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Is this weird? Did it just get weird here?

Interesting and thank you both. Looking at the instructions again, they suggest a curved, rather than an angled bend to the dropper might work better. Further experimenting certainly required though, including: Building a test rig so stock can be pushed back and forth on the work bench Try altering the height of the magnet. I use the Dingham ones and on 15v, instead of 12v, as this works better with AJs, so maybe there is an issue there. Vary the length of the dropper as the shorter it is, the greater chance for the loop to fall back down on its own weight Find some way of ensuring the loops don't go beyond the vertical, as once they do, then there is no way they can fall back again. As for loops just at one end, am doing that with some of my trains as it works well with fixed rakes. However, as soon as haunting is involved, it all goes to pot because having a turntable means you soon get a loopless loco with a loopless wagon. Overall, I'd happily use three links and the hand from the sky, but for front operated exhibition layouts that is not practical for the paying public.

The dreaded parallel - though I'm sure you can get some cream for that. For many years now, I've been using the knives with snap off blades. As it is only the tip that goes blunt, every snap gives you a new sharp one.

I currently use Shapr3D to draw them as I can use it on my iPad and tend to only have time to work on the designs if I’m travelling. As for printing I’m using a Creality Ender 3 and I’ll sand the model down next time I’m working on it to smooth it before painting

Interesting I once saw an O Gauge model of a large NZR diesel electric loco with the superstructure printed in 2 sections and glued together. The designer used a 3D print bureau to produce the FDM prints. What design software, print processes do you use.?

I don't know if they are interchangeble but both the DG and B&B couplings (Derek Bunting) appear to be based on the Rivorossi (hook and loop) coupling the B&B using an etched loop rather than the user having to form the loop from wire. I successfully used B&B couplings under exhibition conditions on a EM gauge layout over 20 years ago, seldom experiencing problems coupling up or magnetic uncoupling, my wagon stock had loops at both ends locos with hooks only, while a friend who used a mixture of B&B, Rivorossi , and Bemo couplings fitted a loop at only one end. The friend's father (an Irish Railway Clearing House employee) used Rivorossi couplers on his OO gauge GWR layout during the 50s and 60s, his son continuing to model the GWR this time in EM. Whether B&B couplings are available in S or 7mm is another question.

Very kind words thank you Damien! And your geography is spot on! The very mountain indeed

Hi David, As a 2mm scale modeller I've been using DGs for a while now so have experience of my own and those shared by others in conversations amongst other 2mm modellers. I've never used them in 7mm scale though. The loops are recognised as a problem, that said, I don't have much of an issue. Some 2mm modellers just put the loop on one end of their stock, which works if your stock always travels in one direction. If not you are going to have problems due to stock with no loops trying to couple (or have to carefully choreograph the moves). When I first started using DGs I experimented with some soft iron wire for the loops. I thought I was being clever as this meant I could just fold the loop and dropper up out a single piece of wire, no need to solder on a dropper. The wire was thicker though, probably bigger than 0.5mm where the standard 2mm wire is 0.3mm. I found I had a couple of issues: Firstly the loops clashed more causing problems when coupling. Changing back to 0.3mm phosphor bronze wire all but removes the issue. I think the slight spring in the phosphor bronze wire also helps. Secondly the loops didn't drop back as consistently. I suspect this was do to the loop being heavier so the dropper didn't have as much of a counter balance effect bringing the loop down. The wire was also a slightly tighter fit in the mounting hole (but still free to move) so I suspect there was more friction involved. Again, moving back to phosphor bronze wire with an iron dropper resolved this. I've found the loops do pop out occasionally but only if I'm manhandling the stock, I've never had this issue if they are on the track and my fingers aren't involved. As your rakes are short might it be worth trying some 0.3 phospher bronze for the loops? It should be strong enough even for 7mm.

Well done @flange lubricator - a good investment!

Here are the first prints I had done, attempting to print the carriages in halves and glue the together. This didn’t work with parts warping after being removed from the build plate. These videos are from the final, completed CAD designs. As it stands I am currently unable to print these as a whole entity but I’m looking into it and solutions for my second run of prints. My most recent print, a stronger and sturdier print. It is able to hold the bogies without the floor imploding, and I’m generally happy with the overall finish. I can’t reach the internals of the carriage so I will just post process (ie sand and paint) them and then use tint plastic to fill in any windows. I’ll do more updates and background info as I continue working on these! Note, I don’t know how to add the specific files in a specific order. The halves are pretty obvious as are the videos. The clear photos of the carriage by itself on the layout was my first ‘successful’ print, which has since imploded but is good test dummy for learning to spray paint. The most recent print is sitting beside the 201 on the messier side of the board. RPReplay_Final1753187001.mp4

Bunratty gives me horrible flashbacks. As a first year apprentice, I had to do a months work experience with the builders building the village above the castle. Worked in a cold damp shed/workshop with the crankiest ba****d of a joiner ever to walk this earth. To this day, the smell of oak gives me the creeps and brings me right back there.

That was me Leslie who got the journals I was delighted with them

Congratulations, Dave, that was peanuts. Well done for spotting it! I assume that you bought the name as well? It was even more unbelievably cheap. Obviously a certain gent in the Isle of Man wasn't paying attention and missed it. He paid £25,000 for a S Class nameplate last month. Also congratulations to whoever got a complete run of the IRRS Journal for about £300!

Hammer €1700 + 26.31% including VAT €2147.27

Falling down the rabbit hole of scrolling through forums instead of studying (I feel there should be some form of AA meeting for it at this point!) I thought I’d add a little side part here to get ideas and keep everyone up to date with what I’m up to. For those of you who have seen on Facebook I started designing De Dietrich carriages almost a year ago for after getting a 3d printer specifically for this. In between work and studies I have slowly managed to get a few print done (mostly all ‘learning’ or ‘improving’ or ‘I’m so glad I didn’t follow my engineering career path otherwise we’d all be screwed’ prints) but as of the weekend I think I may have got it right.

First stage of the painting has started, with the main body colur of olive green applied. Balck next, once the new tin arrivaes as the current tin had gone a bit gloopy.

What a wonderful video this is, it really deserves a much wider viewership, it explains the techniques involved in building this layout in a way that I'm sure would be appreciated by many non-railway people. As with all Patrick's videos made to the highest standards and with the gentle musical backdrop having, if I am correct, a local connection to the Knocklaughrim area (Slieve Gallion Braes?).

Class! Any ideas of good spotting locations please?

Great to see the Stobart livery removed from anything!

Some lovely additions to Lakeview the past few months.

Los Pitufos / The Smurfs:

Probably try again some other time

If all the carpet monsters ever get together to sell all the stuff they've collected, it'll be a brilliant model shop.

I managed to get a set of IRRS journals from volume 1 to Volume 27 all original in excellent condition all beautifully bound .