murphaph

Is the fair still due to take place as of now? I understand the situation is fluid but given current restrictions will it be taking place is what I mean.

I'd love to see more of these. Great stuff. It would be nice if you could use a mic or something to capture your speech a bit louder over the loco.

Finished at £82! eBay is mad.

Were these uniload containers for domestic use only? Any examples of customers?

I'd say PM is well annoyed with the speaker manufacturer. That's really bad luck.

What decoder is fitted Thom? Is it the same decoder you're trying in both?

I would be amazed if the motors at least were custom made for MM and not an off the shelf item used in other models, no? Body parts are the real problem I would have thought, but with 3D printing improving all the time there is surely a solution there for the future. Instead of trying to best guess the lifetime spare parts requirements for a product before the production run a manufacturer could in theory make many of them to order when a customer request comes in. They have the CAD files. The replacement parts wouldn't be free or cost pennies as setting up a 3D printer is going to require some effort but they would be available indefinitely at least. I bet that in the future you'll have 3D printing as a service where little human intervention is required. That's what it's now like with PCBs. You send the file and on their end it's all automated, spitting out the finished packaged and labelled PCBs at the end. The cost of getting custom PCBs made is a fraction of what it was in the past. I'd say 3D printing may go the same way in time.

So this train always followed the Dublin train it was connecting with as far as Claremorris? Did it follow or lead the Westport train to Manulla Jct?

Did the Ballina branch train sit in Claremorris between duties on the branch or did it sit in Ballina or Manulla Jct?

It's not layout, rather a "test-bed" for different technologies I am evaluating before I some day start my proper layout. The oval is a simple sheet of framed chipboard, attached at a hinge point to the wall and also attached with two chains that bear the load when the oval is folded down. I don't really need this space saving design here but this oval was put together almost ten years ago now and we lived in a smaller place back then. I've recently remounted it here in the basement room where the future layout will go and fitted or refitted the following to the underside: -Raspberry pi model A running Rocrail server (bottom right) -openDCC kit built DCC controller. -openDCC kit built DCC booster (directly under controller) -two cheapo point motors at the extreme left and right ends -openDCC based point motor controller (basically homemade using openDCC processor from their solenoid motor controller project). Bottom centre. -s88 bus block occupancy detector. 8 inputs available. Current based detection. Centre left. -s88 bus board for reading optical sensors in and reporting back to controller. 16 inputs available (12 in use). Centre right. The yellow patch cables carry the s88 bus (it's just a long bit shift register) signals back to the controller. The controller simply routes those back to Rocrail so it can keep a track of loco progress. The current sensing is used to alert Rocrail that a loco has entered a block. Rocrail then starts to decelerate the loco if the loco needs to stop in that block. The loco will then trigger the optical sensor near the end of the block (I have no signals but the signal post would basically be just after the optical sensor) and Rocrail commands the loco to stop. I had much of the hardware lying around and wanted to try Rocrail. I will not be using any of this hardware except the raspberry pi (and that may be a bit weak too as it's single core) in my big layout. It has too many limitations for what I want to achieve but it was useful as a learning experience. https://youtu.be/crxxs8xIPOk

It should do yes. You need a decoder with an aux 5 output for the above circuit to work. Aux 5 is the first unused aux on the 201 so I used that. The 6 function decoders have aux 1 to aux 6, with aux 3,4,5,6 being TTL as long as they are nmra spec compliant.

Thx Noel, Yeah I have built a couple of kits from openDCC (kind of the German MERG), DCC central station, booster, an occupancy detector based on current and some homemade feeback boards and sensors (s88 bus) over the years. I've recently put together a test oval so I can get familiar with RocRail as the control software using current sensing to detect when the train enters the block and photosensors between the rails to detect when the loco is at the stop point. Even on my little test oval with passing loop it's fascinating to watch the computer randomly route a pair of locos around. I can say I've learned a bit, though none of the hardware will not be used in my "big layout". I have already settled on hardware implementing the BiDiB protocol, which has good support here in Germany. Kits are available which pushes the cost down when you need a lot of inputs.

It has been an extraordinary year for us all so I doubt anyone is going to judge you guys too harshly for a delay. As others have said, far better to deliver a top class product later than a substandard, or perhaps "not up to IRM's usual standards" is better, model now.

Problem: Rear red marker lights on the 201 are permanently illuminated with the front marker lights unless the manual switch under the loco is operated. This kind of defeats the purpose of DCC etc. It would be nice to be able to remotely disable the red marker lights, while leaving the front white ones on. It looks unprototypical in some circumstances to have the marker lights on. (my) Solution: desolder the wires leading to the current switch and slot in a relay instead of the switch and trigger the relay using one of the remaining free aux outputs on your decoder (in my case I used aux 5), if you have any. Hint: a Lokpilot v4 that many units will have fitted does not have any spare aux outputs to do this. I have fitted a Lokpilot/Loksound v5 for this, but any standards compliant decoder with an aux 5 output should do. (kind of ) tricky bit: The NMRA spec calls for the aux 5 and above outputs on the 21MTC connector fitted decoders to output at TTL (transistor-transistor logic level, a kind of low power used for microelectronics and not strong enough to switch anything) so we need to take this TTL voltage and amplify it using a small signal transistor such as a BC107 or (as I used) a BC549. The amplified signal is then used to drive the coil of a sub miniature relay (I chose the omron G5V 12V, but any 12V relay that fits should be ok) where the normally closed output of the relay is connected to the rear marker lights + terminal on the 201 PCB, while the common of the relay is connected to the decoder + (again, K1 on the 201 PCB). The Aux 5 terminal on the 201's PCB does not go anywhere so you have to solder your wire directly to the pad of the 21MTC connector (please don't start soldering stuff to the decoder even if it appears easier, we want to modify the loco itself, so decoders can still be changed in and out without de-soldering stuff) Other bits: You need to fit a resistor between the aux 5 output on the 201 PCB and the base of the transistor (marked b in circuit diagram attached). The transistor collector connects to the other side of the relay coil and the emitter of the transistor connects to the decoder - (minus). I used the RHS of the resistor marked R5 on the 201 PCB rather than solder to the MTC21 connector, though you can do that too of course, just be sure to use decoder minus and not track minus or something. After desoldering the wires to the switch I black tacked the relay on it's head beside the switch. I then superglued the BC549 also upside down to the side of the relay. This is then easy to solder everything to. A so called flyback or clamp diode should be fitted across the coils of the relay even though ESU never mentions this in their own documentation about fitting a relay. This is purely there to suppress any induced voltage spikes during switching but should not be omitted as some decoders will be damaged over time if no suppression is included here. Note the flyback diod has the negative end connected to the decoder +. This is not an error, it's how it works. If this is reversed it will provide no protection. This all sounds more complicated than it is probably. The circuit diagram should clear it up. I've included a couple of pics too. The colours of the wires in the diagram don't always match the actual colours I used I'm afraid. The white wire I used is coming from aux 5 on the 21MTC connector via a resistor that is difficult to see because it is enclosed in heat shrink where it's soldered to the base of the transistor. Don't forget to use heat shrink or otherwise adequately insulate your wiring, especially at the transistor if you choose to do it my way. YOu could use a small piece of veroboard but space is limited in the loco so Iike my way with almost everything stuck directly to the upside down relay. You then need to map some free function key to aux 5. Briefly the circuit works by using the transistor as a switch. When the base-emitter junction is saturated, the resistance between the collector and emitter falls to almost zero, allowing current to flow from the decoder + through the relay coil to decoder -, this switching the relay. When the relay is not energised, the red marker lights + has a path to the decoder + so its circuit is complete and the red lights will be on if the marker lights are on. When the relay is de-energised the path is interrupted (you can see nothing is connected to relay pin 10) and so the red lights cannot illuminate, just like with the manual switch, except it's controlled remotely now. I've left the old switch in there as I can use that to isolate a stay alive capacitor (during programming) later. Any questions, feel free to ask. Any suggested improvements are also welcome. I know a FET would probably be a better job instead of the NPN transistor but I had them in my bits box. No warranty, modify your loco at your own risk, incorrect wiring can fry your stuff etc.

I don't have the loco yet. What effect, if any, do those switches have?

The traction motors become generators (thus helping to slow the loco) and feed current either back to the ohle or a battery (then called regenerative braking) or burnt off as heat in a resistor grid in the roof, as is the case with most US diesel electrics.

The 121s didn't have dynamic brakes, right? I don't think anything Irish except the 201s had any form of dynamic brakes.

Yeah the first thing you notice is the sheer weight of the box!

I Just watched Ernie's fantastic flickr videos of shunting keg wagons in Claremorris with what appears to be the Ballina branch train. Was this an unusual occurrence?

Mine arrived today too and I was really pleased to see no prices on the outside No major surprises as I already have other P42 items but still lovely to open them up and see the fine detail and feel the weight of these wagons. Looking forward to many more years of IRM triumphs!

Thx. Bit new for me but lovely models.

Indeed but it's easier to just ask in advance before bidding on something. I was recently disappointed with an eBay purchase that was described used but as being in excellent condition. When I opened it up I saw that somebody had pinched the factory fitted speaker and for some reason had removed the main PCB and lost a retaining screw in the process. The detailing on the loco was also broken off in several places. The dark underside of the loco means the pictures are not particularly useful unless very high res, which invariably they are not. In my case it transpired that the seller had himself bought it second hand and sold it on. DJ that's exactly it. I have seen other sellers indicate that the item is used and then explain in the description that it was just opened to test etc. Returning items from Germany purchased via the mother is a logistics nightmare and quite costly. I may bid on items on Irish and UK eBay and have them delivered to the mother (either because the seller won't ship to Germany or the postage rate is horrendous), to be collected in one go on my next visit home. If a loco turns out to be used it will almost certainly be too late to return it by the time I inspect it unfortunately. Neither seller, nor eBay itself could reasonably be expected to believe that I hadn't just run it myself in the intervening weeks/months. So I prefer to clarify up front what I'm bidding on these days before placing a bid

Any idea of a suitable era for these tanktainers on Irish rails?

Thx. The description says new for all of them, which on eBay should mean, brand new, unopened in box. But the description for at least one of those locomotives says "running perfect". It should be listed as used if it's been opened and run, even if for a few minutes to test it. I've asked the seller to clarify if the locos have been run or not. Awaiting a response.

I already bought a weedspray for the tanks and container for use on 20' flats someday and to repurpose the flats I am considering the spoils too, but don't tell the missus!