Paddy Mac Namara

cheers tony, any photo on forum of the full platform. its 50 mm wide?

Tony, hi there, i like the look of that platform kit, is it OO do you know wills part number? cheers paddy mac

God bless your eyesight achill ... There were indeed wine bottles in there was trying a spot of home brewing..... Can't see them on the thread tho...?

Thanks. It's coming along....

Video showing operation of isolated sections as mentioned above.

So my next challenge is to sort out the electrics for the two diamond crossings. In the track diagram below, the yellow track is mainline, down, the dark blue is mainline up, and the light blue is commuter line, up or down. So the objective is to have yellow track having right of way all the time. I have whole sections of the other tracks isolated either side of the junction and simply turn off the power to stop trains entering the junction when mainline train is coming. (I have something similar on the other side of layout). So this arrangement is rather cumbersome and you’d literally need eyes in the back of your head when operating three trains. I must see about posting a video of this operation. I’m working on a control circuit with sensors, something like that available from Heathcote, but without the need for an Arduino micropressor. More of that in time. Cheers, paddy mac

altho i see from your location ur in Dublin 5 ??? not too far from me i work in bolton street

thanks...i'm in sallins near naas

still looking for some track want to make a test track for some electronic i'm doing at the moment. thanks paddy mac

And here are photos of track across the gap complete. Very fiddly but happy with the end result. As you can see i have wired across the gap for continuity and am in the process of wiring a plug and socket 6 way connector.

sorry photos arent great they looked better on the phone. So what lessons learned from trial run. countersink holes for screws a bit cos mdf rises up a bit when you screw into it.Oh yeah my soldering iron had a rather sharp tip and never really transfered heat to rail that well...so i just cut the tip off to make it more blunt and now i find it easy to solder to rail. and copper clad needs sanding before you try to solder to it. i had considered sticking the copper clad down with glue but screws are better if adjustment required. also one screw on copper clad is easier than 2 and also allows for adjustment (rotation if) needed later. solder is surprisingly strong strong for small joins. more pics to follow of finished job

Some progress over the winter. so i needed to tackle the lifting flap and cutting track etc so i did a trial with some spare track. see photos below

thanks and sorry for delay in replying....i know there is some way to set up so that i get an email to tell me if someone has replied to my post, but i dont know how. might be able to make it up on the monday, sure if i do i do thanks.

looking for some old/scrap oo straight track for cutting, doing a trial run across a gap in the baseboard. cheers paddy

cheers derry

thanks

A bit of progress. I’ve laid down the track according to plan to see how it all works, check electrics and get an idea of any problems. One thing was, I needed a lot more track than my existing stocks, hardly surprising says you. Anyhow some mistakes made getting flexible rather than long straights….but Marks were very good and exchanged no problem. I must say really enjoyed running trains around the track, I’ve never had a complete circuit of this length before. The diamond crossings are an obvious collision hazard and I’m investigating solutions. Heathcote do a module for this and at £15 it’s not too bad, although with a bit of help from my electronics consultant (cheers martin) I may do one myself……thing is I could be faffing around with a soldering iron and breadboard for several hours and only save myself a few €. Any ideas on this are welcome. So the lifting flap and cutting the rails is a big job, I can’t keep crawling under. For the moment its ok. Next I’m going to lift all the track in stages and paint it and then re-lay it. I will not be ballasting but am looking around for suitable colour to paint on the board under the track to have some cosmetic ballast tone. I don’t really expect to get much done over the summer, with gardening and golf, and I enjoy modelling in the winter months.

I like it billy, really 6/7 years! you do need to get a move on, but hey "festina lente". i'm more of a build it quick'ish, get bored and want to do a new layout, have you a track plan that you can post, just to see the overall picture. cheers paddy mac ps whats with the dancing bananas?

thanks dave

thanks dave

thanks j i suppose i'm looking for strong more than invisible....but is this asking too much..maybe an allowance for some adjustment if tracks get mis-aligned in the future

dave, i'm not sure how this works, how will you know i've re-activated the thread. but here's my question, your solder to screws looks simple and effective, but what about the more usual solder rail to copper clad board i see in the modelling press...is either method as effective, the screws i presume should be brass thanks paddy

no idea what thread its on. anyway some photos of current project.

hi derry ? only just started having a good look around the forum, love the layout. how did you make your platforms? i noticed you left painting of the track till the end, so how did you do that, air brush or just brush and what colour would you reccommend? cheers paddy mac

it was scratchbuilt, a bit faded now. my sallins layout was on the old forum