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Everything posted by Noel

  1. Noel

    Kingsbridge - workbench

    Recent posts on plough vans got me thinking. As many may already know, I'm a fan of the 60/70s era and dislike all things yellow. Now I really like my rake of IRM ballasts, even if I pretend they are gypsum wagons hauling mineral freight rather than doing PW work. Hence I have no desire to have a pair of yellow plough vans . . . but there were older plough vans in much more acceptable brown or bauxite livery like the GSWR plough below, and they looked prettier. So I have decided to convert a pair of my GWR 'toad' brake vans to ex-GSWR ploughs and match them up with my rake of IRM ballasts even if not strictly prototypical, at least there won't be any yellow. They will need some modifications, add small windows, remove the full length steps, replace with steps under door, add vertical stanchion at door to roof, a plough, and respray in GSWR brown/bauxite. They will be a bit long but should pass the duck test. The alternative is to just respray a pair of BR shark vans brown, but I do like the look of GWR toads resemblance to the GSWR van. Two in bauxite would do the trick and then one day I could pretend they are hauling ballasts and another day gypsum. Will update this thread as they progress along with a few other kits and bodge jobs in the pipeline like a GSV and a luggage van.
  2. Noel

    Irish trawler dragged by sub

    The quality of journalism!!! "A nuclear-powered Royal Navy submarine has been involved in a near-miss with a ferry." So they collided (ie nearly missed is logically a hit)!!! The same error is routinely made when the media report close quarter aviation incidents.
  3. Noel

    Air brush set

    The BartSharp TC88 compressor with its 3 litre air reservoir is a quiet and reliable compressor (ie the motor is off 90%) of the time you are airbrushing. https://bartsharp.co.uk/index.php/airbrush-compressor/tc88t-airbrush-compressor.html https://bartsharp.co.uk/index.php/bartsharp-airbrush/bartsharp-airbrush-187-gravity-feed-airbrush.html
  4. Noel

    Kingsbridge - workbench

    Some progress today on the MIR Irish Cement curtain pallet wagons. Fettled body and chassis parts for snug fit. These are nice kits and require minimal tidying up (ie removal of flash, etc). White metal break bits added, then primed with Halford's ready for next phase. I hope to eventually build a rake of these with some fine results already posted on this forum. The only additions I intend to add are stuff like kadee couplings, vacuum pipes, additional weight, tail lamps, etc. I hope to build a complete rake of these over time. It is good to see MIR back with their products available via eBay seller 'sylvimcnall-0'. Ian tells me he has more products available than those listed on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sylvimcnall-0/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654 White metal break gear stuff added saves fabricating parts from plastic card. Holes drilled out for axle bearings. Undercoat primer is the usual Halfords plastic grey primer aerosol can. I keep a can in hot press so it is never cold when being applied. This inexpensive fan assisted spray booth came from BartSharp last year, had duct out velux window so avoided noxious and smelly odours in house. Primed with Halfords plastic grey primer (love this user friendly stuff) ready for next steps. Now to mix various shades of blue paint (ie one shade for body and another for the curtain sides)
  5. Noel

    Behind the scenes at IRM

    Priceless Intrigued as intended by the clever marketing what the next loco might be
  6. Anybody remember Davis Charlton Diesel model aero engines made in IOM with their compression screws, and quick start spring. Oh many memories of hurt fingers!!! Pocket money and bob-a-job money saved for many months if not years to be able to buy one of these and put it on a control line model, or 'free flight' with burning timer fuse - remember those? The noise from these DC engines was astronomical http://www.modelenginenews.org/people/dc_ltd.html http://www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=56
  7. Noel

    barrow street

    C'est Incredible. This is more like a professional model build for a movie set.
  8. Agree. Cant wait to see it painted, glazed, seating with seated pax inside. Eoin what are you planning to use for door handles and door hinges?
  9. Fabulous work. You have become a brass master Eoin and seem expertly tooled up for working with it. Those coaches are superb, trust they are routed for a good home.
  10. I got a sneak preview yesterday of WMRC 3D ground signals. WMRC member @Junctionmad (Dave) designed and printed these stunning working grounds signals. The detail is at FUD levels or better. These are 7mm scale destined for Little Siddington layout with servos driving them. As 3D continues to improve year on year it could be a game changer for the hobby. If there is no RTR available just print your own high quality kit parts assuming you or a pal can handle the CAD learning curve, which is the resistance bar. But the possibilities are limitless. Ground signals - will be hooked up to servos on Little Siddington O gauge layout. The finished material is quite strong too and takes man handling well. These took about 20 mins to print the separate parts
  11. Noel

    Greystones Model Railway Layout.

    Thanks. I thought I read somewhere that there was a company who will print back scenes from your own photos. Any ideas. I'm keen to pop over to Co Galway and take a few wide angle shots on a sunny day with the distinctive connemara countryside and all the grey stone walls.
  12. Noel

    Greystones Model Railway Layout.

    Sublime Eoin. Love it. Photo realistic. Where did you get the custom wicklow back scene from? It looks like a photo taken just SE of the Glen-o-the-downs. Perfect for Greystones
  13. @WRENNEIRE Dave Bracken may be able to help you source same. Otherwise they come up on eBay from time to time at sensible prices. I got most of my baby GMs on eBay long after they had sold out through the channel. Over time stuff always seems to turn up.
  14. On the Wheeltappers project, It doesn't completely turn it off, it just reduces it. I've superglued the blasted 'momentum' button on my NCE cabs because it ruins the accelaration/decel CVs on decoders which can really mess up some sound programmes, usually required a reset to get back to factory condition. I gave up using JMRI because its too clunky and slow, very 1990s windows/DOS like with its Java app.
  15. It seems to reduce the inertia delays in acceleration and declaration (ie motor responds more quickly to throttle changes), which helps shunting, the change of cab walkway sound sequence is skipped when change of direction is selected on cab, which is a real PITA when shunting if you have to wait for the virtual driver walk with sound footsteps from one cab to another. It sounds novel the first time you hear it but it gets really annoying when you want to quickly change direction (eg uncoupling, shunting, runarounds, etc) operating the layout. It also reduces the notching frequency suggesting a lighter load to haul. Kieth has something similar on his Zimo RealDrive 141 sound projects (ie F5=Light Engine mode, no coasting, reacts with little delay to throttle changes, etc, almost DC control response to speed inputs).
  16. Good to hear. Wheeltappers produced a modified version of their 141 LokSound project for 121. The main change is the change of direction walk sequence from cab to cab with footsteps along the walkway and cab doors opening and closing as the driver changes cab ends has been removed in addition to new wagon rail clank noises and flange squeal functions. This removes the change of direction delay when shunting. F12 is auto-uncouple function for kadee couplings that works over track magnets. F16 is a light engine mode which is also useful for shunting and marshalling wagon.
  17. Yes it will plug into the 21pin socket and work (ie drive and make noise), but the sound of the more powerful 071 EMD powered loco is very different to the smaller 141/181 locos. The only light function that will work is F0 which will turn the directional running lights and head lights on. On 071 you have separate control over the head lamps and cab lights (F4 and F8 respectively). The chips I use in my 141/181s is the same LokSound V4 chip the MM sell for the 071, but they have a different sound file project on them with the engine noses of the EMD 567 and EMD 645 used in the 141/181 locos. I use http://www.wheeltappersdccsounds.co.uk for my Irish locos (Neil ie Wiggy from RMweb).They have a good selection of demo videos on their web site. They also have Irish Steam loco sounds including the OO works J15. http://www.wheeltappersdccsounds.co.uk/page147/index.html http://www.wheeltappersdccsounds.co.uk/page78/index.html PS: You will have to fit a speaker to 141/181 locos and solder connections to the 141/181 PCB board. The MM017 locos come supplied with pre-wired speakers.
  18. Noel

    How to make your own 121 class

    A few more 3D 121 bodies on the workbench with one of the Athearn SW1500 donors. Looking forward to getting my teeth into some more of these now that I know what's involved. The Athearn is a geogeous little switcher, seems almost a shame, but the prize is more 121s with a fabulous precision running chassis under them, that's DCC ready and ready for lights.
  19. How to make your own CIE 121 class loco B121 from an Athearn SW1500 and Shapeways 3D body. I takes a bit of time and is costs about the same if not a little more than a possible future RTR loco, but at least you are guaranteed to have a 121 model that is a very smooth running loco and won't be affected if there are any future delays in the market. I am planning on doing another pair myself and one for a friend. I run the one I have below B121 on its own or in consist with an GM 141. TIP: Do as much man handling, drilling and plastic work before painting or adding any detailing such as glazing, hand rails, etc Get an Athearn SW1500 model on ebay. The later 3rdgeneration chassis which is DCC ready (8pin) quality motor drive + basic lighting board (directional head lamps) https://i.pinimg.com/originals/15/2c/b0/152cb0c2b24eb639c7a4fb34873c7bad.jpg 2. Get 3d Body shell from shapeways €65 https://www.shapeways.com/product/S3QTQFYCT/irish-railways-121-class?optionId=57420082&li=user-wishlist 3. Get 3d FUD (Frosted Ultra detail) detail parts for 121 class (Bogies, buffer beam + Buffers, Horns, Light fittings, main side grille vents, Cab Doors €15 https://www.shapeways.com/product/JW2L8UNNQ/detail-parts-for-irish-railways-121-class?optionId=57419115&li=marketplace 4. Cut roof cover from plastic styrene sheet from downloadable template 5. Remove The Athearn SW1500 Body Shell and keep for salvaging later parts like horns, rails, etc. Cut away body mounting lugs from each end of the metal chassis using carburundem cutting disc (mini drill) so that the chassis will fit length wise inside the 3d Body Shell Test fit for length to ensure ends of chassis do not snag body 5. If doing earlier CIE variants that did not have the walk way rails cut away the mounting lugs on the side where the vertical stauncauns would have been fitted 6. Make and test fit plasticard styrene chassis mounts. These will be used to friction mount and plug the Athearn metal chassis into the 3D plastic body shell. The Metal body chassis has a nice little shelf all along the sides which can be made to sit snugly between the plastic chassis mounts with just enough friction to hold the body in place at the correct height. This is also a good time to drill, cut file a suitable NEM size hole or pocket in the valance at the cab end. This can be used to hold the tongs of either a standard tension lock coupling or a kaydee NEM coupling (eg no 19). The coupling protruding through the valance can also be used indirectly as a body mounting lug that stops the body pulling up away from the chassis. Making the NEM hole is time consuming and requires precision. Start by drilling and then use suitable shaped micro files. 7a. Wash the 3D body with warm soapey water and allow to dry thouroughly before priming with Halfords get primer. The 3D FUD Detail parts will need to be cleaned with mild Isopropal Alchol to remove the 3D binding agent otherwise pulling masking tape later will pull the paint away from FUD components. Halfords plastic grey primer applied thinly at a distance in a warm dry environment best 7b. Fit detail parts before priming (horns will be removed for hand painting later). Drill out any holes in the light fittings for future micro LED lights or fibre optic cabling for LEDs located inside the bodyshell. 8. If doing CIE era Black’n’Tan variant. Airbriush white paint approx. where the white bands will exist (in preparation for reverse masking later). Salvage any parts of the SW1500 body inards that may be useful later (eg for cab interior, lights). I choose not to use the incandesant lights that come with the Athearn model to avoid heat buildup, prefer LEDs lower operating lighting temperature when in close proximity for plastic body parts (eg head lamp enclosuers). Drill out by hand any light bulb or LED aperatures that will be needed in the future rather than after painting to avoid paint damage later. 9. after priming gently rub down the 3D body sheel to smooth out the 3D finish and reduce the ‘toothpaste’ surface effect. This is not necessary for any 3D FUD detailing parts as hey are as smooth as fine scale injection moulded plastic parts. 9a. hand drill any holes that will later be need to fit any of the metal grap rails (ie to avoid drill damge after painting. 10. Mask and airbrush the model as required for the livery of your choice. My example is Black and Tan 1960s livery which did not have full length walkway hand railings. 11. Test fit body to chassis. If internal plastic body mounting spacers were neatly cut the body should friction fit nicely (later you can add internal plastic body mounts and screws). I used the Kadee coupling tongs or Tension lock coupling tongs as a means of stopping one end of the body slipping off. 12. Test run the chassis after test fitting the body (before modifiying bogies) 13. Remove Athearn SW1500 fuel tank and replace with plasticard one or modified salvage. Carefully ensure bogie clearance after the GM bogie sides have been added (especially checking the singe brake cylinders clear the fuel tank and the front of the bogies clear the ladder and valance. Check clearances by test running through points and curves. Its easier to make corrections now changes now before detailing has been added that would be vunerable to accidental hand pressure 14. Clean and Prime 3D FUD Detail bogie sides 15. Carefully File the existing plastic bogie sides flat ready to glue the 3D GM bogies sides on top of. 16. Paint, apply decals, and varnish and weather in the usual manner. Do not fit glazing until after the body has been sealed with varnish otherwise the windows will go milky and opaque. Be very careful when removing masking tape from any of the FUD components (eg forward engine grills, cab doors, etc) Reverse masking helps get the white bands level with well defined edges. 17. Form and Add grab and hail rails around cab doord, cab windws, end of bonnet walkway, face of cab. These can be later hand painted. I used a simple needle nose pliers and a tweezers to for the various metal grab rail components for strips supplied by eileens emphorium. 17b. Hand paint any wire grap rails (I used Tamiya Acrylic paints as they seemed to stick to the metal without primer quite well). 17c. Add and weather buffer beam details such as coupling hook, screw coupling, lantern tail lamp, vacuum pipes, etc 18. For DCC sound create mounting cradle for sugar cub speaker that will sit under front of bonnet using small pices of plasticard. Use an 8 pin DCC sound decoder and stick to motherboard using double sided tape to ensure no contact between decoder and any components on the locos PCB board. I used a LokSound V4 8 pin decoder programmed by Wheeltappersdccsound.co.uk with a modified 141 sound project (ie walkway dirction change removed, wheel clank, better short horn, auto uncoupling function for kadee magnets, etc). Wipers and tablet catchers were salvaged from former Bachmann loco donor bodies from past projects (e.g. Silverfox C classes). 19. Finito and enjoy. The Athearn is a super smooth chassis When adding the glazing use glue'n'glazre glue to avoid milky glue opaqueness around window edges and suggest leave one cab window open with painted grey frame edge for definition. Later you can add driver, etc. Have fun. It's not rocket science and just requires a little patience and sequencing of assembly.
  20. Noel

    Kingsbridge - workbench

    Just about to start some MIR Curtain Pallet cement wagon kits. Tidy resin bodies. These look at home when marshalled in a rake with some IRM Cement bubbles.
  21. Noel

    New Aer Lingus Livery

    The once distinctive green'n'blue toothpaste tube won't stand out on airport aprons as much anymore nor the nose at gates which is what the public see most of the time from inside airport terminals. Anybody remember the old striped green tail livery? I think there is one aircraft currently painted in the iconic 1960s livery. It's great to see WW an Irish Pilot turned businessman head IAG one of the world's largest airline groups.
  22. Noel

    New Aer Lingus Livery

    Yes I remember when Aer Lingus were near retiring the 747 fleet in the late 80s and early 90s, two of those ended up with all white fuselages so when wet leased to other airlines out of season, they could quickly and cheaply apply their own logo above the windows. IMHO it is a big mistake, BA tried something similar in the late 1980s when Maggie Thacther at the opening shouted on camera how bad they looked and had lost the famous BA identity, and on camera she took handkerchiefs out of her hand bag and covered the offending colour scheme on models at the launch. I suspect this livery will be short lived. Aer Lingus brand has been one of iconic schemes of the last century and stand out a mile at crowded international airports, and instantly recognisable in the air at low level. Big mistake IMHO but they will discover that themselves as did BA. It should save a bundle on maintenance costs.
  23. Noel

    New Aer Lingus Livery

    Agree, its pretty awful. Some people are just born with a natural talent for branding and marketing, others are not. Similarly unjoined up thinking to the uncreative process that came up with the disastrous original 201 class IE orange, black, yellow livery. At least the Rotem yo-yos have a nice crisp, noticeable and striking livery. I'd guess the new aircraft livery is more a cost saving exercise for savings on aircraft maintenance and purchase price. Every time a panel or window is replaced with the current livery requires painting, all white makes this quicker and simpler. Pre-painted panels can be afixed. Costs cost, costs, but at the cost of a bland unmemorable livery from a marketing perspective.
  24. Flintstones to 21st century. We had endured Flintstone era 3mb DSL broadband for years but we finally managed to upgrade to EIR 1tb eFiber. Happy days. The main speed benefit was for cloud backups of our Macs and upload speeds (ie for DSLR photos and video, etc), which were so slow with DSL we just never bothered before as it was unusable for such purpose. Also no more family netflix congestion. Before the upgrade we only had 384k upload, now its 200mb up.
  25. Noel

    Flintstones to Fiber broadband

    No very true TG, but uploading photos, videos and cloud backup now all become easy and possible, it was torture beforehand. As I said the benefit of such infrastructure may not become fully apparent for another decade. To be honest for most family households 20-30mb download and 6mb upload would suffice (ie kids on Netflix, youtube, BBC iPlayer, other TV companies media players, etc, mum&dad email and web browsing.

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