Glenderg

John 2:1-11

Me too please. R.

Irish Rail use 54E1 rail profile, which is 159mm high. Scaled Code 75mm is 145mm high, whereas Code 100 is 194mm, far too big altogether. Image below shows how close Code 75 is to the real thing (shown in blue outline). Not much can be done about the 16.5mm back to back against the 21mm proper, but shur hey. JB, this might suit you for painting the rails? http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/TT4580/page/1 Richie P.S American Code 83 is almost a perfect match, for the absolute sticklers out there

Height of the rail. Code 75 is lower than code 100,and looks better. That radius is fine. 2' is the smallest. Richie.

Speak for yerself, I'm wrecked!!!

Tempted to go, even just to see what exactly is going on at Joe Barlow's stand....

unlined = dirty

Since I'm the only northsider I'll be holding some stock, so if some folk want a coffee and a bit of craic, I'd be happy to discharge same. R

Model Colour is undiluted paint, Model Air is pre-thinned. It really doesn't bother me if I have to thin out the Model Colour paints. Dump the whole lot out into a little bowl, thin to suit, and syringe it back in. Vallejo have a their own thinners, but water is fine. Either or, as I said, but if you're not fully comfortable with thinning, Model Air would be the one to use. Both ranges can be sat on shelves for a time, and you'll get separation of pigment and carrier fluid. Shaking well is not good enough, you'll have to get in there with a busted brush and make sure the mix is even. I'd be inclined to go for the 16 colour set, as many can be used for weathering, buffer beams and so on. Buying paints online is fine if you're replacing a known colour, not good for trying to colour match. (mithril.ie supply at a good price in Ireland) and Gamersworld on Jervis Street have the best selection I know of in a shop. They carry other brands too, so it's not all Wehrmacht Feldgrau tones etc. HTH. R.

Looks like this series of Brake Generating Steam Vans. The only one where the window arrangement and doors match, but tricky to be 100% sure.

I know I'm doing a JM on it by responding to me own post, but having read the thread fully, a few pointers are warranted. Tamiya paint has an exceptionally high alcohol content, and if not dry) plasticised) will peel like sunburn skin when the tape comes off. Two ways to absolutely prevent this. Wash the model in fairy liquid etc. Greasy models are a no-go. Even a thin coat of primer is preferred to a factory surface. Key with 0000 wire wool if primers not available. Halfords stuff is appalling. One minute it's misty snow, the next snotty ice cream. Hmg produce a primer for brass, sold by Cork outfit mithril.ie that is exceptional and they provided me with technical specs to back it up. For more standard work, army painter make coloured primers, but their white is a thing of beauty. Sets in about 5 minutes and available from the gaming lads on jervis St in Dublin. If you want to prime white, mask the stripes, and do orange and black later (best method), there is no better alternative IMHO. Cheap compressors from Taiwan are as good as expensive ones. The pulsing myth is just that. When it begins to fail, after about 300 hours, the internal rubber seals loose integrity, and its just a paper weight. Or something you donate to the MRSI... There are several low tack tapes available from builders providers etc. After years of use, green frog tape is excellent for large area coverage. All of the above is said only to prevent "the expansion of your vocabulary" as Tony Wright would opine. They are merely tips based on the inordinate amount of mistakes I've made, in the interest that any other punter may avoid. I'm not Martyn Welch or Tim Shackleton, nor claim to be. I'm sure others have their "go to" methods. Looking forward to you getting stuck into washes and powders next noel. R

Ha! A few years ago I had one of those cheap Chinese compressors and equally bad twin pack airbrushes with the blue inlay. Inspired by the lads here, gorgeous George in particular, I started messing with old br stock. At the time I'd built up an enormous collection of enamel paints, and the drying time and noxious fumes necessitated a move to acrylics, vallejo in particular. The drying time is similar, in that all paint has to plasticise, but quick bodges, fixing screw ups, and whacking with a hairdryer all help. I've no doubt that had I the time to offer that freebie again, it would be both more refined and expansive. Possibly during the summer, but min/max 4 required Put simply, you have to buy the best masking tape, clean your equipment to a surgical standard, and be patient. Immensely satisfying part of the hobby. R.

I was 5. That's a hell of a long time ago

Is that the mechanism that's not meshing or is it pickups? Appears smoother under a heavy load, but impressive looking bit of kit nonetheless. R.

Leslie's a good bargainer, but I'm not sure he's into organ dealing. Yet. Going to have to get me one of them surely....

Yes Dave. They are contractor designed units, and look substantially underwhelming for the task they're assigned to. They'll look like Friday nights curry tray of a Saturday morning within 6 months....

That colour you refer to is known as "hull red",which is actually brown,with the slightest tint of red (rust). RAL 8002 is the closest, and matches the finish of brake vans parked up with the white X on the side

The later van has been explained in some detail here - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/5448-10-Ton-GSWR-Ballast-Brake-Plough-Van

The weedspray tankers are possibly the oldest serving part of rolling stock left on the network, and derive from these wagons with the Bullied Triangulated Underframe. Effectively they cut the undergear off, placed them on 4 wheel 20/22' flats or 42's with a few iso mounts welded on, and off they went. As far as colour is concerned, I think "dirt" is the shade yer looking for

The 0.5mm will do for everything once you get the hang of it. There's a regulating screw at the rear of the airbrush to prevent the trigger and needle fully retracting, so you can throttle the amount of opening to suit the amount paint you want to spray. Other airbrushes also have valve underneath the nozzle which when tightened, will also regulate the amount of air entering the nozzle. I rarely use a 0.2mm or 0.3mm brush for the reasons above. Richie.

Big Needle for Big Work Small Needle for Small Work.. Just make sure the nozzle, needle and nozzle cap are all from the same size range. Don't mix and match 0.2mm needle with 0.5mm nozzle and 0.3mm nozzle cap. A blunderbuss you'll be holding, not an airbrush R.

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/660-Worsley-Works-ParkRoyal-build

Boffintastic! Even more impressive that you didn't get a single bit of paint on the timberwork

Very tidy work, looking forward to updates on this.