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irishthump
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Everything posted by irishthump
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Personally Noel, I think you've just been fortunate. The Rail-Tec stuff could easily slip under the radar as transfers come in a flat envelope and as the article I linked to above shows Hattons are'nt exactly a safe bet. To be honest I can't see it getting any better, especially when the transition period ends in July. At the risk of getting political, to hell to with it, I've lost interest in the whole sh@t storm. They voted for it, let them stew. I'll buy from the EU and the world will spin on.
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Not good news for everybody it would seem, is this a member of this parish by any chance? Online shopping from the UK delivers financial shocks (irishtimes.com) Personally, I've abandoned the idea of ordering ANYTHING from the UK. I've oretty much sourced anything I need from EU countries.
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I'll be up front, Irish steam (or any steam for that matter) is something I'm just not interested in so I would'nt be buying one. I try to support IRM, and to a lesser extent Accurascail, as much as possible. But I can't see myslef buying something I won't run. There is far too much other good products to spend my hard=earned on.
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Yeah have to agree! I was considering using a couple of SMD's (0603 or 0805) and wiring them to the PCB.
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Dramatic reduction in speed after fitting a 121 sound chip
irishthump replied to Michael Nolan's topic in Irish Models
Had a good look through the Loksound V5 manual last night and both the starting and top speeds of the loco while on DC control can be independently set. There is also a setting for allowing the lights and sound to activate before the loco moves off. Unfortunately though Michael will need acess to a DCC controller to check and adjust these settings. -
Lovely! Grabbed a couple of the keg packs as I missed out last time!
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Ah not good! If I were you I'd be contacting Murphy Models about repair/replacement.
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The fact that it only occurs when running the loco one way would indicate it's most likely an issue in the drive train. I would be inclined to think that this would probably disappear with tume and more running in. As for the circuit board, is it causing an issue? Are the lighs working correctly?
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The Lokprogrammer is actually a lot simpler than you might think especially if you just want to load sounds to decoders.
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I see you got yourself a Lokprogrammer. Great investment if you plan on having a lot of sound equipped locos.
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I'd try some light washes on the ballast wagons to vary the overall colour but that's just me. The plough vans are spot on though, they look fantastic. Overall, really nice work.
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Ok. Do you have a link for his eBay account? Also, where is his shop online? I tried contacting him via Facebook but no luck...
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Is IFM still selling these?
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Not sure I understand your question....
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Oh lovely!
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How does it work if you buy something from the uk and get it shipped to AddressPal?
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This one might suit.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233757712324
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Decoder for Plough van
irishthump replied to controller's question in DCC, Electrics and Electronics
Yeah they’re available. Gaugemaster make one. https://www.ajmrailways.com/model-railways/Gaugemaster-No-Harness-Omni-Small-8-Pin-Decoder-DCC29-DCC29.html -
Thanks Robert, those pics are perfect!
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Wow, thanks for that! I had a vague childhood memory of seeing this formation but I dismissed it after JHB's reply. Good to know I have'n quite lost it!
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On a point of order, in "Irishthumpland" steam never existed and Supertrain is still running in 2021!
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Bugger! I guess it will have to be a case of "what if" on my layout! Many thanks for the info!
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Couple of questions for the hive mind.... Regarding the MK3 push-pull sets - the only pictures I've seen of these shows them in the tippex livery. Did they ever carry the Supertrain livery? Also were they ever hauled by 121's still painted in Supertrain? Regarding the AEC Railcar push pull sets - were these ever hauled by 121's as opposed tothe re-engined C Class?
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I started off with Tony Mirolo’s tutorial to get the streaking effect down the sides of the bubble but I went for a heavier application. The layer of crusty cement on the top was made of plaster of Paris mixed with a small amount of black and brown weathering powder to give it a grey colour. I brush this on the top of the bubble and streak it down the sides. Then mist water over the plaster with a spray bottle to make it set hard. You can repeat this several times depending on what effect you’re looking for.
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Very nice! They look like they’ve been coupled together for ages!
