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What card from where?

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What card do you guys use for card buildings?

i do see that 1mm and 2mm is recommended for a lot of print and stick buildings but i cant find any anywhere.

Is mount card the best card to use?

Surely there has to be another alternative?

18 answers to this question

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Posted

Pretty much any cereal box is ok I've found. If you need thicker just double up.

 

If you don't intend showing an interior there is the option of foam core sheets. Very lightweight and relatively rigid.

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Posted

I use 1mm and 2mm Greyboard from Cork Art Supplies. Supplied in A1 size sheets. They have what one could describe as 'the usual cheaper on the website' prices. Though not by too much I would add. There are better discounts if ordering batches. Links to the 1mm and 2mm as follows: http://corkartsupplies.com/Grey-Board-1mm-A1-G00382 http://corkartsupplies.com/Grey-Board-2mm-A1%5E-G00383. I've found the delivery service is fast and efficient. Charge is €4.95 anywhere in the country at the moment. There is a minimum order value of €15 incl VAT.

 

I've no affiliation, just a happy customer.

 

Mike

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Posted
Greyboard is " mounting board" , widely available

 

Greyboard is 0.8mm thick recycled pulp board which is cheap and has little or not structural benefit. Mounting board is 1.5mm thick professional framing board and is the best backing for a building to stop it warping over time.

 

Having built lots of buildings, if you want them to stand up in two years time (humidity in attics etc. love card) the outer sheet is in whatever you want, the inner lining in 1.5mm mounting board and a backing of foamboard behind that. The triple lamination stops it bending, and the mounting board acts as a sponge for any moisture (it's designed for watercolour art)

 

If none of the above are readily available, the type of card used in pizza delivery boxes, not goodfellas, works great as reinforcing card.

 

For those in Dublin, Evans Art is the best value card and perspex supplier, I've been a customer since college days in Bolton Street. http://store.evansartsupplies.ie/store/

 

Richie.

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Posted

I found 1/4" balsa stringers good for stability with cardboard structures (i.e. balsa structural frames). I also use it with some plastic card buildings.

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Posted
what have you got against goodfella's :o

College days in Bolton Street.......sometime in the late 1980's !!

 

Nothing whatsoever, it's just the same type as cornflake boxes etc. and while lovely to work with and cut, it doesn't have any modelling stamina :P

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Posted

The 1.5mm stuff that Glenderg suggests is certainly excellent stuff but there are plenty of buildings made of cereal box card that have stood the test of time. The Malahide/Drumin Jct layout(which I currently have) was built 48 years ago with buildings made of cornflake card. It spent a lot of it's life in a converted attic but, more importantly, it spent 15 years in a shed with vines growing on it and they're still fine!

 

It is worth noting however, that several layers of card were used for each wall to improve strength.

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Posted

I think what some are saying is that cardboard from cereal boxes 48 years ago is of a far better quality than the cheap recycled cardboard cereal brands use today bit like toilet paper the cheap recycled supermarket stuff blocks drains the dear branded stuff breaks up and washes away.

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Posted
'Bonio' boxes.

 

Handy if you happen to own a dog, if not.... you can always snack on them and you'll get a nice glossy coat.

 

Excellent advice - it's worked for this chap.

 

fig024.jpg

 

 

 

On other matters, I've not found Pritt to be an adhesive with good long-term adhesion, things can come adrift after a while..

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Posted

talking about card, anyone have experience of using ink jet printed brick/stone papers. I was going to experiment with this method, as compared to using scribed DAS clay walls just to see comparison in 4mm.

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Posted

Hi Junctionmad,

 

Most of my layout has it on it for walls, footpaths and building fascias.

From my experience, a good printer set to high resolution will definitely give a good result.

 

Just be wary of the fact that sometimes your screen resolution might show colours as desired, but print might have a slight different hue.

Print a test and adjust as needed.

Trial and Error can yield some interesting results.

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Posted

Thanks RL, how did you feel about the lack of embossed relief in brick papers. My previous efforts used either embossed card, embossed plastikard or DAS ( scribed) . My problem is painting the resulting model as I could never get the colouring right. now Im considering trading the embossing for better colouring

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Posted

Hi JM,

 

At a distance the lack of relief is not as noticeable, especially the better the print.

What I have done in some instances before is added the print to an uneven surface to give it the effect of not being a wall paper.

Or you can add some relief to it yourself by adding down pipes, air con fan units etc.

 

You will be surprised how the eye can be tricked.

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