irishthump

Well at worst you just need to replace the points, so it’s not a total loss.

Sorry to hear of your problems! I've had similar experiences on my old layout and I would'nt dream of fitting points until AFTER ballasting is complete. I know that's not much use to you now though... Maybe try removing the point motors from the baseboards and try to free them?

Unfortunately not! If you look at the bogie side frames they actually wrap around a little so they’ll hit anything mounted behind the buffer beam.

Not as time consuming as you might think. I used MIG washes on the body and roof, let in run into the crevices then feather the streaks with a brush moistened with thinners. Underframe was stippled with track dirt and brake dust acrylics.

I have used the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance for years and have no complaints at all. It's very simple to use, I found the Powercab a little more involved when doing simple programming tasks. Gaugemaster also had excellent after sales service on the rare occasions I had any problems. The only problem now is Brexit has made them difficult to get your hands on so I've been shopping around for an eventual replacement. I think I'll go for a Lenz Set101 when the time comes, I have no interest in iPhone or tablet control and I like the look of the Lenz handheld. Incidentally, if anyone is selling or knows of anyone selling a Gaugemaster Prodigy please let me know. I'm constantly on the lookout for a spare!

Never ceases to amaze me the amount of modellers I have heard complaining that Kadees are not prototypical for UK/Irish rolling yet are happy to use big ugly tension locks! That aside, my main reason for liking them is their reliability and the added feature of hands free uncoupling and shunting.

Yes, any photos that I could find of the prototype were'nt very mucky so I went easy! Thanks! The rust effect is simple enough; various weathering powders mixed with thinned down matt varnish and simply stippled on.

Welcome to the Kadee Converts Club! The operational difference between tension locks and Kadees is night and day. Converting my stock was the best decision I ever made. Did you opt for draft boxes on the wagons or the NEM couplers? Any plans for adding uncoupling magnets?

More from the lockdown workbench! Dapol Interfrigo refrigerated van. Assembled, painted, weathered and Kadee couplers fitted.

That's some stunning modelling right there!

Thanks for the reply, Blarney. I dont use Digitrax myself but I've heard of that issue affecting some brands of controller.

Great news. Nothing more frustrating than having a new loco act up! What exactly was the issue?

So I removed the bogie mounted NEM pocket and built a bracket and new pocket to fit to the back of the buffer beam…. I used brass angle strip and box section tube to create the bracket. After cleaning up my dodgy soldering it was fixed to the buffer beam. A quick test proved it was at the correct height. Although the couple now protrudes further past the buffer than o would like some black paint should make it far less noticeable.

So I’m stuck at home now for the next week or so. Both my youngest sons have tested positive for Covid! I seem to have escaped it for the moment so that leaves modelling as just about the only thing I can do right now. A flurry of activity has been the result! First up some US freight cars got hit with the weathering stick… Next was something I have been pondering for a while. I prefer to fit Kadee draft box couplers to my all my locos but my Heljan Class 26 was proving to be a pain. As you can see there is no room to fit a draft box on the underframe because it would interfere with the bogies…

Have to say I never saw it coming! One of my sons noticed me watching Youtube videos of the real loco then found the model on Modellbahne Lippe. Even ordered the correct decoder for it!

Yeah this is the Taigatrommel.

OK you're gonna have to explain that one.......

A present from the wife and kids, a Piko M62 in DB livery. Fitted with a Loksound V5. Still some tweaking to be done with the various sound levels, but overall delighted with it. Can’t wait to detail and weather it as these locos got pretty grubby in real life.

Yeah my eldest son was crazy about the Tomy stuff, he amassed quite a collection. It's still sitting in the attic!

Have a look at the Tomy Tomica range of trains. Battery powered, very robust, easy to place back on the track. Smyths usually stock them.

True. I would like to try 21mm, but the amount of extra work it would give me just rules it out. But then again, I'm type of person who happily runs US and German HO stock alongside the Irish OO gauge. So what would I know?!!! Yes, those same rivet counters will demand every detail be accurate then run all their stock with dirty great tension lock couplers sticking it of them.

Probably not much difference, unless you’re running over a long crossover or yard ladder with insulfrog points. But it’s surprising there isn’t 6 wheel pick up. Many European HO models have unpowered centre axles but still pickup from all 6 wheel sets. Probably more to do with with them usually having friction tyres…..

That’s the only niggle I ever had with the 201’s, the fact that they only pick-up power from 4 axles. The middle ones have no contact strips.

Same to you guys from a delighted customer.

Thanks man. Yours set the bar!