David Holman

Assuming this is a semi freelance job, why not consider a 4-6-2T? That should give space in the cab.

Code 75 definitely worthwhile. Hard enough to hide 5'3 in 16.5mm gauge, but recent projects show that finer track, carefully weathered and ballasted can be very effective.

Looking good and especially like the concepts, with tracks well spaced out, as per country branches in Ireland. Like the idea of drawing up timetables too - these things all help in developing interest in how the layout can be operated, stock to acquire and so on. From such things, come the all important atmosphere of a layout.

Several good things happened today - the latest MRJ arrived, my first dental check up in over two years resulted in no treatment needed [much to my surprise, though I didn't get a sticker] and, at last, my track building materials have arrived! I ordered code 100 flat bottomed rail [same as Arigna Town & Belmullet] to create light weight track [Code 124 is more usual for 7mm scale], plus 6mm & 7mm wide copper clad strip for the sleepers. The 7mm is for the point timbers & the 6mm for plain track. I couldn't find any scale 9 foot lengths, so had to buy packs of 18" long strip and cut these up into 63mm lengths with a slitting disk in the Dremel. The photos show what a mess this made, and the jig I built for Arigna Town to make scale 60' lengths of plain track. Essentially, you fill up the spaces with the sleepers and solder one rail in place. This half track is then laid in situ, curving as required and held with double sided tape, so the second rail can be soldered in place. There are four points to be made, two Ys , a left and a right. These are going to be copies of the ones custom made for me by Marcway [on Arigna/Belmullet], only this time I'll be making my own using the gauge I turned on my mini lathe. The Y point is a massive space saver, as can be seen from comparing the two pictures below. It is just 30 cm long, despite being 1.8m radius, the same as the standard ones, which are 45cm long. So, this afternoon, after cutting some 9' sleepers, I then taped basic tracings of the three point designs [Y, L & R] to some pieces of board and then marked where the sleepers, rail ends and point V went. The sleepers were then numbered on these and the strips cut to shape and likewise numbered. Double sided tape was then stuck to the boards and the sleepers placed on this. So, at long last, I'm now ready to start track building.

Must admit that was my thought too, probably because more 'traditional' modelling techniques have always been somewhat hybrid in nature, mixing materials too. However, it is interesting to see how 3D modellers are problem solving these days. There is little, it seems that cannot be sorted through ingenuity, the mouse and keyboard!

VERY neat work, especially when you think that, in a straight line, even a 0.5mm deviation would be a scale three inches out of alignment! Not sure the top of the stair post is the best place to do riveting though!

Humbrol or Precision 'Track Colour' are ok, especially for sleepers though weathering guru Martyn Welch uses a blend of Humbrol orange 82, leather 62 and matt black 33, adding grey 64 to show gatherings of oily sludge. That is for main running lines. Sidings tend to be darker, so he adds bauxite 133 and gunmetal 53. Dry brushing gunmetal on to sleepers painted with track colour gives a nice effect of weathered wood. Have used these methods and they work well. Ideally, you need colour photos of areas similar to what you are modelling to copy. On a large layout, a general spray of track colour can be enough, then use weathering powders to pick out areas of brake dust, or oily patches and so on. On a small layout, it can be fun [?] to really go to town on detailing humble track and when you see what the likes of Martyn and Gordon Gravett achieve, it is well worth aspiring to.

Dainty, fiddly things, signals - but very satisfying. MSE kits are great and am sure you will do well with them.

Somebody is getting a fine introduction to the gentle art of 7mm broad gauge, hopefully. There aren't many of us in this club, so a new edition will be very welcome!

Worst cases I've ever seen were on the Circumvesuvio Railway between Naples and Sorrento. In a pre-Covid age, a few years ago, it was impossible to know what the livery was because every square centimetre of every unit was covered with graffiti. Shame, but then with a Mafia presence still strong in the area, nobody is going to argue I guess...

Possibly, though you might want to paint the track first and even before that indulge in plenty of trial running. Faults are easier to deal with before everything is covered in ballast.

An impressive start, Adrian. Sensible approach too, so deserves to do well. Love the weathering on the depot floor and intrigued by the DAS clay. Use it myself, but how did you get from the rails being completely covered over to the neat channels in the later photos?

Not sure, to be honest. I think I picked a few up at one of the Reading trade shows, but several years ago, so could be anyones!

Still no sign of my track materials, which should have been here this weekend, so am continuing with making buildings - at this rate I'll have a trackless diorama! Anyway, the station building is largely complete now, with the roof and walls painted, along with a couple of lamps, posters and noticeboards. I've lettered one of these MGWR and the other SLNCR, as [wherever Northport Quay actually is], both companies had a hand in building the line, while the GSWR and WL&WR also have running rights. Well, that's my story, anyway. A bit of work with weathering powders completes the picture. A conifer, temporarily pinched from Belmullet, shows how the missing part of the gable end is easily hidden. Thoughts then turned to the warehouse at the right hand end of the layout. Its main purpose is to hide the headshunt exit on to the pier, so it needs to be big enough to do this. Casting around for ideas, an internet search of 'old Irish warehouses' turned up a rather nice group in Ramelton, County Donegal. As well as their modern conversions, there are also good photos of the buildings in original condition, with some nice close ups of the doors and windows. Not sure, but I think they were once part of a brewery, but am sure there are folk on this forum who can confirm. So, with this for inspiration, have drawn out something based on Ramelton Quay, which has now been transformed into into a basic shell using foam board. In front of the warehouse can been another project as, in a moment of weakness, I ordered a Langley Models kit of a Clyde Puffer. Not cheap, but then in size not far removed from a loco kit, so fair enough. There is a large, resin cast hull [nicely detailed], with lots of white metal castings. To begin with, it will probably be a project to take down the Club to work on - not least because there are a couple of folk there who know a lot more about boats than me and the last time I built a ship model was probably an Airfix kit in my early teens. Clyde Puffers were not exactly commonplace in the west of Ireland, but in my bit of fiction, small coasters go from Northport Quay to various off shore islands, as well as venturing inland to serve communities on the larger lakes. Not unlike their actual duties in Scotland, of course and am very much intending that other coastal craft can be built to provide a change of scene from time to time. Finally, also made up the shell of a corrugated iron goods store, based on one that can been seen on the platform at Westport Quay. It uses Wills corrugated asbestos sheets, which though intended for 4mm scale, actually look fine in 7mm. The various colours are because the sheets were rescued from previous projects - waste not, want not!

Just goes to show how effective a simple piece of cosmetic surgery can be in changing appearances.

Fascinating - though all those louvres would be a real challenge to model...

That works well.

Hopefully not. Marcway Models actually have plenty, but there was a mix up between the shop and the stores.

Still no sign of the track building parts [though hopefully here soon], so have been carrying on with the station building, which is now ready to be painted. The pictures below show the walls and windows in grey primer, while the roof tiles are still in plain card. The roof is the traditional thin strips of card, snipped every 7mm to represent individual slates. These are then cut to lengths of between 8 and 12 slates, before being laid on the false roof and fixed with PVA. The ridge tiles are slightly thicker card, from a cereal box, while the chimneys were made from mounting board, covered with DAS clay and, once dry, scribed to represent random stone blocks. Chimney pots are plastic tube with an extra detailing strip of 60thou. Guttering meanwhile is two strips of plastic, laminated together and then filed/sanded to made the front edge rounded. At each end, a short section is filed to represent half round guttering, but most of the straight edge is then fixed to the wall with impact adhesive. The subterfuge is not visible from normal viewing angles. I also added some [very] basic interior detailing. In 7mm scale, windows are often big enough to see into, so it can be important to at least create the impression there is something inside.

Probably fine for a home layout, but hard soldering every time for me as my layouts regularly get taken apart (well, at least they used to) and put back together again for exhibitions. Am sure it is all this movement that has the potential to cause problems. The main ones I've had to deal with were broken solder joints on point tie bars, though there are ways to minimise this. The two worst were firstly a single stray strand causing a layout wide short and shut down and, most recently a dry solder joint on the plug/socket for my hand held controller. Both immensely frustrating as you first need to find where the problem is - though generally easy to fix, as long as you remembered to pack a soldering iron that is. I also once had a wire break on an alignment bolt on the fiddleyard. Unfortunately, I'd only got an 18 watt iron with me and spent 20 minutes gently warming up what seemed like the whole layout in an effort to get the solder to run! Nowadays, always take the 100 watt iron with me... Given I have attended over 100 shows, the number of problems has been minimal, but can't help thinking screw joints would increase the chances of something going wrong. A belt and braces approach seems to be best. No experience of snap connectors, but again, should be fine for home use.

Excellent news!

New Irish Lines now available to subscribers. Numerous contributions from folk of this parish, including yours truly, but perhaps most useful is an article by Andy Cundick, because you get pictures of his work. An all round eclectic mix, as usual very interesting too, not least a 15mm AEC twin railcar. At over 2m long, entire layouts have been built in less space - lovely stuff!

Fine combination.

Lovely stuff! See to remember Gordon used masking tape for canvas roofs and tarpaulins. Once painted, it has just enough texture, though this was in 7mm scale. As for resin casting, it has worked well for me in 7mm scale, just making masters for a side and an end. Am wondering if 2mm scale vans could be cast as a single, solid, body with an etched underframe and the same for loaded or tarpaulin covered opens?

A fine layout, really well conceived. The track laying disguises the narrow gauge superbly too. Will certainly miss this one.