tonybonneyba Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 Would anyone able tell me where I can get model paint of the color between RAL 1003 - 1007 (Jcb yellow)? ( ) Also, where do I get costum decals made? Quote
0 murrayec Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Tony That paint you have there looks fine Many moons ago myself and a chap who drove JCB's used to service the bushings on the back-actor- I still have the drill bits and the reamers for doing the job! oh and I still have the pillar drill we used to use, at that time JCB sold the kits and one could buy paint from them for touch up?? Eoin Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 Tony That paint you have there looks fine Many moons ago myself and a chap who drove JCB's used to service the bushings on the back-actor- I still have the drill bits and the reamers for doing the job! oh and I still have the pillar drill we used to use, at that time JCB sold the kits and one could buy paint from them for touch up?? Eoin Aye, it works fantastic on the real machines, such as the Ex Nir ballast regulator I touch up some rust & scratch patches with, but because the paint was made for metal & tractors (mainly jcbs, funny enough) I have been told it will damage the plastic on the model & won't dry very well, which is why I'm looking for a model paint of RAL 1007 - 1003 (Jcb yellow). The paint shop, Kelly's, in Ballynahinch do paint for JCBs for touch ups since your asking. (Wonder if JCBs are as fun as USP 3000 C's? ) Quote
0 Glenderg Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 If it's standard enamel paint, it will work fine on plastic. If it's cellulose paint (really potent chemical smell) DO NOT TOUCH it! Quote
0 Weshty Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 If it's cellulose paint (really potent chemical smell) DO NOT TOUCH it! What will it do to yah? Quote
0 Riversuir226 Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Go to your local model factors and get them to mix a spray can to the ral number, make sure to use a primer first and you ll be grand. If you do go down this route buy a respiratory mask and only spray in a well ventilated area. Also put the spray can in warm water before use. Des at ssm or Steve at railtec may be able to help with the decals. Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 I'll get a photo of the pot when I get home (five hours & ten minutes from when this message is sent). According to a friend who done some painting with it, it did have a strong smell, but I didn't smell much from it (must be my nose). Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 Go to your local model factors and get them to mix a spray can to the ral number, make sure to use a primer first and you ll be grand. If you do go down this route buy a respiratory mask and only spray in a well ventilated area. Also put the spray can in warm water before use.Des at ssm or Steve at railtec may be able to help with the decals. Ah, thanks, I'll try get in touch with SSM, when you say Model Factors, I presume you are referring to a model or craft shop? Quote
0 Riversuir226 Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Ah, thanks, I'll try get in touch with SSM, when you say Model Factors, I presume you are referring to a model or craft shop? Whoops my mistake, should be a motor factors. Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 Whoops my mistake, should be a motor factors. Hehe, I'll go look about then later on, thanks Quote
0 Glenderg Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 RAL 1003 = Humbrol Enamel 154 RAL 1004 = Humbrol Enamel 69 Quote
0 murrayec Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 What will it do to yah? Weshty for you... Tony As far as I know cellulose paint is not used in the motor industry any more due to safety, they use a water based system now that requires an oven to set the paint hard- that's why they say the paint does not dry well if used without an oven! Go for the Humbrol option Eoin Quote
0 Weshty Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 "Fast and loud" car programme on the other night. '67 Cadillac in bright red, €9000 dollar paint job. Stunning. Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 I think I found it http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/24-trainer-yellow-matt-150ml-acrylic-spray-paint.html Now just the decals..... Quote
0 Glenderg Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Go on to the next page and pick no 69, which as I said above, is Ral 2004. Quote
0 tonybonneyba Posted November 25, 2015 Author Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) Go on to the next page and pick no 69, which as I said above, is Ral 2004. Digging myself a bigger whole.... Ah, yes, sorry, the preview of 69 was a bit bright, but that's always the case when it comes to model pints..... http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/69-yellow-gloss-150ml-acrylic-spray-paint.html Edited November 25, 2015 by tonybonneyba Hit shift while typing model.... Quote
0 DiveController Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 If it's standard enamel paint, it will work fine on plastic. If it's cellulose paint (really potent chemical smell) DO NOT TOUCH it! Is the problem with cellulose with humans, or with the model? I have some coaches that were resprayed with what I believe is cellulose paint and it seems to be fine. They are only a few months old but the plastic hasn't disintegrated yet or anything like that Quote
0 Glenderg Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Is the problem with cellulose with humans, or with the model? I have some coaches that were resprayed with what I believe is cellulose paint and it seems to be fine. They are only a few months old but the plastic hasn't disintegrated yet or anything like that Sprayed Cellulose Paint, especially the 2 pack variety,produces cyanide fumes. Quote
0 murrayec Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Hi DC Cellulose is a fantastic paint for all materials its why most car body shops used to use it- its probably the best and its cheep On the other hand its deadly to humans if it gets into the lungs- it sticks the little woolie bits together and suffocation comes on. This is why you don't see back lane car body shops any more- insurance companies and employers wont take the risk and to up-grade to the water system is to expensive for the back lane guys- what's the cost of a car oven!! Eoin Quote
0 Broithe Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Hi DC Cellulose is a fantastic paint for all materials its why most car body shops used to use it- its probably the best and its cheep On the other hand its deadly to humans if it gets into the lungs- it sticks the little woolie bits together and suffocation comes on. This is why you don't see back lane car body shops any more- insurance companies and employers wont take the risk and to up-grade to the water system is to expensive for the back lane guys- what's the cost of a car oven!! Eoin Cellulose can be difficult to apply over some non-cellulose finishes, too. Quote
0 Mayner Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) In the day job I spend a fair amount of time inspecting car body shops for health and safety and dangerous goods compliance. The majority still use solvent (xylene or toluene) rather than water based paint systems. Acute solvent exposure can lead to brain damage, some car painters have literally lost their marbles The really dangerous ingredients tend to be in the two pack clears or laquers and the primer fillers or bogs. The 2 pack clears contain isocyanates which are completely different from cyanide, the principal health risk is occupational asthma. Some of the bogs or primer fillers and lead based pigments (some yellows, blacks and reds) which can cause cancer. Bake ovens are used with both solvent and water based systems, the purpose of the oven is to speed the drying and harden the paint finish. The insurance companies largely dictate the rates for body repair work forcing out the smaller shops, the few that survive tend to depend on restoration and often tend to be run more as a hobby than a business, with more unfinished projects than the average modeller. The European based manufacturers have been gradually phasing out the most harmful ingredients, but I have had some interesting surprises reading the SDS from some Dutch and German based manufacturers. Edited November 25, 2015 by Mayner Quote
0 DiveController Posted November 26, 2015 Posted November 26, 2015 Thanks lads! So, most importantly, my coaches are OK…...and, oh yeah, my resprayer survived to do another fine job when I need some MkIIIs Quote
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Question
tonybonneyba
Would anyone able tell me where I can get model paint of the color between RAL 1003 - 1007 (Jcb yellow)?
(
)
Also, where do I get costum decals made?
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