Noel Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 How in the name of all that is good about WD40 does one get the blasted body shell off a 141/181? I am trying to fit a 21pin decoder. I have done the following as per recommendations: Removed the side rails Removed the end cab Gently and not so gently squeezed the body sides but it seems almost glued on! I afraid of damaging the model if I use any more force. Are the pressure lugs clipped into the under frame, OR inside onto the metal weight? HELP! Some material I have read and studied, but no joy, it is stuck fast. It's a brand new MM 141 Black preserved B141. Mag piece: http://www.murphymodels.com/files/Class_141_Sound_DCC_MR130_058-061.pdf How to on MRF: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17970 Service sheet: http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/mm_141_181.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 aclass007 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) The lugs are clipped to the underframe. If you turn the bogie a little you'll see them from underneath. Your loco, having a black body makes them more difficult to see, as they are the same colour as the body. The orange ones can be seen much easier. Anyway, prising them from underneath with a small screwdriver or something should release them. Taking off the plastic bogie frame will give you more room if you need it..... Edited September 7, 2014 by aclass007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Noel Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 The lugs are clipped to the underframe. If you turn the bogie a little you'll see them from underneath. Your loco, having a black body makes them more difficult to see, as they are the same colour as the body. The orange ones can be seen much easier. Anyway, prising them from underneath with a small screwdriver or something should release them. Taking off the plastic bogie frame will give you more room if you need it..... Thanks used a block hammer, crowbar and stick of dynamite. Kidd'n. Got it off with some more force. I need a microscope to get the railings back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 aclass007 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Thanks used a block hammer, crowbar and stick of dynamite. Kidd'n. Got it off with some more force. I need a microscope to get the railings back on. Glad you got sorted... Don't worry, we were all in the same position with the 141 bodies...especially our first one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 irishthump Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I need a microscope to get the railings back on. Yep, they're a b**ger and no mistake! Personally I leave the railings on and just release the tabs from underneath as aclass07 said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Noel Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Glad you got sorted... Don't worry, we were all in the same position with the 141 bodies...especially our first one Thanks guys. Hopefully some day I may be able to get a few more 141/181s. Yep, they're a b**ger and no mistake! Personally I leave the railings on and just release the tabs from underneath as aclass07 said. That's what I'll do next time. The handrails clip on and off ok, but the thin end that returns to the body base plate was glued on the B141 I got a few weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 heirflick Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Noel - you will notice that the cab is no longer a tight fit and there is a noticeable gap between it and the chassis but there is nothing that can be done about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Broithe Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Avoid pressing on the cab side-windows, as they can be pushed out - well, in, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 aclass007 Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Noel - you will notice that the cab is no longer a tight fit and there is a noticeable gap between it and the chassis but there is nothing that can be done about that. I wonder would gluing it down with a little copydex work? I think this is what Silverfox use to glue the body of their locos to the chassis. Anyone who has removed a Silverfox body will know that it breaks away from the chassis cleanly, with little effort, which would mean the 141 cabs should be easy enough to remove, if glued with copydex.... But, I'm only thinking out loud here! Research it further before anyone tries it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 WRENNEIRE Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 How in the name of all that is good about WD40 does one get the blasted body shell off a 141/181? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Noel Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Personally I leave the railings on and just release the tabs from underneath as aclass07 said. Thanks that worked a real treat on 182. I used wooden ice cream sticks to pressure the sides through the railings. Noel - you will notice that the cab is no longer a tight fit and there is a noticeable gap between it and the chassis but there is nothing that can be done about that. Yes I noticed that Seamus. Were the cab ends glued with some sort of flexiglue, or is there some other reason? Looking forward to putting some Belfast models sound chips in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 DiveController Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 And now you have some more 141s, so knock yourself out chipping them all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Noel Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 For the benefit of any other 141/181 body removal virgins I see there is a speaker rack in there already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 aclass007 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Don't forget to open the holes in the roof for the horns and antennas while the body is off. They are marked on the inside...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Noel Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Don't forget to open the holes in the roof for the horns and antennas while the body is off. They are marked on the inside...... Do you mean drill a hole for sound purposes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 aclass007 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Do you mean drill a hole for sound purposes? No.... there are some detailing items, such as horns and antennas that need to be fitted to the roof of the 141's. The positions where they are supposed to go are marked on the inside of the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Question
Noel
How in the name of all that is good about WD40 does one get the blasted body shell off a 141/181?
I am trying to fit a 21pin decoder. I have done the following as per recommendations:
I afraid of damaging the model if I use any more force. Are the pressure lugs clipped into the under frame, OR inside onto the metal weight?
HELP!
Some material I have read and studied, but no joy, it is stuck fast. It's a brand new MM 141 Black preserved B141.
Mag piece: http://www.murphymodels.com/files/Class_141_Sound_DCC_MR130_058-061.pdf
How to on MRF: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17970
Service sheet: http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/mm_141_181.pdf
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