Jump to content

irishthump

Members
  • Posts

    1,835
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by irishthump

  1. I tell you I wouldn't have the heart to cut one up to make it fit in a 121!
  2. The SW1500 is what's recommended for the MIR kit.
  3. The 121 chassis is definitely shorter than the 141/181. It's noticeable in any photos showing a 121/141 double header.
  4. Bear in mind the 121 chassis is shorter than the 141/181.
  5. Great info, Dhu Varren. Thanks.
  6. No problem. I've read you can use gloss spray varnish to seal them too.
  7. What transfer paper do you use? Does it need to be sealed after printing?
  8. For anyone interested, Lima "A" Class - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lima-class-33-Irish-HO-/291516199035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43dfb8307b
  9. This will depend on how much current your LEDs draw and how much current your decoder function outputs can handle. LEDs draw roughly 20ma each (that's a very general estimation, it varies depending on size, colour etc.) while decoder outputs will handle anything from around 100ma on the cheaper ones up to 250ma on the more expensive sound decoders. Even 3 coaches with 6 LEDs each, not to mention any directional lights in the dummy power car would quickly add up and probably overload the decoder's outputs. You also have to consider how many amps your DCC system supplies to the track. Some more basic systems only put out 1 or 2 amps and like I said I rake of lit coaches can eat into this! You could probably control 2-3 coaches comfortably with one decoder, but then you've also got wiring between the coaches which can be a pain. The ideal solution is a decoder for each coach, but this gets expensive even with function only decoders. Personally I wouldn't bother with decoders at all, I'd have LEDs powered directly from the track pickups fitted with a flicker free circuit. You could also install a small switch in the underside of the coach to turn of the lights when not in use.
  10. Wow! What a transformation! Looks great, can't wait to see more progress.....
  11. He sells direct so just contact him on his website. Prices including shipping should be there.
  12. Zimo decoders can use both 4ohm or 8ohm speakers.
  13. That's grand, Garfield. Like I said I wasn't sure!
  14. No problem, Mark. But those pics from Scahalane are better images than the one I remember from the book!
  15. I believe there's a picture of the unloading station in the book "From CIE to IR", I'll check when I get home. Is it ok to reproduce photos from books on the forum?
  16. Sewing machine oil is a good substitute for the name brand lubricants. Use light oil on the motor bearings (important but often overlooked, just needs the tiniest amount) and on the worm gear bearings. Some light grease is best on the worm gear itself and the drive wheel gearing.
  17. This has me considering replacing all the other speakers with the sugarcube ones. They seem to sound the best of what I've tried so far and since they're suitable for N scale you'll never have an issue with installation space. I'm also going to try wiring a couple of these speakers together in the larger locos, such as a 201 and see how it sounds.
  18. I know what you mean, I'd like to show the locos running round the layout but you'd never get a decent comparison if they were moving!
  19. Cheers, Weshty. I was thinking that myself, but I've been listening to so many different speakers it's getting to the stage I can't tell the difference anymore! Nice to get some opinions.
  20. As I mentioned I bought a couple of "sugarcube" speakers and I installed one into B141 to see what they're like. Here's how the speaker arrived. As you can see it comes in 2 parts, the speaker itself and the plastic baffle which fits to the back of it. The baffle MUST be attached, I tired it at first without it and the sound was dreadful! The baffle was attached with a tiny amount of CA glue and care has to be taken to get a good seal. The wires are then soldered tot the 2 connections on the back. When assembled the overall dimensions are 15x11x11mm and is an easy fit inside the body of B141. I simply fixed it to back of the cab detail with some mastic tape. So here's a video. B141 is fitted with the sugarcube speaker, while B165 has the Maplins speaker which I reinstalled by fixing it to the roof of the loco rather than using the speaker cradle as Anto suggested. I then sealed around the edges of the speaker with mastic tape to make it as airtight as possible. Ypu can compare with the first video to see if you notice any improvement. Once again the soundfile and volume settings are the same for both speakers (ignore the different horn sounds!). But I have to say I'm impressed with the sound from the sugarcube speaker, it definitely has more low end than the other speakers. Oh, and just for Noel there's a shot at the end of the video showing the brake squeal function on the Loksound decoders!
  21. Yeah dead right. I glued some old nuts and bolts into mine.
  22. Had the same trouble with mine and it appears to be the crappy wheels that Dapol supply with the kits. I switched mine for Hornby wheels and the problems disappeared.
  23. Patience! When my old man worked as a tailor and a customer ordered a new suit and wanted it in a hurry he woul say to them - "Quality - Quick - Cheap. Pick two!"
  24. Glad you found the source of the trouble! The leds are mounted on a flat circuit board that fits underneath the cab, it may be stuck to the bottom of the cab detail in those photos. If you can't see where to solder the wire you may have to remove the other cab and check the wiring on the opposite end's light board. Anyway, it's a simple enough fix.
  25. Wonderful work, sir!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use