Northroader Posted September 15 Posted September 15 Real craftsman works there, doing the outside frames, cranks, and so on, that’s a great achievement, and the finish demands a lot of subtleness, and looks great. 1 Quote
David Holman Posted September 16 Author Posted September 16 Thanks folks - as you can see, it has been a challenge, making a lot of it up as I go along, especially that chassis! The lack of components to create a 7mm scale, 21mm gauge, outside framed chassis proved the major stumbling block - that and a similar lack of info on outside framed chassis generally in my preferred scale. And I did look, honest! Continue to find it remarkable what is out there though, like the Worsley etches for the body while special mention to Roger Cromblehome for sending me his CAD drawing of the chassis, without which am not sure I'd have even considered the project. Hopefully, I now know enough to tackle the Kerr Stuart 4-6-2T, which is the only other Swilly loco that will fit on my turntable. Got an outline drawing and a good selection of photos, but if anyone knows of anything suitable, by all means let me know! 4 Quote
David Holman Posted September 23 Author Posted September 23 As an alternative to battling the Barclay, decided it was time to address the new uncoupling system. Kaydees and rare earth magnets have worked quite well, but Swilly and Donegal stock couplings sit higher and Kaydee No 5s are no good. Their S scale version would probably work, but needing to be imported, the cost looked prohibitive. Hence am trying tension locks and will adapt them both to work with Dingham electro magnets and look more like narrow gauge 'chopper' couplings - more of the latter later. First job, having bought the magnets from the Gauge 0 Guild stores and some push to make switches from my local model shop, was to decide where everything would go & how to put it all together. Considered trying to fit the switches into the existing mimic panel, but space is already tight, so cut out space for a second panel next to it. Then had to decide where to site the magnets, which are pretty much where the permanent ones were. Wiring it all up was, for once, fairly painless - just needed to add a 15v socket for the magnet power and a separate set of wires, plus a pair of 9 pin computer plugs. However, a small part of the process involved reversing a Tortoise point motor to make room for the magnet just outside the train shed. Simple enough? You'd think so, but it became a real case of the south end of a north facing horse. Turning the motor through 180 degrees sounds straightforward, but it reverses the terminals and combined with it being half a crossover and both motors operated from the same switch, it really was an accident waiting to happen. Three days of trial an error later, I finally discovered this evening that the issue was not the motor terminals, but the double pole-double throw switch on the panel that needed reversing... One of these days I'm going to convert to battery power! Photos show the undersides of the boards, with a ridiculous number of wires beneath. I put tag strips between switches, plugs and fittings, keeping a careful records of where each wire connects to/from. Hence it doesn't matter what colour wires are used - you just look up where they start and finish. The clothes peg holds a cable connector The others pictures show the new panel and some of the magnets. Needless to say, the latter still need to be cut down to sleeper height. 5 Quote
David Holman Posted September 29 Author Posted September 29 Couplings While it would have been nice to have authentic looking 'Zamzoodle' chopper couplings, for one thing they are quite expensive and for another seem to have been unavailable for quite a while. However, when you look at photos and drawings of choppers,, in essence they are very similar to slimline tension locks, which are readily available and much cheaper. Indeed, with friends at the Chatham Club often converting stock to Kadees, there is a plentiful free supply. The main differences are the shape of the hook and the large buffing plate - in lieu of ordinary buffers. The latter is fairly easy to resolve: a circle or rounded square of brass/plasticard suffices and the size seems to vary. Hooks seem to vary too, but all have a forward/upper extension, presumably to help the crew lift it when uncoupling. This works in my favour, because to make tension locks work with an electromagnet, I am fixing a piece of iron wire [paperclip] to the dropper on the tension lock, which extends back under the wagon. When the magnet is activated, it pulls this wire downwards, lifting the hook & hence uncoupling takes place. However, when the magnet is deactivated, this wire tends to leave the hook in the upper position, but by adding a piece of brass strip to the end of the hook [shaped to look like the prototype], balance is restored and the hook drops down again. The other thing that is needed, is a U shaped piece of wire to go over the iron wire, to keep it parallel to the rails stop it going too far and fouling the track. Nickel silver or brass is best, for obvious reasons. So far, have fitted a hooked tension lock to Railcar No10, with just loops on the trailer. It is intended these two will only work as a pair, so when the railcar is turned, there will always be a hook and loop together. Interestingly, photos often show this on the prototypes. In my case, the use of a turntable for locos and a turntable fiddle yard rather complicates matters, but have worked out that by using an 'exchange' wagon, with hooks at both ends, it is possible to remarshall a mixed or goods train without two hooks getting in each others' way. Early days, with some refining still required [mostly around the shape of the hook], but the railcar-trailer works fine, so hopefully no reason for the other stock to work as well. 9 Quote
Galteemore Posted September 30 Posted September 30 What a delightfully elegant solution. Which would - mind cogs turning furiously - work just as well in 5.5mm scale where RTR 00 chassis are often used ….. Quote
gibbo675 Posted September 30 Posted September 30 Hi David, Your idea with the couplings is excellent however may I suggest a slightly different basis for the couplings that may be adapted in a similar way. These are Fleischmann HO gauge couplings that give a more prototypical look, not cheap but you may be able to find similar for a better price: https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/fleischmann-6527-spare-coupling-with-rivet-and-slot-fitting.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmOm3BhC8ARIsAOSbapU85nypr0KYajguwPUoVMeM9jdm5DKb8-Z5qzl1uvGA6YoDNxnFo-YaAp95EALw_wcB Gibbo. 2 minutes ago, gibbo675 said: Hi David, Your idea with the couplings is excellent however may I suggest a slightly different basis for the couplings that may be adapted in a similar way. These are Fleischmann HO gauge couplings that give a more prototypical look, not cheap but you may be able to find similar for a better price: https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/fleischmann-6527-spare-coupling-with-rivet-and-slot-fitting.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmOm3BhC8ARIsAOSbapU85nypr0KYajguwPUoVMeM9jdm5DKb8-Z5qzl1uvGA6YoDNxnFo-YaAp95EALw_wcB Gibbo. Here is an ebay listing for fifty, including postage it may be worth a punt: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395509034378?_skw=Fleischmann+Ho+Couplings&epid=2255554900&itmmeta=01J91681Y5CA1GDTYY2JK4RVWB&hash=item5c162ced8a:g:~IkAAOSwS9Rma-lo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlAMHzk%2Fr6ofwNBEPaVe70Uk0BhJICuxyHneAKfg3Zj5M40mtX4ZTKf5bbinHvhjKc8wBcjl4TY4WjJ3%2BC79uXH%2BnPy%2BcoDY2kkfw36t6D14S8fZHFnjSiNp6086Lbccn0U9dC0tA%2B7VWTGNF6kP6FQwNUqQJCrvsmFZi54rBr7nS73%2FxmO9x%2BzRNGLGHuVAhampYShCVQlmgM0s8BQevpmnb5yqYDQREc0pgv8VLNCdQEEYEQMMZz1y0WLJip5RmE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5KfoKbIZA Gibbo. 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 5 Author Posted October 5 As a sojourn from recent activities, the workbench has become cluttered with large buildings for the Chatham Club layout. Called 'North Circular', it depicts a North London avoiding line, following the approximate route of the road of the same name. A double track, 0 Gauge oval, there are no points [apart from the storage sidings], but a lot of scenic features, designed to act as a backdrop to passing trains around its 10m x 4m footprint. The layout is due to appear at next year's Chatham Show in July, so I've taken it upon myself to create a section with a selection of warehouses and factories, plus a small canal basin. Inspiration comes from the Metcalfe card kitts, loosely scaled up to 7mm. The whole layout is very much built 'to a standard', making use of brick and tile paper, plus commercial window frames. I use 5mm foam board for the basic structure, varying the height of each storey from 8 to 10 feet. The overall shape of sides and ends are drawn and cut out out, then the pieces temporarily joined with masking tape, to check how each one fits on the layout. Once satisfied with this, the pieces come apart for window and door openings to be cut, followed by reassembly using triangles of thick card to brace the internal corners. Brick paper [downloaded from the web and printed at home] is then stuck to the foam board with pva. I cover over the window openings and then cut in afterwards, folding the paper inside. Things like brick lintels and stone window ledges, along with large corner stones help relieve the otherwise plainness of the model. Window frames are die cut ones from 'Purple Bob'. At around 50p each, they are less than a third the price of York Modelmaking ones and come pre-coloured too. The roof is made from mounting board, covered with slate paper [same as the bricks]. Gutters and soffit boards are a single piece of 2mm plastic sheet with one edge rounded off with a file, while drainpipes are 2.5mm square section plastic rod. Below is a larger warehouse, awaiting brick paper, windows and so on. Must admit, I haven't spent hours and hours on these models, but as said earlier, they are built to the same standards we've used on the rest of the layout, so hopefully everything should blend in well together. Also shows, to new/inexperienced members that with a little effort, it is easy to produce you own models. Cheaper too. Am tempted to suggest we add a third conductor rail, as it ought to be possible to use it to enable my broad gauge stock to stretch it legs. One day maybe! 9 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 23 Author Posted October 23 A few pictures taken down the Club last night, showing how the warehouses are coming together. The biggest was certainly a trial of endurance, because although the basic structure is simple, there are 44 windows, each requiring a hole to be cut out, then a sill, lintel, frame and glazing, along with wrapping the brick paper around the inner walls. Literally hundreds of separate pieces and actions. The other warehouses are on a smaller scale, while there is also a 'north light' small factory. As you can see, the buildings are either side of the double track railway, with a small section of canal running through the scene too. Another possible project emerged last night too, with the opportunity to acquire a 7mm scale Ixion Hudswell Clarke contractors 0-6-0T. Have long thought one might make a worthy conversion to 5'3 gauge and it is certainly a very nice model - never mind RTR steam locos for the Irish scene being as rare as unicorn droppings. As you can see, there are no splashers to worry about, so it is mostly a case of can the wheels be moved out from 28mm back to back to 34mm? The answer to that is not initially, but the axles are 1/8th inch, so it should be possible to fit new, longer ones. An alternative idea is I have a set of Slater's Manning Wardle style wheels of the same diameter, which also use the same diameter axles. So, certainly a possibility, but what about prototype fidelity? Well, the Green Book has two options, namely Classes 299 and 300 [see below]. Both of these were built by Hunslet, but for 299 especially, the similarities are significant, though it does lack a clear coal bunker. Little locos like these were used by contractors when lines were first built and a few actually stayed on to work the smaller lines afterwards. Some actually got taken on by the mainline company and in the case of 299, even got an official number, while others [in best Sligo Leitrim fashion] just had a name. Ideally, I suppose, livery ought to be lined back [maybe with WL&W style lining], but for my early 1900s period on Northport Quay maybe the contractors red livery could yet prevail for a couple of years? Thoughts welcome! 10 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 27 Author Posted October 27 The last two buildings for the Club layout are now largely done, so will post some pictures later of them all in situ. Looking at my stock prior to Tolworth, have decided to pass on the Ixion Hudswell Clarke. Although a very nice model, needs eventually trumped wants because I already have seven locos for my 1900s period and only five tracks in the fiddle yard! For the uninitiated, shown below are WL&W 0-6-0 Shannon, MGW 4-4-0 Wolf Dog and E class 0-6-0T, GS&W 2-4-2T and 101 0-6-0, plus a Hunslet 0-4-2T and Sligo Small Tank. However, the ultimate deal breaker was the main gear on the middle axle, as [being nylon] I am far from confident that I could remove it without damage. Also realised that I do already have a little contractor's loco sitting on the shelf. My very first 0 gauge loco, it was made from an MTK kit [I think] about 30 years ago and has [sadly] mainly been used to practice painting and lining since then. One day, I must build a new chassis for it and give it a good makeover too. 12 Quote
Galteemore Posted October 27 Posted October 27 Interesting David, and I do like that MTK loco. I have had a long look at making a Slaters MW 0-4-0T into the SLNC ‘Faugh a Ballagh’ but decided that it was far too much trouble! 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 27 Author Posted October 27 Built that Slater's kit back at the end of the last century (!) and very nice it was too, but that was narrow gauge, of course and being such a tiny engine AND with outside cylinders, not sure I'd want to do one in broad gauge. Their MW 0-6-0T was equally nice and being inside cylinders would be a much more tempting proposition, assuming prototype fidelity of course... 1 Quote
David Holman Posted November 3 Author Posted November 3 Schull and Skibberish... A while ago, I sent off for one of the Alphagraphix card kit bargains - namely a complete Schull and Skibbereen train. Loco and three coaches for just four quid. I kid you not, a whole train, in 7mm scale at that. Ok, so it is just four sheets of printed A4 card, but as a starting point, these kits have much to commend them. Why Schull and Skibbereen you ask? Well, having sold my two Clogher Valley bogie coaches, it occurred to me that I could create a S&S train to go with my CVR 0-4-2Ts, as part of my Donegal/Swilly re-imagining for Finotnagh. Recently came up with a new name for it too - Swilybegs. Killybegs is of course one of the Donegal branches, so a version on Lough Swilly has, for me, a nice ring to it. As for a Schull tram, as mentioned a while ago, a further, independent, branch north from the shores of Lough Swilly to Milford, Carraigart and Downies could make sense - especially if we assume the Potato Famine was not as severe and likewise the subsequent depopulation. Works for me, anyway. For a change, decided to have a go at one of the coaches this week. Just plastic sheet and strip for the body, sitting on a Parkside 4mm wagon chassis. As a relief from chasing prototype fidelity, it can be quite enjoyable to do a bit of free lancing. One reason is that you can use formerly unwanted items like door handles from the scrap box. Another is not worrying too much over perfect dimensions. The photos show the first coach with a CVR loco in what could well be the tramway platform on a revamped Fintonagh/Swillybegs. 8 1 Quote
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