), so perhaps this might be adapted in some way.

 

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Edited by Horsetan
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Hi the last time I emailed Allen he told me the same thing, I know he was looking for up to four confirmed orders for the jeeps, I said I wanted two, so it would not be a problem for a couple of others to join in at this stage.

 

I think they are designs for 21mm gauge, but they could be built for 16.5mm gauge as well.

 

I got the impression that if we can get just four people to agree to any loco design that he can get hold of, then there is no reason why it should not happen.

 

There are a number of locos I would love to see get this treatment, but it would still be a case of finding of any castings, wheels, motors, gears etc to finish the loco.

 

LMS NCC would be the easiest to do since most of the Midland and LMS fittings are already done as castings by other companies.

 

The GNRi should also be possible as a number of fittings are also available from the above sources as well.

 

As for GSR loco fittings I am sure something is about, it would just be a case of find out who made what.

 

As an example I have five Backwood's C&L 4-4-0T kits to make up. As they all come with enough bits to build them as they came from the manufactures. But I don't at present have anything with the kits to show what Inchicore done to them over the years on a couple of them. I need to find GSR style chimneys for them to start with.

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You definitely have a third confirmed order here - it's been in his in-tray since 2012! Who else can be convinced to come on board?

 

UPDATE: I sent Mr Doherty an e-mail this morning to confirm it. He replied simply: "Noted."

 

As for parts to complete the Jeep:

 

- driving wheels are shared with the LMS Black 5, so it's Ultrascale or Alan Gibson Workshop (AGW).

- pony and bogie wheels are LMS/BR standard anyway

- Axles for 21mm gauge can be had from Ultrascale, or you could cut your own from 1/8" and 2mm steel rod.

- The Jeep's G8AS boiler is shared with the LMS Fowler 4P 2-6-4T, so some of the latter's fittings could be borrowed in the short term

- AGW does a fair few Midland/LMS fittings, some of which might pass for NCC

 

- Motor and drivetrain: down to individual preference. I only use coreless plus reversible drivetrains, so I accumulate old Portescap RG4s or - more recently - the Marklin one.

Edited by Horsetan
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I am with you when it comes to 21mm gauge, I have a guy who has a small lathe, so I will ask if he can chop some up for me, both in 1/8" and 2mm sizes, I think I will always need some more at some stage so I might get him to do a couple of length's of rod when I get them.

 

I understand they need to be 28mm in length?

 

As for some one else coming in that would be fine. Hopefully some one will read this and get in contact.

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To be honest you don't need a lathe to do the axles the average length for driving wheel axle is 1 inch varies a bit depending on the boss.I just stick a wheel each side of the back to back measure off with a vernier ,then rod in vice and a quick hacksaw then clean up the ends with a file Hey presto one axle simples.As for pin point axles 1.5mm steel rod cut to 28mm,stick it in a drill,fire it up and with a fine carborundum block form a point the angle isn't that critical.Its worked for the last 15 locos and 60 bits of stock.Andy

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