Mike 84C

I have the magnetic system from DCC Concepts and it seems to work well on my steam locos. No diesels on my railway yet!

The modules look excellent, high standards are being set. Thank you for posting I shall follow the thread with renewed interest.

I run my airbrush from a small workshop compressor which has a regulator and gauges built in, then use step down fittings to my airbrush hose. Its tank is about two ft long by one ft dia. Cost? about £100 from our local Machine Mart. Its only down side is its bloody noisey! so its a shed or garage job. But I also use it for tyre checking cars bikes etc.

Wow! extreme deep ballasting! But I like the track thats under it, thanks for posting.

Top notch modelling and the weathering just sets the bubbles off.

Looking good from over here and I"m with Glenderg on the weathering from photographs I"ve seen.Push the envelope Nelson! Regards Mike

Hi guys, didnt know wether to post this as its a ----take against myself! I do a lot of my modelling in the conservatory, good light, out of the way usual stuff. Windows have roller blinds, small desk under south facing window, got the picture? desk has a angle poise lamp with a magnifing glass. I went out on Sunday to Peterborough show, left blinds up so the cat was happy sleeping in the sun, conservatory got hot , lamp drooped, sun moved across the windows and focussed on the tender of one of my Bachmann Woolworths. They do melt! My only bit of luck was The tender is not a blob but a sort of creased side. And I hope I have recovered it with filler and lots of rubbing down, the other luck was it was"nt a Murphy Models version but one I got hold of to do a very heavy weathering exercise on. You all know what the moral of this tale is. So be carefull!! and stop laughing!! Now!! Mike

Good to see you have your modelling mojo up and running again. I shall enjoy watching such a meticulous build. hope its not too slow as I would like to see the finished loco! Mike

Spot on Noel, what a fantastic sight and sound I can only imagine what a hundred going on a raid sounded like. Ear shattering! was with my wifes cousin when we saw the pair in flight and her husband just dropped into the conversation that he was a rear gunner and shot down whilst flying Lancasters. My respect for him rose immesurably.

Thank you very much Glenderg, I asked because they always look as if the wheelbase is more than 10ft, perhapse its because most photographs are taken from an angle and the low roofline decives the eye.

No worries DiveController let me know if you cannot find the photos you need, I can always ask.

Kevin I live In the UK but I will ask a friend of mine who lives at Dunmanway if he will take the photos for you. regards Mike

Would anyone know what the H vans wheel base would be? It looks quite long in photographs and is there any drawings in New Irish Lines before I trawl its archive?

Spent a couple of holidays in the Bantry area and I was very surprised at how little its changed since the demise of the railway. It must be one of the most modelable of railways and so much of the infrastructure is still visible. I think its Dunmanway still has the glass roof in the station and the loco water columns.

How did the stock get moved to the Waterford and Tramore? and was it far? I have a mental picture of rails laid through streets with gangs of men picking up the rail as vehicles passed over and relaying in front but surely not!

Warbonnet, at this moment there is a huge amount of Details West parts from different vendors on US ebay. I hope, I have bought some handbrake wheels!

Thought you might like these seen at Cranwell and Coningsby.

33; your MPD"s look brilliant, each build looks better than the last! And to keep all the cut and shut in line and square, takes a lot of skill, respect to the man!

You guys produce such excellent models and your comments are very much appreciated. I have decided the camera is a very cruel machine! I was looking at my posting and I can really see where I could have done better! Nelson, the transfers are from our good friend Wheshty at SSM and are waterslide. Mike

Warbonnet, Korean brass, wish my skills were that good! but most of the detail castings are available so a good looking model is do-able. My wife does not want me to paint them as she likes the plain brass finish. I have back dated a Bachmann 4-6-0 which is painted.

Acouple of CMR 2-8-0"s one a vauclian compound and the other as rebuilt as a simple. Need a bit more airbrsh practise and a lot of nerve before I paint them!

A few wagons made from modified Cambrian and Parkside kits. I dont claim they are spot on replicas but I hope they capture the feel of Irish freight wagons

Thanks for that idea Glenderg I"ll give it a go! i must admit to using the weathering powder before sealing the finish. Even tried a bit of abrasion with the fiberglass pen which did not work! Thats when I got into the "thats as good as it gets attitude!" But will try the light overspray with some light grey. Mike

Thanks for all the positive comments guys, glad you like the van. Nelson, the weathering is Carrs rust and mud dry powders; another first for me! and I also used Micro Marks Window glaze, it looks very much like pva adhesive when wet but dries clear. But it worked very well. What I didnt say, was that I glued the roof to the Evergreen strip that was Acc"d to the curve of the roof. Mike

Hope I have done the attachments correctly! I deviated from Wheshtys Instuctions a little by makeing the roof from a ply lamination of 2x20thou; plastic sheet;this was curved by taping the sheet to a curved biscuit tin and gentle heat from the SWIMBO"s hair drier. The chimney is a piece of brass tube into a hole drilled in the roof with a chimney collar punched from the plastic sheet. I then covered the roof with a single ply of handkerchief tissue to represent felt fixed with a wash of Di-Limonene solvent. But! before doing all that I glued with acc Ever Green strip to the curve of the roof at the balcony ends and just above the doors into the cabin. My van is all soldered, I did try acc on the running boards but would recommend solder,glue didnt work for me! I also put extra bracing on the back of the hanging brackets before accing them in position. The other extra was to sloder an 8BA nut to the veranda floor then attatch the chassis with a short 8BA nut. This trapped the running boards and has made the whole van seem stronger. I also put a very basic representation of the brake pull rods underneath. I am pleased with the way the kit has turned out, having never built an etched kit before and my soldering skills have been improved. My only dissapointment was the lines around some of the transfers. I did use solvaset and have not had this happen before;advise please?