irishthump

I'm no expert, but is this not a tad expensive? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331422674305?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The 141's use leds and these usually don't flicker before blowing they usually die suddenly! I have a feeling it might be a dodgy PCB which I believe was an issue with a few of these locos. I've never stripped one of these locos down completely but I assume there are 2 leds at each end of the loco. According to the service sheet there's an led board that sits into each end so I imagine the leds are wired onto this. It may simply be a loose wire so check that out first. To check the led would require it being removed from the loco or you may be able to apply power to the ends of the wire feeding the led but be careful to use the correct voltage. If it's the PBD that's at fault then the printed circuit powering the cab 1 lights may have burned out. It's possible to insert a jumper wire once you can identify the circuit but it would require some delicate soldering work.

Although it's not in the picture I sealed around the bottom of the speaker with black mastic. But I will try mounting the speaker directly to the inside of the shell.

I also have some "sugar cube" speakers which sound incredible for their size, I installed one in a US loco and it sounds great. I plan to try one in a 141 soon and I'll post a video when I can.

I stand corrected on the horn sound! I programmed different horns for each engine so that explains the difference in tone. You're right in that any individual sound can be removed and switched with another from the ESU sound library. The sound file is the 071 file and I just switched the engine sound. I'll do that when I get the chance, Noel. I presume you mean the braking sound as the engine comes to a stop? I deliberately filmed the locos standing still and used the manual notching function so as to give an accurate comparison between the two speakers.

I recently installed sound decoders in a couple of my MM 141's and I thought I'd post this little video comparing the sound from different speakers. Both locos contain the same Loksound decoders and are both loaded with the same soundfile. The volume settings are identical on both. MM142 is fitted with a bass enhanced speaker that can be bought from several suppliers. I removed the back from the housing to allow it to fit into the body without any surgery to the loco. MM165 used a 4ohm speaker from Maplins and was a perfect fit into the cradle on the loco frame. These speakers are available from several other suppliers but I just happened to see them for sale in Maplins and picked up a couple at €4.50 each. The part no. is ABS-224-RC which is a 4ohm speaker but they also sell an 8ohm speaker (part no. ABS-216-RC) which is also suitable for the LOksound V4. (Both speakers will also work with Zimo decoders.) One thing with this speaker is that you have to secure it into the cradle either through the screw holes provided or with some sticky mastic or Blu Tac. Otherwise the speaker will rattle like crazy! Anyway here's the video, decide for yourself which sounds better. But I think the Maplins speaker as a but more low end to it.

From what I know their uncoupler is simply a small ramp that is raised by a solenoid or servo. There are neater was to uncouple stock to be honest.....

Yeah, but it should....

I think Boskonay has used them on his layout.....

I just thought a capacitor might be a good idea as the Lima 201 has such poor pickup you might get some flickering, especially over pointwork. Another issue is that I installed tail lights on a brake van which I controlled with a Hornby decoder. The lights were linked to F0 but every time there was a break in the pickup the lights would go out rather than flicker and you would have to turn them back on with F0. Apparently, some decoders "remember" function settings after a power interuption but some don't. I got around the problem by wiring the Leds to the motor outputs on the decoder instead and using the throttle to turn them on and off!

I like that idea! Are you going to use some form of "stay alive" for the decoder?

Have you tried different speed step settings? I have found that with certain decoders CV2 changes only work when the loco was set for 128 speed steps as opposed to 28.

That was me, here's the link - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page12#120 It's actually the Hornby HST. The running is vastly improved but it still suffers from poor pickup (although it has slightly better pickup then a Lima).

Have you tried adjusting the starting voltage for the decoder? This is CV2 but I'm not sure if it's supported on the decoder you used. Personally I would'nt bother with this loco on DCC, it's just too much hard work to get it running well and even then the results won't be great. You could also consider using the body on a different chassis. I think the Athearn SD45 is the closest fit and requires some work but as you know the Athearn chassis are reliable even with the stock motor.

If you're talking about the capacitor that is installed across the motor contacts (the white square in the photo below) then yes, it should be removed before fitting a decoder as it will cause running problems. Also make sure the loco runs as well as possible on DC before installing the decoder. If it's runs poorly on DC it will ten times as bad on DCC! Power pickup is a problem on Lima locos, there is only pickup form one side on the motor bogie and the opposite side on the rear bogie. It may be worthwhile installing extra pickups on the rear bogie.

I plan to soon, I haven't had a chance to install a Loksound into this loco yet. But the speaker is the same one in the 071 which always sound fine to me. I'm sure you would get a bit more "low end" from a bass reflex speaker but I doubt it would make a huge difference. I used the bass reflex in my other 141's but I refused to cut up the loco so I simply removed the back from the speaker. Did'nt seem to effect the sound.

Like Warbonnet says the Bachmann F units I have use a budget version of the Tsunami. I posted this video before, but here it is again.... The sound quality is the same as the high end Tsunamis, but there are very few other features. No start-up or shutdown sequence, and only horn and bell. The horn has 3 different sounds to choose from but none of them would pass for an Irish loco! However the decoder is fully adjustable for motor control and the engine sound can be adjusted for manual notching. To be honest I wouldn't bother with trying to use US decoders for Irish diesels. The engine sounds are bang on for 121/141/071 and 201's but the lack of correct horns is a big problem. Another factor is that design of the Tsunami means you would have to remove the existing circuit board from a MM loco and wire in the Tsunami. Not a huge or difficult job but why bother when you can plug a 21 pin Loksound or Zimo straight into the existing circuit board?

That's where I find the ESU Loksound comes out ahead. The Lokprogrammer is around €140 and all the sound files are free to download from ESU. They have a large collection of European and American sound files (as well as miscellaneous sounds) which can be mixed and matched to any degree. The decoders are a bit more expensive, around €99 from some suppliers and come with a speaker (although the speaker is too large for 141/181 locos. Maplins sell a speaker for €4.50 which is suitable. It's a drop-in fit for the speaker cradle on the 141/181.

You're actually talking about ESU Loksound V3.5 and V4. Mr Soundguy did the first 141/181 sound decoder which was available from DCC supplies and was loaded onto a Loksound V3.5. For whatever reason, Mr Soundguy stopped working with DCC supplies and started supplying the 141 sound file for Model Shop Belfast on Zimo decoders. You're right though in that the Loksound V3.5 file was never modified to be loaded on to the V4 which was only becoming available at the time. The V3.5 is no longer produced but can sometimes pick them up second hand. I believe DCC Supplies still has the 141 sound file and can "re blow" a V3.5 if you can get your hands on one.

Apologies, Enniscorthyman! Yes I've seen your videos, I was just surprised no one had posted that particular video here. @Noel: Sound does seem a little distorted. Maybe he just had the volume turned up for the benefit of the video.

I checked Mr Soundguy's website but he hasn't got these available yet. But he's obviously planning on releasing them soon.

I just saw this video over on RMWeb and I was surprised I hadn't seen it here. Sounds excellent IMHO.

It doesn't really matter if you run in a loco on DC or DCC. As Dave said, the motor receives DC current from the decoder anyway. Running in a loco on DCC won't effect the decoder. (Unless the loco drive binds right from the start and stalls the motor, but newer motors don't draw enough amps to burn out a decoder even when stalled.) The reason manufacturers recommend running in before installing a decoder is to make sure it's the mechanism is in order before opening up the loco for the DCC install. If you install a decoder and it doesn't run well you have no way of knowing if it's the decoder or motor at fault! Also when opening the loco you run the risk of damaging it and invalidating the warrantee.

It's best to modify any point (insulfrog or electrofrog) by wiring jumpers between the stock and closure rails. This way you no longer rely on the blades making an electrical connection. You can then paint the sides of the rails to your hearts content and not have to worry about poor conductivity.

You would have to be very careful, there is no gap between the metal and the plastic. And with Peco points the frog is much smaller. Not to mention the fact that the paint will wear of quite quickly and be spread all over the layout and the wheels of your rolling stock.