Tullygrainey

While waiting for replacement wheels, I've made a start on No 9's running plate in 16 thou (0.4mm) brass. Buffer beams are 2 layers of 16 thou nickel silver plus an extra 5 thou brass layer on the front one - photos of the prototype suggest it might be made of wood with a metal facing. Buffer shanks are from Alan Gibson (4908, Early GWR, Dean). Reggie the Soldering Unit made a neat job of soldering these on. 1.5mm square brass rod for the valances stiffens the whole thing nicely and gives it some much needed strength. The front chassis spacer slides under a little bit of 1.5mm brass angle the same width soldered to the back of the buffer beam. This secures the chassis and keeps it centred. At the back there's a 10BA bolt into a captive nut on the running plate. No disasters today. Alan

Yes Killian, I found that photo in Des Coakham’s book where it’s identified as No 2. It’s a useful image for gauging dimensions and proportions along with his info on wheel sizes which helped me to scale the photo. There seems to have been five built altogether, numbered 2, 9, 10, 13 and 16. All started as tender engines and all were converted to tanks around 1900.

Ok, where do you surrender?

Many thanks for posting this photo Leslie. I can see details here that I missed in the other pics I've seen. Very useful. Please convey my kindest regards to The Syndicate's lawyers and assure them that I will treat said image as visual reference material only and will observe the laws of the land at all times

I'm with you David. I'm continually impressed by what people are doing with 3D printing, and the element of repeatability has to be a major advantage but every time I consider attempting it myself, the task looks less like a learning curve and more like a vertical cliff face and I speak as someone who wrote educational software for children with learning difficulties back in the day. OK, back in the last century. Things have moved on a long way since the days of BBC Basic and such skills as I had then have long since evaporated and wouldn't be applicable now in any case. So many projects, so little time, so no time available to learn new stuff! So I retreat and stick with what I know. Probably it's just old dogs/new tricks syndrome.

Wheels for No9 prepared and crankpins fitted without drama but then the inevitable pratfall. Gibson wheels are sometimes a very tight fit on the axles and need reamed a smidgeon. However.... The cack-handed fitter charged with the job reamed them a smidgeon and a bit with the result that they were too loose on the axles to be reliably straight or secure even with Locktite or its equivalent. Idiot! He was docked a day's pay and sent to bed without any supper. New wheels ordered. However it did allow wheels to be temporarily slipped onto the axles to check the compensation beam before it was permanently fixed in place. Beam in place.. and it all sits level. Yay! Lesson for the day - Don't listen to podcasts while trying to do delicate stuff. I blame Dominic Sandbrook and Tom Holland. Alan

I managed to see them in Birmingham in 2007 - maybe you were there too - when Walter Becker was still with us. Brilliant night. I still have the t-shirt Back in the days before the internet and immediate gratification, I heard "Do It Again" on the radio and was bowled over. However the DJ didn't say who it was and it was 6 months before I heard it again and found out who the band were. The rest as they say in history, many hours of pleasure and a fine set of vinyl discs from which I will not be parted except at gunpoint.

"Little Green is one of my favourite Joni Mitchell songs - and perhaps a better name for a layout than Free Man in Paris. Or Led Zeppeiln's Kashmir, Steely Dan's Pretzel Logic" Reelin' in the Years? Change of the Guard? Sorry, I'll get my coat Little Green - Perfect choice. And a lovely song.

Looking magnificent. Best of luck for the show David. I'll cross my fingers here too.

I already have more BCDR locomotives than can fit on the traverser at Kilmore but that's no reason not to build another one This is old Number 9, built by Sharp, Stewart as a tender engine in 1887, rebuilt as a tank engine in 1900. It survived into UTA ownership. Coupling rods made first. A set of LNWR etches from Alan Gibson are the right length, saving a lot of cutting and drilling. Drilling pilot holes for the driving axles in a pair of chassis frame blanks... drilling a pivot hole for a compensation beam.... shaping the frames... and erecting the chassis. I'm planning to drive this one from the front coupled axle. High Level SlimLiner+ gearbox for this one. So far, so good Alan

I did give them a dose of weathering wash but you'd hardy notice. Most of it ran off again!

Paint for the Hunslett. First an overall coat of airbrushed Humbrol Crimson acrylic.. Then some Humbrol metalcote for the running plate and a matt black/leather/metalcote mix for the smokebox. Enamel this time. Paint stripped off some details such as the safety valves and whistle. ... and finally a thinner mix of the same stuff applied all over and wiped off. Glove nicely weathered. Some details touched up after the weathering wash. Oil cans are from ModelU Hunslett is just about finished now, bar a bunker load of coal. IMG_5899.MOV That's enough of grubby shunters for now. I hear the BCDR calling again. Alan

Wonderful stuff. And what a great bunch of characters. I can almost hear the chatter and smell the pipe tobacco.

Stellar job! Totally convincing.

Great jobs both. Proper model making!

There's a surprising amount of free space inside this Hunslett so a sound installation looked feasible. The sound chip was hardwired with all the joins covered with heat shrink sleeving. The speaker wires are connected to the chip via a mini-plug & socket arrangement which will allow the speaker to be permanently mounted and un-plugged if/when the chassis needs to come out. Testing the wiring. Despite a 50:50 chance of getting it right first time, I invariably wire the motor terminals the wrong way round so that it runs backwards with the controller set for forwards. Easily fixed but irritating. IMG_5818.MOV Yes, it all fits. The speaker is in the cab where the backhead should be (can't be seen) and the chip and stay-alive capacitor are in the boiler. IMG_5827.MOV Paint next. Alan

Cleans up nicely does Hunslett But nothing like a coat of primer to show up where the filler needs to go. I must have squandered about half a mile of brass rod getting those handrails the way I wanted them. I'm never entirely happy mounting chassis with bolts front and back, given the chance that tightening both could twist the chassis. So this one has a bolt at the back and this little bit of bent 1mm brass rod at the front which locates into a slightly oversize hole in the front chassis spacer. Chips soon Alan

It’s very clean!

A rare sighting at Loughan Quay this evening. No idea how it strayed here but the station master at Clogherhead said the 22.15 from Drogheda didn't come through. IMG_5799.MOV The locals aren't sure what to make of it.

Thanks. Does doesn't it!

Hunslett now has pickups. 31swg phosphor bronze wire shaped to hook over the wheel flanges at the top. Since @Northroader (I think) suggested this method somewhere a while ago, I've been using it and it works well. The hook keeps the pickup wire in place and there are two possible contact areas - wheel flange and wheel back - to keep things moving along. Each brake hanger has 2 bits soldered together. The RSU did this job very neatly Brake rigging is 0.45mm brass rod The whole nine yards - pickups, brakes and sand pipes. Phew! Trial run under DC at Loughan Quay. Bodywork isn't secured yet. IMG_5771.MOV Hardly any burnt fingers today Alan

I've always found cab roofs difficult. Should they be removable or not. If you solder them as the instructions for this kit suggest, it can make painting the inside of the cab or adding a crew difficult/impossible. If you paint first, then soldering becomes difficult with the possibility of damaging the paint. The way this particular kit has gone together, soldering from the inside isn't possible anyway so in this case, removable looks like the better option. I have used clips on some locos in the form of springy wires soldered at each corner on the underside of the roof. These slide into the corners of the cab and hold the roof in place. It's effective but tricky to do well and mine are not always entirely secure. I've lost count of the number of times at exhibitions I've noticed daylight showing between cab top and roof. I've also used the following slightly more secure solution on some builds. A strip soldered across the cab at roof level, either front to back or side to side contains a captive nut. A hole in the cab roof allows a bolt (14BA c/s in this case) to screw into this pulling the cab roof down tight. The bolt head is then concealed by a dummy ventilation hatch BluTacked or Tacky Waxed in place. I know these Hunsletts didn't have cab roof hatches - there are ventilation flaps front and back of the cab - but mine had one fitted after the loco was bought from the MSC by the well known (to me anyway) Belfast engineering concern of Sprocket, Layshaft and Moonshine Ltd for use in their private sidings complex. Well, it's my railway Alan

More Hunslett. The boiler came pre-rolled and also had a cutaway to clear the gearbox/motor. It just needed tightened and seamed. Adding the smokebox was the usual struggle to get sufficient heat into the job. The front sandboxes are complicated little items but BluTack and brass rods held everything together for soldering. The rods were then trimmed back. High Level Minispinner gearbox checked for any glitches. Worm gear was fouling the final drive cog causing clicketty running so it got moved up the motor shaft a fraction which cured the problem. Smooth as silk now. Not sure how much welly these little can motors have but we'll soon see. Crankpins fitted to wheels and for once I think I got them all in straight. It's worth spending time on these, countersinking the hole at the back of the wheel and thread-locking the pins. I've had crankpins wind themselves out before now, meaning the wheels had to come off again to fix it. The axle holes in the wheels also get countersunk and the axle ends chamfered before the GW wheel press does the job of fitting and quartering the wheels. What a brilliant device! Rods on and a little reaming of the holes to get rid of tight spots. Rolls freely under finger power. Another bridge crossed! Lots of detail still to add but it's beginning to look like a loco. The tanks are full of lead. The boiler is just trial fitted for now. I'll have to confront pickups soon Alan

I didn't know about the sugar trick but I tried it on the current build. Seems to work well. Certainly gets into corners the old toothbrush can't reach! Sweet talking my way to a clean machine..

Ah that’s a puzzle solved! I was struggling to make sense of the 2 pics together