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Andy Cundick

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About Andy Cundick

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  • Location
    Salisbury Plain
  1. Milton Keynes Model Railway Show

    Slight problem with photos as i don't have clue how to stick them on web sites(don't do computers),however you'll see it at Warley this year,hopefully we'll be together there,Andy.
  2. Milton Keynes Model Railway Show

    Slight correction there,David 50%,Courtmacsherry up and running,concentrating on the scenery,ready for its first (work in progress show)arch,Andy. in M
  3. UTA 2-6-0 Ex-NCC 'Earl of Ulster'

    Theres always the 2f to consider,vaguely Aish with the lights turned off,Andy.
  4. A good read!

    Very good selection of photos in there,one bit that amussed me was when he went back to Arigna after closure he couldn't find it and assumed it had been demolished,can't quite see how he missed it as if it was any nearer to the road you'd hit it! Andy.
  5. NCC Harland & Wolff kit

    Go onto RM Web then onto Small Suppliers in the trade section then Judith Edge theres some photos of the model,Andy.
  6. NCC Harland & Wolff kit

    Just noticec on RM Web that the next Judith Edge kit is for the LMS NCC Harland && Wolff 060 and very good it looks too,Can't justify one but will get one anyway to keep the Jinty and W company.Andy.
  7. PRE-GROUPING AND GSR COACHES IN THE CIE ERA FOR MODELLERS

    Brassmasters do a couple of very good kits for 6 wheel coach chassis.Andy.
  8. David's Workbench

    Been there tried it no it didn't,Andy
  9. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    Sleeper spacing is totally irrelevant to most of Courtmacsherry as you can't see them(currently burying them at the moment)Andy.
  10. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    For trackwork i use Copperclad sleepers and Code 75 Bullhead which i get from the EM Gauge Society,its all built to EM standards.The useful thing about soldered track construction is that its easy to tweek after being laid,just the touch of a soldering iron.Andy
  11. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    Tony,The only ready to run conversion i have is a Halling motor bogie under my C Class.For any one who hasn't come across these rather fine beasties,they are made by Leopold Halling in Austria and are mainly used under tram kits,they are however readily regauged as all you have to do is replace the existing axles (1.5mm)with longer ones,for the C i used 14mm coach wheels instead of the 9mm ones.The usuful thing with these bogies are they have a variable wheelbase and flywheel drive infinitely better than those dreadful Tenshodos.Andy
  12. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    Just finished doing the trackwork for Courtmacsherry and a quick calculation shows that it cost about 45 quid thats for a 196 foot layout(excluding fiddleyard) with 7 1/2 points (ones a catch point).So 21mm track needn't be expensive,Andy
  13. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    Coach bogies are dead easy MJT do a range of basic compensated coach bogies in various wheelbases the two sides and centre bolster are connected together by wire so all i do is make the wire longer then solder up the whole lot,they work a treat and you can fix whatever cosmetic frames you want.As for wagon chassis i don't know whether SSM still do their 21mm RCH w irons but those plus the wheel spacing jig from Brassmasters makes the job easy,Andy.
  14. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    A few points (Pardon the pun) about doing 21mm gauge,like most things its a lot to take on board at first,however it really isn't that difficult.For a start my first attempt at track building was a 21mm point,The way i did was to buy an SMP point kit ,they come with a full set of instructions plans copperclad sleeper strip,rail,and even a crossing gauge.then what i did was blew the point plan up to 21mm gauge and built a point,and heres the scary thing it actually worked!up to that moment trackwork had been a black art worshipped from afar,incidentally the second one was a complete disaster as i was overconfident.I would sugggest as first go copperclad construction has a lot going for it as its easy to adjust track after construction with a touch of the soldering iron.My way of building the track is to mark the centres of the tracks directly onto the baseboards then lay the sleepers using double backed sellotape(the type used for laying carpet tiles).a 3ft steel rule on its side helps with marking out as bending creates its own transistion curve.Obviously a couple of roller gauges are needed,now the Scalefour Society do them,but they are easy enough to make yourself with some tube cut/filed to length and some washers with a bolt through the lot.There is a set of dimensions in Alan O'Rourkes "Modelling Irish Railways".I would suggest sticking to the EM standars then at least you can see the flanges.Back to Back gauges are usfull but a Vernier caliper does the job just as well,incidently i jst checked my back to back gauge which came from Terry McDermont back in the day and that comes out at 19.6mm. A lot has been said about the cost but especially if you build your own track it shouldn't cost any more than doing it in 00,especially if get into kit building.Andy.
  15. 21mm gauge track; the pros and cons?

    Totally agree with David,steamers especially look odd,the photo in the Modeller of the Loco Works U says it all with the wheels so far in they would virtually inside the firebox.Just started laying track on Courtmacsherry which will at least increase Broad Gauge on the circuit by 25%(Due at Warley next year so no pressure then!).Start small and have a go Andy.
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