Flying Scotsman 4472

I'm glad you guys like the suggestion of improving the look of the 141/181 and I hope some of you give it a go

Well spotted mate. I had them on other parts of the layout and Wrenn noticed last Saturday I hadn't fitted any over the bridge. Yes the are just glued in for now but I must get talking to the likes of Rich to see if he can come up with a more realistic solution instead of just glueing them onto the sleepers. Maybe if he reads this he could start a thread on the subject. Anyone any photos of the real thing.

I don't think there is any difference other than the size of the IR logo on the loco

I got 187 of Dave Bracken last Saturday. But one of my pet hates with the MM 141/181 is that when the coupler is fitted you have a big gaping hole on the front of the loco for the coupler to attach to the bogie. The other problem when double heading using the Kadee's some times the 2nd loco would cause the front one to derail on some points due to the bogies pushing together. So I decided to try and over come these problems and improve the look of the loco by not having that big hole in the front. I have had great success with the MM201 using the same method I am going to show you. First of all remove the bogie side frames from the loco. Then with a sharp scalpel cut away the existing coupling box You then need to glue in the front cover panel. I used plastic weld to do this and I also ran a beed of superglue around the back of the panel as this panel is what will take all the weight of your train. I also filled in around the panel and sanded it down Using a piece of Evergreen Box section I cut it to the exact length of my Kadee coupler. This will also be the same for the standard coupler that comes with the loco. The inside of the box section is 4mm x 2mm Next I used my Kadee height gauge I marked where I wanted to locate my coupler box and then I drilled and cut out the hole for the new coupler box Don't forget to glue in the coupler box securely as this needs to take a lot of pressure when removing and fitting the coupler I then repainted the new front valance and fitted my coupler. The great thing about this system is that you can fit all the detailing hoses airlines etc to the front of you loco and your coupler still works. This is the first 141/181 I've done and I have ran 187 with every thing from MIR wagons to Cravens and I've had no problems at all Here is 187 pulling a rake of MIR container wagons. If you want to see more pictures of her weathered up go to my work bench by clicking the link below http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/37-Anthony-s-Workbench/page15

I don't get much time to work on my own rolling stock. But when I got 187 of Dave Bracken last Saturday I decided to try to over come a few problems with the looks of the loco Click here for link http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/527-Improving-the-looks-for-MM-141-181?p=6728#post6728 Anyway here she is in all her glory Weathered of course Before After

Are you saying Rich that Eamonn's new nickname is Dr WHO

Well done mate that's looks superb your shed and layout are stunning. Looking forward to more update pictures.

Did you not have enough pints Friday night the state of you sitting in my kitchen on Saturday morning should have taught you a lesson

Yes mate got it I've been out all day so will get a look soon. Thanks for that

Some great pictures there Rich thanks for sharing

Rich would you have a picture like the one above but with flat bottom rail

Hit the rewind button

Time to sell up Bro and buy a bigger one Also welcome to the site Purple

I would go with the soldering iron as it would be very easy to make a mistake and warp the brass with the gas torch. Once you get the experience you can upgrade

They also do a great free on line monthly magazine

And another

I would agree with you there Stephen they just seem to be on a different level compared to everyone else

Your model train as we all know is like the real thing in miniature. When you attach the kadee coupling to the bogies the coaches bogies are been pulled in opposite directions buy the weight of the train. This can lead to derailments and bad running when using kadees. When you fit them to the body this acts like the real train and the pulling forces are absorbed by the body/chassis this leaves your bogies free to just do their job. I would stay well clear of kadee #5 for coaches as they are far to short try something like a #146

Looking good mate I would suggest using the Kadee's with the draft gear box on coaches/wagons or anything fitted with bogies and mounting the Kadee gear box to the chassis and not the bogie

Thanks Mate

Ok lads lets please stay on topic. Thank You