DJ Dangerous

So Mark Cuffe had his own run of Dapol commissions for Mark's Models, at one stage?

Larry Pucket has several useful instructional DCC videos.

Love the EZ Command. I hope that other controllers are so nice to use. The simplistic layout is great so far and the power dial feels excellent. Limited to ten functions but that's enough for me, for now.

Were these one of @leslie10646's "Provincial Wagons" commissions? How much???

A few lessons learned the other night as a DCC beginner, after frabtically emailing people for help! Thanks, guys! 1. A "blanking plate" is a really crap name. It's looks like a circuit board, and nothing like one would expect a blanking plate to look like. 2. The blanking plate is removed by lifting it vertically upwards. Several members advised me that it can be levered up gently using a screwdriver, but I had to grip the sturdiest part with a pliers to break the dynamic friction. 3. All ESU chips, whether blank, IRM or Murphy Models, are set to loco no. 03 by default. 4. Drive hold and locomotive brakes are awesome for throttling up without the loco moving off. 5. There is no consensus between manufacturers so they all asign different functions to different features. F0 being the directional white marker lights seems universal. 6. On speaking with both Hatton's and Gaugemaster, a typical DCC controller like the NCE PowerCab (2,0 amp) or Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance (3,5 amp) is apt for scales up to OO Gauge, and will run a small O Gauge loco on a small layout, but for larger O Gauge locos and / or larger layouts, DCC boosters are required, and they're like €200 a pop. According to Rails of sheffield, the NCE PowerCab can run 4 x OO Gauge trains or 8 x N Gauge trains. According to Hatton's, the same controller can run up to 12 trains simultaneously, "dependant on power draw" . So, no consensus there! With a Bachmann EZ Command (36-501), I, at least, need two hands to "drive" a loco, so filming and driving is difficult, at least for now. So no videos of this learner!

Lovely stuff, TTC. Any chance of a close-up of the interior? Also love the little P&T van and the Atlantean.

How do I change "notches"? Do all ESU decoders arrive pre-set to loco no. 3? Tried a MM 567 decoder in 132S and it's also set as loco no. 3, as 054 was. The MM default function list is quite different to the IRM default function list. I had suspected this, hence starting the thread.

Another Murphy Models Baby GM at Hatton's, 181 Class no. 187 in IE livery, DCC sound fitted, £207 GBP: https://www.hattons.co.uk/1405830/murphy_models_mm0187_po_irish_class_181_187_in_ie_livery_commissioned_by_murphy_models_of_dublin_pre_ow/stockdetail

Haven't a clue what any of that meant!

Murphy Models 141 Class no. 146 in IE livery for £202 GBP at Hatton's: https://www.hattons.co.uk/1405764/bachmann_branchline_mm0146_po02_irish_class_141_146_in_ie_livery_commissioned_by_murphy_models_pre_owned_dcc_f/stockdetail DCC fitted but it doesn't say which decoder. The description is interesting: Irish Class 141 146 in IE livery. Commissioned by Murphy Models. - Pre-owned - DCC fitted - Fair box Packaging : Fair box Numbering : As per factory Bodyshell finish : Pristine Running : Recently Tested and Fine Control modifications : Digital Fitted Original Product Description: LIMIT OF 1 PER CUSTOMER.This locomotive features a 21 pin DCC socket and directional headlights (which can be switched off whilst double-heading). A seperately switched red light will also be fitted. 512 of each version will be produced The models will be released in 3 lots of 4 locos, with approximately 6 weeks between delieveries. Each lot will comprise a Class 141 and Class 181 with different liveries per class. Fleet number: 147 Light formation: 2+2 Tablet catcher (for single line running)? No Number of aerials: 2 Makers plate? No Dayglo panel? Yes Front vent? No Weathered? No

So the Heljan 48DS won't be of use for an Irish-themed layout? https://www.hattons.co.uk/directory/versiondetails/6003/heljan_o_4wdm_ruston_48ds_shunter

Slap a bit of glue on the backs and stick them to the wall.

Morning! Do any members have a standardised fuction list that they use across all of their various Irish diesels? As in, rather than having a different function list for each class, what do members find best to use universally? I understand that it will be an entirely subjective topic for each person. My controller has ten functions, and I'd like to make the most of them. So far, I'm only using: F0: Directional White Marker Lights F1: Engine Start-Up and Shut-Down F2: Horn F3: Other Horn F5: Drive Hold F8: Locomotive Brake I've tried the F7 Flange Squeal but am not sure where and when it should be used. So F4, F6 and F9 are currently unused. I guess directional headlights would be a nice function, as would coupling sounds and directional red marker lights. Also, I don't understand the difference between F5 (Drive Hold) and F8 (Locomotive Brake). Both seem to do the same thing, F5 without sound and F8 with sound. It's only a short end to end type layout, using the word "layout" very loosely. It's just a piece of wood. I've attached here the revised default A Class DCC Function List for reference. Any thoughts and reasoning are much appreciated. 18.10.2021_-_A_Class_EMD_decoder_functions.pdf

Another pair of Eucon's, £22 this time: https://www.hattons.co.uk/1409800/bachmann_branchline_36_101_po15_2_x_45ft_intermodal_containers_in_eucon_livery_pre_owned_very_good_box/stockdetail

Picked up a three pack of Cavalex HFA hoppers second-hand from Hatton's. Quite nice models. Have been curious about them for a long time. The decals aren't as well applied as Accurascale models, and they don't wheel quite as freely. Nice nonetheless.

The only one I can get locally, 3 In 1...

Only a quarter left? Already???

Couldn't resist buying a pack to see. Lovely lovely wagons. And with a drop of my new best friend, silicon lubricant, on a few of the axle points, super free-runners!

I'm getting the impression from reading online, that sewing machine oil is lighter than 3 In 1, circulates better, leaves no residue and contains no acids, but that it is also known as "light oil".

Heading to sunnier climes? I know a good spot.

Any chance that this would be a possibility, @BosKonay, or would it be too much hassle? I know nothing about building fora etc!

Demand is too high, @leslie10646. Time to jack up the price and clear out the riff raff.

OK, down a bit of a rabbit hole, there. Found 3 In 1 Antigrip (cylinder lubricant) on the Leroy Merlin Spanish site. Not listed on the Canarian website. No label to show contents. Then found Silca Antigrip on the same site. Label does show... It's graphite powder lubricant for locks. No shipping here as that's for Spain, not the Canaries. Then found the same product on Amazon. Amazon.co.uk don't ship here but Amazon.es do! €4 for an 18g tube with free shipping... Now onto "light oil", 'light grease" and "sewing machine oil". Thanks, @Mike 84C!

Yes, Leroy Merlin (large hardware shop) sell "3 In 1" brand door-lock lubricant. Will check the label on the back next time I'm there. Thanks for that, would never have thought of it otherwise. I just assumed it was regular 3 In 1 oil in a smaller tin with a fancy label.

Regarding lubricant (shut up about the weekends, @JasonB!!!), and not just for the stiff couplings on the 42' flats, what is "silicon lubricant" suitable for and what is it NOT suitable for? How did you solve this, @Georgeconna? I cannot get graphite powder, here, and no retailers will post it. I slathered the stiff couplings on some of my 42' flats with 3 In 1 oil and it worked a charm, but I understand that it may cause damage to the plastic long-term. The only thing that I cab find here that's even close is "silicon lubricant", designed for rubber, wood, vinyl and plastic, according to the label. Also, on that topic, three products recommended for locomotive maintenance are "light oil", "light grease" and "sewing machine oil". None of these are available here, and no retailers will post them. There is no model railway scene, no RC car scene, no antique sewing machine scene, so what are the alternatives, in general hardware store products, not specialist niche products? Aside from grabbing both pieces of rolling stock to pull them apart, is there any trick for more subtle uncoupling of the IRM magnetic couplers? Like, tapping them with another magnet or something?